Nikon VR effects on autofocus

Blind Bruce

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I have read the articles here and elsewhere about not using VR in some cases. I use my D5100 hand held with a 35-70mm f2.8 zoom lens set for VR. I have autofocus issues with live models in low light situations.
Question: does VR affect autofocus?
73
Bruce in the Peg
 
VR should only be used in under 1/500 shutter speed situations, generally speaking. I think each lens and iteration of VR may be different.

But it also depends upon your hand holding technique
and also upon your Focus Mode and Focus area options and what you focus on.

Might be best if you can provide some examples including full EXIF information.

fyi, I always turn off VR.
and what Nikon 35-70/2.8 lens do you have ? The Nikon 35-70/2.8 lens that I know of that I used to have does NOT have VR and on your camera would require manual focus.
 
Sorry, but I have never heard of any influence of VR on AF.

And astroNikon is correct, I also only know one 35-70/2.8 and thats the AF 35-70mm f2.8 which requires a screwdrive (AF instead of AF-S) and has no image stabilization (no VR for "Vibration Reduction" in the name).
 
Sorry folks. It is a new Nikkor 24-70 f2.8. The autofocus seems irratic in the final picture but is not "hunting" in and out as in too little light. I probably need to refine the camera settings to help this. My only question is could my using my lenses on VR contribute to the erratic autofocus? I have been taking pictures for 70 years now and really a newbie with digital. I will never be a pro as I am now legally blind and in a wheelchair to boot. But I AM having fun:)
 
Question: does VR affect autofocus?
There may be another issue, or perhaps a combination of factors all affecting the AF. As suggested; if you can post an example with full EXIF intact, somebody might be able to help.

Other factors often overlooked are: shallow DOF, Some kind of filter screwed onto the front (more common for beginners, but nevertheless I will mention it).

Also; have a look at where the exact point of focus is in the photo. Could be that your AF selected the nose or ear instead of the eye.
 
With your live models you should be in
"AF-S" Focus Mode
in "Single " Focus Area
and focus on the closest eye.
with the Focus Illuminator turned on, which is a light it turns on to aid focusing in low light.

If you are in Dynamic 9 or anything (or Auto or Scene modes) like that then you are letting the camera select what focus point to use. And normally it likes to pick other things that have more contrast like a wall 10 feet behind a person.

But post a picture or two of the problem with EXIF . That is the EASIEST way of us figuring stuff out.
 
For now, I am using aperature priority with f2.8 to blur the background. Shutter is usually 1/60 or less. ISO shoots to 6400. I may be confusing noise with focus here.
???
Bruce
 
Photographing people using f/2.8, in dim light levels is a recipe for problems. If the ISO in use hits 6,400...and the lens is set to f/2.8, and the shutter speed is in the 1/20 to 1/100 second range, the lighting is obviously dreadfully low.

Again....f/2.8 on models/people, indoors in lower lighting conditions, is a recipe for disaster. The shallowness of the depth of field at f/2.8 leads to so many issues.
 
two word solution

add light
 
In my opinion if the camera has to go to high ISO (above 1000 or so) there is not enough light and if at all possible I need to do something to increase the light. High ISO is a tool to save a scene capture when you just HAVE to get it. IMHO setting ISO to 6400 with fast glass is going to capture the scene but not be a great quality photo.
 
I have read the articles here and elsewhere about not using VR in some cases. I use my D5100 hand held with a 35-70mm f2.8 zoom lens set for VR. I have autofocus issues with live models in low light situations.
Question: does VR affect autofocus?
73
Bruce in the Peg
You have a d5100.
I had a d7000 which was the same sensor if I recall.
The d7000 was good up to ISO 1600 generally before noise crept in.
My d600 is actually good up to 6400.
But I use that to keep shutter speed fast, for the situation.
In low light situations sometimes you just have to use the pop up flash. Use a business card, or paper to bounce/diffuse it.

FYI, we still haven't seen a picture with EXIF to be sure.
 
Yep, photo with EXIF would be the best thing you could do in this thread.
 
The high ISO is the clue, to me.

You said you're shooting at f:2.8. What shutter speed? Ambient light or flash? Are you confusing motion blur with focus blur? If you have anything automatic, i.e. not shooting M and have auto-ISO enabled, then the camera is overriding your intentions.

For example, shooting in A mode so you can force your 2.8 aperture, the camera will pick a shutter speed for auto-exposure, even if you're using a flash. If "correct" exposure is 1/10 second with ISO 6400, then that's what the camera selects. The camera ALWAYS tries to get a good exposure from ambient and use the flash as fill.

If you're not using flash and the light is that low, it's just not going to work, you'll get noise, motion blur, or both.

If you ARE using flash, you need to be in M mode to control the camera's decision-making, and turn off auto-ISO.
 

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