As mentioned, digital offers us a new method of metering. By viewing the histogram after a shot, we can see the results, make adjustments and shoot again. A good rule of thumb is to 'expose to the right'...meaning that you want your histogram to be biased to the right, but without clipping (blowing out) the highlight detail.
Back to metering. The basic premise that you need to understand is that the camera's meter is set to give you an exposure for 18% grey (mid tone). It has to be set for something, so that is it. This means that when you meter a scene that is bright, the meter will give you settings to turn that bright scene into a mid tone. Same with a dark scene...the meter always wants to make it middle grey.
Realistically, most scenes will have a mix of tones and the meter reading will give you an exposure value that works well. That's why most people can get by without know anything about metering.
However, to get more accurate results, you can think about the metering and compensate for what the meter is doing. For example, if you are taking a photo with a lot of snow, it will probably be very bright. The camera's meter will want to turn it into mid grey because it doesn't know that it's snow. The result will be that the snow looks grey (underexposed). The solution is for you to add positive exposure compensation. Knowing just how much to add...comes from experience. For snow it might be two stops, give or take.
The same applies for dark scenes...the camera tries to make it grey so you would want to subtract exposure.
That is metering with a reflected light meter (the type in your camera). You could use a hand held incident meter and just meter the light...this is more accurate.