Thanks for posting results, I was curious as to how your weekend went. Firstly, I only see 2 images, thats ok, there's is more than enough info to comment on. I will comment on both your images first, then I will attempt to go back over my own technique (seems like you got confused with my description). Another handy thing to let people know is the metadata (the information about the shot). Like I put down in my original reply. You can get this from your image handling software, (I use Bridge) like Lightroom, Apeture or even from your camera itself (as long as the images are still on the card). Ok, here goes my comments
Yellow bike
Please correct me if I am wrong!
You have achieved "Motion Blur", which is another effect altogether, but not panning. You would achieve Motion Blur when photographing a train going past you, or light trails from a vehicle at night (set a long exposure, and let your subject blur by while your backgorund is sharp). The camera does not move to achieve this effect.
To pan, you have to actually follow the subject from (in your case), left to right; to streak your background and have a sharp subject, the camera must move on a level plain from left to right, keeping the same speed with your subject. If you happen to go up and down (while panning left to right), you will achieve motion blur again. Even if it is ever so slightly, you will not get a clean subject, that's why it is so important to pan on a level plain (horizon if that term is easier to understand).
The further away from your subject you are, the easier it is (but less effective).
#48
This image is a much better effort, but your shutter speed is obviously too fast. 1/250 would be an educated guess you used. You have consistent blur right though your image, which tells me (from this distance from your subject), you weren't fast enough to freeze everything (wheel motion blur), and you were too fast to seperate your subject from your backgound.
This is the better shot to advance off. You need to slow your shutter speed down.
Technique
You can practice at home. Sit on your front yard grass and practice with cars going by.
- Your subject should remain at roughly the same distance from you while you pan. To explain the pan I posted above, the guy on #279 was about 100' away from me over a distance he travelled of about 60'. I followed him with my camera's viewfinder over the entire distance. I took about 4 or 5 pictures over that distance (I will explain this further shortly). If possible, do this same set up at home with traffic. Making sure, any subject will be at the roughly the same distance over a travelled distance. Follow them from Point A to Point B rotating your upper body.
Settings
As I stated in my original reply, these are my own settings I am comfortable with. Other people may see it differently. You dont have to agree with me, but I will post examples and explain my logic.
ISO - 100. This setting will control the amount of light that hits the sensor. The only time I will consider a higher ISO is when the natural light is fading. When you increase the ISO, you are compensating for fading light to keep your shutter speeds where you want them. In the middle of the day, even mild cloud, 100 is fine.
The #279 example is shown already, middle of the day.
Both posted examples were shot with a Canon 20-70mm f2.8. No flash on either.
This shot was around 7pm, daylight savings, so obviously light is fading, but there is still a little around.
ISO 1600, f2.8, 1/100
This next shot was taken around 9pm. Obviously dark.
ISO 3200, f2.8, 1/40
My point of both these examples is, ISO is for light sensitivity only. As you'll notice, my lens was stopped down to it's widest setting (letting in maximum light possible, if I had of stayed at ISO 100, my shutter speed would have been too slow (even to pan), that is why I had to increase my ISO to bring my shutter speed up to what it was when I captured the image.
I know that wasnt explained exactly right, but I have been on this for about 2 hours. If your shooting with sunny skies, stick with 100. Only change, if the conditions naturally darken, or your in the shade.
Shutter Speed
As someone else said, set to Tv (shutter priority), wind your wheel until the shutter is 1/80. Your apeture will automatically adjust. No point in confusing you with manual settings yet!
AF Mode
A1 Servo. Your camera will continue to refocus while your finger is on the shutter release.
AF Point
Of all your little focus squares you see in the viewfinder, you can highlight any 1 in particular or all of them. My #279 example was the center top AF point I selected. At very minimum, I like to keep the helmet in focus, therefore, thats the focus point I track with.
Drive Mode
I completely disagree with Polymoog and here is the reason why. You should keep your drive in (at minimum), Low Speed Continuous. If you are advanced enough in your technique to capture the pan with single shot, well this whole reply is a waste of my time. You need variety in your shots to understand a hit and a miss. If you run a 2, 3, or even 4 shot sequence (burst), you will see very quickly how important tracking with your AF point is. Secondly (this may not relate to you), when I have a customer who has specified a shot, I want to give myself every chance of capturing it). Yes, cache will take a second to catch up, if your run your maximum fps (frames per second) your body can handle, but it isn't that big a deal. Wait till they come round again for whoever you missed. For the record, I always shoot motorsports in continuous mode (like I said, I am comfortable with my settings, and others are comfortable with theirs).
Location
Pick a spot where your subject will straight line past you.
Talk to the organizers, dont worry with track hands or marshalls, they aren't going to grant you permission to inside.
Well, I think I'm done. I have probably missed some things, but I'm running on empty. So, feel free to add, or disagree! Bottom line is, practice (you dont need to wait until the weekend, roll a ball along a table and shoot that).
If all else fails, find a local pro and have him/her show you physically.
Good Luck
If you want to get a sharp rider and a blurry background, try with about 1/160 sec or even 1/200 to start with, and a suitable ISO and F to give a good exposure. Once you have got the hang of following them so they are in focus, you can test with a slightly slower shutter speed. If you test enough, hopefully you'll get some usable shots 
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