Need Help on Nikon D 300

dkofikyei

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Hi there,
I am a rookie in photography, but guess what, I have been given an awesome gift of a Nikon D 300 Camera. Hmm, I have tried using the camera based on what the product manual recommends.

However, I realize that in most of the photos I take, the background gets into a sharp focus whilst the target is blurred.

I would be elated if anyone could help me with a step by step approach to setting the camera for effective use for three main settings. Sunny day Soccer photography, indoor still usage and soccer photography at night times (under floodlights).

My camera comes with two lenses, 70-300mm (1:4-5.6G) and 18-135mm (1:3.5-5.6G ED).
 
This is because your not getting the autofocus point onto your target. You need to track the target and pan along with it then push the button down half way to get it to AF then when its focused on that hit the shutter. the other thing you can do is use a bigger F number which will give you more of your image in focus so its more fogiving if you miss.
 
Hi there,
I am a rookie in photography, bur guess what, I have been given an awesome gift of a Nikon D 300 Camera. Hmm, I have tried using the camera based on what the product manuel recommends.

However, I realise that in most of the photos I take, the backgroug gets into a sharp focus whilst the target is blured.

I would be elated if anyone could help me with a step by step approach to setting the camera for effective use for thress main settings. Sunny day Soccer photography, indoor still usage and soccer photography at night times (under floodlights).

My camera comes with two lenses, 70-300mm (1:4-5.6G) and 18-135mm (1:3.5-5.6G ED).

Hi dko,

congrats on that D300! That is a mighty fine camera. Now it's up to you to learn how to use it properly.

First order of business is how to get pictures with the subject in focus. That's on pages 22, 47, 48, 49, 51, 52, 62, 63, 66, 67, and 68 of your D300 manual.

Next is "Sunny day Soccer photography": set ISO 200, and check page 109 of your camera's manual.

Then you asked about "indoor still usage": what do you mean "still"? On tripod? Handheld? With available light? With (built-in peanut) flash? Please expand.

And finally "soccer photography at night times (under floodlights)": there is not enough light (although the D300 has a special WB setting for sodium vapour lighting) for shooting sharp photos of moving objects (and subjects), which is what a soccer game is. You need either much, much more (flash) light (like with a BetterBeamer) in order to stop motion at some distance, or you need a tripod and non-moving subjects.

Have fun!
 
Thanks for your response.
what I meant by the "indoor still" was to take shots at indoor programs such as seminars and meetings.

It surely will be hand held since I for now do not have a tripod.

Cheers
 
Thanks for your response.
what I meant by the "indoor still" was to take shots at indoor programs such as seminars and meetings.

It surely will be hand held since I for now do not have a tripod.

Without a tripod you have 2 options: with available light (daylight through windows, or ambient artificial light?), or with flash.

With available light (daylight through windows): set ISO 400, WB to cloudy, shutter speed priority 1/60th or 1/focal length used, whichever is the highest speed, and learn to control your breathing and stance.

With available light (ambient artificial light): set ISO 1600, WB to incandescent or fluorescent (whichever is applicable), shutter speed priority 1/60th or 1/focal length used, whichever is the highest speed, and learn to control your breathing and stance.
You will have to contend with 'noise' due to the high ISO, though.

With flash light: set ISO 400, WB to daylight, shutter speed priority 1/60th or 1/focal length used, whichever is the highest speed, but not exceeding the D300's X-sync speed.

However, with flash your max subject distance will be limited to 12 feet with the peanut flash, to 16 feet with an external flash gun, and to 30/40 feet with a BetterBeamer.

Of course you shoot RAW for max adjustability after the fact (in PP).
 

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