New to Film :)

bhop · Jan 31, 2012

If you wanna go really cheap with basic controls, but good user quality that'll probably last forever, then try to find a Pentax K1000 with 50mm f/1.7 lens.

K1000 users group
Flickr: Pentax K-1000 users and lovers (k1000)

Bertie · Jan 31, 2012

Proteus617 said:
If you're poor, it's gonna be tough buying a good lens for a modern EF mount Canon.

I have a few lens for the 400d which are ef mount.

And thanks im going to look in to the pentax range, seems like a good idea

dxqcanada · Jan 31, 2012

Bertie said:
Even more recently my dad got out his old Minolta XE-1 with some very lovely lens Rokkor f1.4 50mm and a shift lens

So you are saying that you have usage of a Rokkor 50mm f/1.4 and a Rokkor 35mm f/2.8 Shift CA lens ??
The Rokkor Files - 35mm Shoot-out
rokkor shift | eBay

If so, I would get a Minolta body to use those on.

bhop · Jan 31, 2012

Fixed lens rangefinder cameras are also a cheap option.

Canonet QL17 is my favorite of that genre as far as cheap ones go. Yashica Electro 35 has a better lens, but no manual control for the shutter, it's just aperture priority.

dxqcanada · Jan 31, 2012

Minolta manual focus SLRs

Bertie · Jan 31, 2012

dxqcanada said:
Bertie said:

Even more recently my dad got out his old Minolta XE-1 with some very lovely lens Rokkor f1.4 50mm and a shift lens

Click to expand...

So you are saying that you have usage of a Rokkor 50mm f/1.4 and a Rokkor 35mm f/2.8 Shift CA lens ??
The Rokkor Files - 35mm Shoot-out
rokkor shift | eBay

If so, I would get a Minolta body to use those on.

Yes this is correct, however he seems reluctant to let me touch the shift lens ... i can't think why xD

I have just been looking and it would seem sensible to pick up an SRT 101. How ever after doing some brief reading it says something about how it was designed to use a mercury battery and that modern batterys working on a higer voltage, 1.5 V prevent the metering from working correctly. Is this true? has anyone had any experiance with this?

These are some really useful links guys thanks!

Rob

P.S. time to sleep in the uk, will write back when i wake

thanks

dxqcanada · Jan 31, 2012

WeinCell Batteries

Sw1tchFX · Jan 31, 2012

Whatever you choose to get, if you're shooting color negative film, get the pro film, rate it at half the box speed, expose for the shadows, and send it off to Richard Photo Lab to get it done.

If you get cheap fuji superia junk and drop it off at the drug store, guaranteed it will come out like complete garbage and you'll loose all steam to shoot film. THE LAB IS KEY. doesn't matter what the camera is.

When I shoot weddings or portraits professionally, I shoot 90% analog. Trust me, i've tried my fair share of labs to try and cut down costs, and everytime, you get what you pay for.

Fuji Superia 400 @ 400 done at my local Wallgreens (CVS/Rite Aid-type place)

Kodak Ektar 100 from RPL:

Results like the top picture are why I quit shooting film for 4 years, I was too frugal and impatient to send it to a real lab. Results like the bottom are why i've quit shooting digital unless absolutely necessary, you just don't get color like that straight out of camera on digital.

Bertie · Feb 1, 2012

Thanks for the link i think i will give it a try.

@Sw1tchFX
So what is a realatively decent film to start with?

If i were to buy a 200 ISO/ISA film (what is the difference between the two?) i would then tell the camera it was 100 ISO/ISA ... is that correct? Would the pictures then not over expose?

Rob

gsgary · Feb 1, 2012

Loads at Mifsuds and they are a great firm to buy from
Mifsuds Photographic Ltd Film Cameras & Accessories
Mifsuds Photographic Ltd Cameras & Accessories
Mifsuds Photographic Ltd Film Cameras & Accessories
http://www.mifsuds.com/acatalog/Used_Minolta_AF_Film_Cameras.html
http://www.mifsuds.com/acatalog/Used_Minolta_MF_Cameras.html

Arpeggio9 · Feb 1, 2012

Sw1tchFX said:
If you get cheap fuji superia junk and drop it off at the drug store, guaranteed it will come out like complete garbage and you'll loose all steam to shoot film. THE LAB IS KEY. doesn't matter what the camera is.

I agree with you that lab is the key, but fuji superia is pretty decent tho'. I haven't tried much of any better film however I am very pleased with it.

200

400

800

Those were all done at wallgreens/cvs and would probably look better if done at a pro lab. For example, on that 3rd shot, the cut off flower was in the frame on the negative and I took it back to scan again and they just couldn't scan it properly. It would make so much difference on that shot.
So yea, lab is the key.

Bertie · Feb 1, 2012

Cracking photos

how did you get the second one so sharp?

when you get photos developed at a chemist and you get them on cd, do they scan the print or the negative?

Rob

Arpeggio9 · Feb 1, 2012

Bertie said:
Cracking photos how did you get the second one so sharp?

Rob

Thanks... 2nd one was taken with Yashica ML 50 mm lens at f16. Those lenses are pretty sharp. Others taken with yashica MC 70-200 mm lens.

Bertie · Feb 2, 2012

Ok so Ive ordered a Minolta X-300s (this is the point where everyone will go "oooo big mistake") it was fairly cheap but listed as mint condition and refund is available so needless to say Im quite excited for that to arrive.

I will but a cheapo film through to make sure all is working but after that can you guys recommend any film?

Im quite interested in doing some b/w photography ... Ive heard its difficult ... any tips?

Thanks

Rob