Nikkor 10-20 mm f/4.5-5.6G VR or Tokina 11-16 MM f 2.8

Hello guys!

I have an opportunity to buy a used Tokina 11-16 mm f 2.8 lens used (slightly scratched but does not affect the photos) for 300 USD.

Should I buy it? Or should I go for a new Nikkor 10-20 mm f 4.5 with VR for around 440 usd?

I am looking for a lanscape photography lens. Mostly in OK lighting but I would also like to use it to capture some nice sunsets and / or northern lights.

Any tips is greatly appreciated

By the way: I have a Nikon D3300 camera

 

Is the Nikon fully compatible with your camera, those new p lenses have limitations with some bodies.

Obviously the Nikon has better range, it's questionable how often a wide angle is used wide open if you use it as a landscape lens, but maybe would be for low light indoor stuff, depends on your intended main usage

I'd probably go tokina

 

Thanks mate. I think both are compatible with my Nikon D3300. The larger aperture on the Tokina is tempting though. Will not use it indoors Almost exclusively for nature shots

 

F2.8 should be better if you things like the northern lights I would imagine

 

I just pixelpeeped the Tokina -- paint me unimpressed.

 

Hello!

If you want wide (and IMO, wide is not always the best choice for landscape), then get a Nikon wide, preferably a prime.

The Nikon wide zoom should be o.k., even though you really don't need the VR.

A short zoom is just about no value at all, especially since a wide prime will get the shots you want anyway.

A third-party short zoom will not help, even with one more stop of light, which you probably don't need.

This scratch; is it on the front element? A scratched front element on a telephoto lens won't matter much for shots away from the light, but you want to take pictures of the setting sun, so you're going to get flare from that scratch.

This is not the lens you want.

Move along.

 

You did not note in the description of the Tokina if the lens is the II model - that is the one that includes the focus-motor in the lens - the earlier version of the lens required the screw drive of the camera body to focus (something the D3300 does not have). You mentioned $300 and the earlier version often sells for this price while the II version sells for a bit more (although the scratch could be affecting the price).

I would be inclined to go with the new Nikon 10-20mm AF-P lens, I think Nikon did a good job of bringing down the price on this wide angle zoom for the DX series. You pass up the larger aperture of the Tokina, but you get a wider focal range and instant manual focus override.

 

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

Braineack: I did too and I think you're on to something.

Designer: yes, I think that is where the scratch is. Here is a link to photos of the lens I'm considering buying (the Tokina).

I would rather have a Nikon Prime, but they cost like $1810 new which is 3 leagues up unfortunately...

Dave: It's the v2 with the built in focus motor But maybe you're right about the Nikon. Im just worried about the small aperture.. hmmm

 

I'm not sure why but missed that the tokina was scratched. I'd never buy a lens with its glass scratched

 

But aren't many of the used lenses scratched? Maybe scratch is the wrong word, minor defect? Check out the photo if you have the time in my last post, mate. What do you think?

 

I can't really tell from the photo, but you are only talking 140 more for the new Nikon, or indeed wait for a tokina without a defect.

A prime lens will likely not suit your needs. There are very few wide primes that suit a crop Nikon camera. Once you apply the crop factor they are just not that wide.

Maybe try for another tokina, or maybe even a sigma 10-20 f3.5 if the Nikon doesn't float your boat

 

I would look at the Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5 - 4.5 Di II VC HLD for its weather sealing and the optional tap in console and its compatible with your Camera. It seems like a far better lens then both above but it is more expensive though. Other then some indoor work i don't think the tokina is a very useful range at all and IMO I would scratch the tokina right off the list for landscape and not get caught up on the f stop because most people stop down for landscape anyways since you want DOF for landscapes.