ND filter advice

Trigger

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I've got a 67mm variable ND filter with a step-ring for use on my 52mm lens, but not really happy with it. Any advice on these?:

Unique Photo - Search Results for 52mm nd filter

There's quite a price range, but does anyone know of the best bang-for-the-buck?
 
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What are you going to use it for? What density do you need? Usually cheap ND filters will throw color off on an image... the good ones only affect exposure. I usually recommend B+W, or SinghRay... Heliopan is good also...

Much wider selection on Amazon... although I have done business with Unique, and they have excellent service!

Amazon.com: nd filter
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
What are you going to use it for?

The typical long exposure scenes like this one I did last week. (It was very windy, so had trouble keeping the tri-pod still).




$P1030567 - 2.jpg
 
I would recommend getting a high quality ND2 and a ND4. They can be used alone or together for a ND6. That gives you a lot more leeway for exposure. If you need more than that.. than get an ND8. Just get decent quality filters, or you will image quality.

Using the stepup ring with larger filters is nice... that way you don't get vignetting when stacking multiple filters on a WA lens.
 
Using the stepup ring with larger filters is nice... that way you don't get vignetting when stacking multiple filters on a WA lens.

I failed to mention:

With my Panny G3, I have a 20mm 1.7 (which is 46mm); a 14-45 (which is 52mm), and a 100-300 (which is 67mm). In my naivete, I thought it best to buy a 67 ND and use a step-ring to cover the 14-45. But I'm finding that I use the 14-45 for all my L/E shots, so I'm thinking that getting 52 NDs would be best. Does that sound right?

Also, I've been told that it's best to avoid using a fast lens like to 20mm 1.7 for L/E; is that correct?
 
Trigger said:
Also, I've been told that it's best to avoid using a fast lens like to 20mm 1.7 for L/E; is that correct?

Why would someone tell you that? You can stop down a fast prime just like 99% of other lenses.

Also, none of your lenses are really XXmm. They're the focal length that's stamped on the barrel. Don't be concerned with the equivalent field of view on a full frame body. If your panny is your only camera, it doesn't matter what the equivalents are IMO.

I like the first shot you posted btw.
 
Why would someone tell you that? You can stop down a fast prime just like 99% of other lenses.

I don't know, I think I heard it in this video. (I don't expect anyone to watch the whole thing in order to find it).




Also, none of your lenses are really XXmm. They're the focal length that's stamped on the barrel.

I guess I was referring to the dia. size which determines what filter or lens cap fits.
 
Trigger said:
I don't know, I think I heard it in this video. (I don't expect anyone to watch the whole thing in order to find it).

I guess I was referring to the dia. size which determines what filter or lens cap fits.

Oh okay! Duh. My bad. I'm so used to people referring to an equivalent FoV. Disregard that part.

And yeah, I probably won't be watching that video, but there's no reason why you shouldn't use a prime lens. Just stop the aperture down to what you need to be at for the proper exposure.
 
Personally I use the stepping rings. The only time they do not work is when you would need to use the lens hood. But this rarely happens for me, so I use the ring when I am using my screw in filters.
 
Yes, that's what I thought, but I've discovered that my 100-300 lens (200-600 equivalent) never gets used for these shots, so if I do buy a better quality ND filter, I thought it would be best to just get a 52.

Is it not true that it's best to keep the filter as close to the lens glass as possible?
 
Get a larger filter size to accomodate current lenses and more importantly... future.

Spend the money and get a good quality one.... step up rings will cost very little... you want to avoid step downs.

I use 3 stop and a 10 stop... never felt the need for anything else.
 

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