My polariod land camera automatic 100 problem help!!!


TPF Noob!
Oct 19, 2008
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Southern, CA
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OK so I have taken two pictures with it so far, and I know the first one I did wrong, because I took the picture and thought it was developing when it was in the camera and then when I pulled the film out I immediately opened the package thing. I realized what I did wrong and the next picture I took I believe I did it correctly and pulled out the film and let it develop in my hand before ripping open the package thing, but that one didnt come out. The problem was that the 1st pic came out pink and the 2nd came out black. Any idea what is wrong or what to do?

Also the camera's ISO setting is 75 but I'm using the fuji pack film rated at 100 ISO, so what should I do to compensate?
To start with, the proper sequence is:

  1. focus
  2. cock the shutter
  3. take the picture
  4. pull the small white tab
  5. pull the black & yellow tab (the picture itself)
  6. wait the specified processing time
  7. peel the picture off of the packet

Black pictures, of course, indicate no exposure. The most likely cause is either a dead battery or bad/corroded contacts preventing current from getting to the shutter. The shutter on that series of cameras was mechanically operated but electronicly timed. No power means the shutter will trip, but both shutter blades travel at the same time resulting in no exposure.

An easy test is to cover both the lens and the little meter cell beside the lens and test fire the camera (covering the lens will prevent any waste of film) by pressing and holding the red release button for 2-4 seconds. If you hear one "clunk" there's no power going to the shutter, or possible a faulty shutter. With a good battery and properly working shutter you will hear two clicks, one when you fire the shutter and one after a second or so or when you release the shutter release.

The battery is in a compartment in the back. The hinge that serves the film loading door also servers the battery compartment. It snaps open from the end opposite the film exist slot.

To correct for the higher ISO of the Fuji film you may need to turn the lighten/dark control around the lens approximately one dot towards darken. You'll have to experiment to fine tune the adjustment.
I know this is long since dead but I decided to try again. So I put my camera in a darkroom and I heard to clunks, now to be sure this wasn't some
fluke I took out the battery and under the same test only got one clunk. I took two pics in good light and one of a darn lightbulb just to be sure that it has a chance to burn something onto the pic. It was nippy (bout low 60s) so I let them devolop for 3 mins and yet all three came out black.
Are you using Polaroid film? I've had terrible luck with weird things like that happening for the first few shots of each pack. Go ahead and shoot the whole pack to see if you start getting good shots. If it is the film, get some Fuji.
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There's one more "gotcha" possibility. This slider moves the Waterhouse style aperture between two settings. If it's between positions, it might cause your problem.

I know this is long since dead but I decided to try again. So I put my camera in a darkroom and I heard to clunks

The shutter will make clunking noises even if the electronics are dead. Open up the back, point it at a bright light and trip the shutter. You should see a bright flash. Cover up the photocell with your finger and repeat. You should see a very long flash.
The problem may be light leaks. You can get a strong torch and try to shine it through the bellows and see if you see pinholes. I've read somewhere that I UV works best. I've had 2 104 cameras (similar to your 100) and both had this problem, and when through an expensive roll of fp100c to find out.

I didn't bother to fix, you can pick solid body pola's for dirt cheap and they are much more hardy than the bellows type of polas. The colorpack models usually came with glass lens as well.
The problem may be light leaks. ...

Wrong, you're logic is backwards.

Since the positive print was black, there was no exposure; a total absence of light striking the negative. Pin holes or other light leaks would have caused light spots, a washed out print, or a totally white print.
yes you are right, I read it as coming out blank, not black, therefore I made the faulty assumption that they could be light leaks. The problem I had with my 104 cameras were cloudy negatives (like a bad photoshop filter); they were not black rather a pinkish cloudy hue.
The problem may be light leaks. ...

Wrong, you're logic is backwards.

But then where is the dark leaking in from? :lol:

Try covering the light meter cell and taking a photo in full sun; it should be pretty strongly overexposed. If you hear the long double click from the shutter and it still comes out black, then you may have something inside blocking the light path.
I just stumbled across this thread as I just bought a Land Camera 100 on eBay and was having the same trouble. Finding a battery was the first thing I did and the prints still came out black then I followed the advice about listening to the shutter actions. I've discovered the following (after 4 packs of film!). Without any film in, and holding the button down until it finishes doing it's thing - if you point the camera at a light and you hear the shutter open and close quickly and then do the same at a shadowy, dark area and it goes slowly then the shutter and battery and everything is fine. If you look through the back of the body (without any film in obviously) you can see the shutter opening and closing while you do this experiment. If it isn't opening and closing you have a problem. Mine wasn't so I fiddled with the battery terminals and it seemed to come back to life. I think half it was just that no one had used it for years. The second thing I discovered was that if the longer you leave it to develop, the darker it comes out. I was counting 90 seconds and getting black. If you take a snap of your computer monitor or a lamp and then only develop it for say 30 seconds you'll see it comes out. Mine look crap so I'm still experimenting but just thought this might help.

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