More photos with the 50mm for cc


No longer a newbie, moving up!
Apr 1, 2010
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kansas city
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When I got the chance to try more shots with my 50mm f/8, the model wanted some of the most extreme conditions. It was a sheer challenge to work on crispness of focus, plus the lighting conditions. I intended to shoot at smaller aperature and higher iso so I could get better focus but because went into a deeply shaded walking path I found myself lowering the f number to meter correctly withourt slowing the shutter.This first shot was 3pm with full sun to our backs. I told her to do this she could not squint. She suffered all the way through. We went into the shaded area after the wardrobe change.
1.) Shot around 1/500 at f13 or so and iso at 800 (forgot to lower).

2.) The below shot was done in shade. I was able to work more with the 50mm without the extreme lighting. I believe the focus came out well in this. This was at f2.5 at 1/200. ISO was 800.

3.) f2.5 at 1/250, iso at 800, I think The focus hit the shoulder.

4.) Shot at f2.5, 1/250 with iso at 800

5. f3.5 at 1/80 with iso at 200. Dont remember when I cut it back. I shot in RAW so I recovered this from darkness. Has a vintage 70's look.

6. f2.5 at 1/500 iso at 800
just out of curiosity, why f/13 on #1?
looks like focus was on the tree in #2.
#3 could stand a bit of contrast to make it pop...seems a bit flat right now. the pose is not very flattering for the model, and im not sure how to read the facial expression.
#4 has some decent bokeh in the upper left, but the rest of the shot is out of focus except for the area below the eye cam right.
#5 is an ok shot. theres an odd thing going on with her arm cam right. might be a perspective thing, but its got this weird indent, and then the pointy elbow...did you liquify that area at all?
#6 is ok too. i would consider cloning out the red mark on her arm...i keep noticing it. this one also seems oof.

what is your process for taking a shot? are you focusing then composing?
not sure why these are all so soft...the shutter speed seems adequate on most.
My intention was to get focus correct first by a higher aperature and higher iso. I ended having to open up wider than I wanted when we went into the dark shade.
I locked the focus on the eyes then reframed the shot. Apparently not working well.
#5 is an injury, Ill fill in.
Your 50mm f/1.8 sweet spot is about 5.6.
why are some shot at iso800 and some at 200? 800 and 1/250 is not really needed to shoot a posing can shoot down to 1/60 or lower so you can keep your iso low and noise down
Sorry if I'm mistaken..

oh crap.. i need to learn to read the whole darn thing :)
why are some shot at iso800 and some at 200? 800 and 1/250 is not really needed to shoot a posing can shoot down to 1/60 or lower so you can keep your iso low and noise down
Only the first was shot in daylight, the rest were in deep shade. I intentionally had the iso at 800 so the aperature did not need to be at wide open, I wanted it to be in the 5-7 range but couldnt get it that high without going higher iso. In retrospect I could've used a slower shutter speed that mightve helped me to raise the aperature. Noise is less than a problem to me as to getting the focus at this point and I seem to be missing it with this lens. More practice is in order.
Also I attempted flash in #5 and because of the lit background was the shots ended up blown out.
Unfortunately once I started taking shots I watched the meter more than the settings making sure it was centered..
Some seem a little soft, maybe its just me. None really jump out at me.
I had to try my 50mm 1/8 out again, so I dragged my relunctant wife outside to take shots. My concern is focus.
All shots were at f5.6
Shutter ranged from 1/160th to 1/1250
ISO was 800
Flash on 2 and 3.
I kept iso relatively high to give me a faster shutter and to keep the aperature at 5.6. With regards to the focus, do these work better than those first posted? Concerns with composition, lighting and poses aside.




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I dont understand why you use such high ISO? You are in a shade, not indoor. You have plenty of ambient light. All you need is a little flash on the subject.
It's quite hard to tell in the websized images, 4 and 5 of the above post certainly seem most sharp, I can't quite work out if thanks should be given to the dof for that as well though.

Personally (this is just me) when I use my 50mm 1.8 I find the sweet spot for the sharpness (usually between 5-8, and because it's prime you don't have to worry about the differentiating sharpness at varying focal lengths) and then stick it on aperture priority, as soon as the shutter starts to slow I bump up the iso. At least I know I'm getting the sharp images (unless of course I want to start adding different dof)
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If your shooting in shade you need to use a reflector to bounce light onto her face or use fill flash
If your shooting in shade you need to use a reflector to bounce light onto her face or use fill flash

Now which is better? I'm still fairly new to portrait photography and need to pick up a reflector, but now we have HSS on speedlights is there any need for a reflector unless you're shooting a subject a fair distance back?

Since the primary need for a reflector (well, what I've gathered so far) would be able so one could keep the desired depth of field/sharpness without having to mess that up by changing the shutter speed to suit the cameras sync capabilities. If you're after a softer shadow you could bounce the speedlight off of something, or use a diffuser and stop the speedlight down a fair amount.

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