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projected backdrops

JustJazzie

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Long ago I saw a post on here from someone playing with projected packdrops. I can't remember who, and I can't find the post. Does anyone here have experience using them? I'm intrigued by a product called the "light blaster" but also maybe trying to find one that would maybe hook to a computer or something. Any thoughts on projected backgrounds??
 
I'm embarking on something like this and still exploring. Please share if you know anything I'll be please to learn :)


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I saw the Light Blaster used for a shoot on theslantedlens.com's YouTube channel. Thoughts: shutter speed will control the projected background's appearance, and spill light from the lights can also impact the projected background's brightness/look.
 
Yes I saw it too and it's not what I wanted. I want a more controlled background and I don't want to convert images to these big pieces of slides.

The challenge here for me is to have a projected image on a backdrop that could sustain the brightness from the strobes and I need to find a lighting balance ...


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I use 12 in ch x 12 inch gell filters. I'm curious if one printed an image on a 8-1/2 x 11 overhead and flashed it like I do whether that would work. The amount your strobe has a lot to do with it's color, and how far back the BG is from the other flashes. at least from the little experimentation that I"ve done.
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'm finding it really tempting but wondering what gonna be more of a PITA, learning proper green screen, or using this type of projector. So far my attempts at green screen have been sad to say the least. *Sigh*
 
I'm pretty sure I am going to order a light blaster. I'm wondering if I need a projection screen to make it work as a backdrop replacement. Any thoughts on that? My other option would be using my white muslin..

I know a strobe is brighter than a projection light bulb so I am tying to figure out what would photograp best....
 
Until I took a Universal Studios tour 37 years ago, I never knew about the technique of rear projection used in most movies. Nowadays, I see it in every Hollywood movie I watch.

One of the 'tricks' of rear projection is to ensure the 'point of view' is the same for both the projected image and the subject. For instance, if the projected image is shot from curbside looking down the street (let's say the left curb), and the camera is situated to the subjects' left side (your right), everything would seem 'backwards'. In this case, the camera must also be from the 'left curb', or subjects' right side, when facing you.

The same would be true of shadows and sun position.

Or, use a 'generic' image that is shot 'down the middle' and shoot from straight on at the subject or very slightly left or right of center. Think about the image on the wall behind Dave Letterman and the camera position relative to the image and to Dave.

If I were to attempt such a shot, I'd most likely use a projector screen. I just happen to have one from my slide projecting days. Having a computer projector attached to a computer is the preferred method these days. Then have a king-size flat sheet either tacked to the wall so it's very flat, or, use a cheaply built from 2"x3" frame to attach the sheet to, especially if projecting the image from behind the screen.

Perhaps the biggest issue I can envision is shadows from the subject upon the background image. If some outdoor 'mountain view' is used, for example, there wouldn't be any apparent shadows if it was shot with a real mountain as a backdrop, as the shadows would be on the ground that would be below the image the camera sees.
 
Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'm finding it really tempting but wondering what gonna be more of a PITA, learning proper green screen, or using this type of projector. So far my attempts at green screen have been sad to say the least. *Sigh*
A common 'mistake' that I often see/hear people making, is assuming that they need green or blue backdrops to make this happen. Sure, those are the most common chromakey colors but that is probably because they are less common for the costumes & clothing that people will be wearing in front of them.

The most important thing is that the subject is somehow separated from the background and doesn't blend into it. So it could easily be a white, black or grey backdrop...as long as your lighting and exposure are such that there is no blending of subject & background.

And because so many people just start using green or blue etc., they often have to deal with blow back....which is when the subject picks up some of the color of the backdrop. This obviously creates problems when trying to extract the subject from the background. The usual problem is that the subject is simply too close to the backdrop.
 
If you shoot against a background coloured by gels, or a projection system of some sort, you have to keep your subject's lights off the background or the lights will fade/wash out the background.
 

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