Pushing at oddball ISOs: how to adjust time in the developer?

PilafDM

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Hi, all!

So, in the last few months I've either inherited or scored quite cheaply three different cameras. Wow!
I've got them loaded with three different films (the first time I've used two of the three films).
I've gotten about six rolls under my belt in the darkroom, all (but one) with results to be proud of (even doing wonky things like cocktailing developers!).
Because I'm that kind of beginner -- the kind who can't wait to try tricky things rather than mastering fundamentals -- I'm wondering if there's a guideline for pushing the film at non-standard increments?

I've wound up with these three configurations:

  • Minolta XTsi
    • Ilford HP5 (ISO400), shooting at ISO1000
  • Miranda Sensomat RE
    • Rollei Supergraphic 2.1 (ISO25), shooting at ISO100
  • Canon AE-1
    • Rollei Blackbird (ISO100), shooting at ISO450

I know I'm pushing a lot here, but I'm doing so because so fair I haven't been able to achieve a filthy, grainy look -- which is the kind of thing I'm into, sadly.

If it helps, I've also got these three developers at my disposal:
  1. TMAX
  2. D-76
  3. XTOL

So, really, I just want to know how I should adjust my time.
For example, if I developed the HP5 in D-76 stock, the Massive Dev Chart tells me 10.5 minutes at ISO800 and 14 at ISO1600. Should I just assume, then, that, say, 11.5 or 12 minutes would be good enough? Can I hurt anything if it turns out I should have developed 30 seconds less or more?

For extra points: looking at my films and my developers and my ISO settings, do any magic recipes come immediately to mind for anyone? :p

Thank you!

Cheers,
Phil
 
None of yours developers will aid you in getting the grain you desire, all of them are fine or ultra fine grain. Get some Rodinal or even better Polymax T (a paper developer) and without much of pushing you will have very grainy look, especially with HP5+. With both developers grain will be sharp.
 
Times on the Massive Dev Chart, especially for pushing, are only a rough guide so don't worry about 30 seconds. The differences between your technique and that of the person who wrote the time will probably have more effect, so just use it as a starting point and adjust it as you get experience.

As timor suggested, a paper developer will give a good, grainy push when used with film. Try Dektol or PQ Universal. Of the developers you have, D-76 is probably the most likely to give you a grainy look, but use it diluted between 1+1 and 1+3. The more you dilute, the grainier and sharper the film will be. Don't go below about 100 mL of stock D-76 per film when diluting. Trying to get a really grainy look with slow film isn't easy.

By the way, ISO speed really refers to the speed of the film in a special set of circumstances. When you push film those circumstances are not met, so ISO no longer applies but EI (Exposure Index) does. You push HP5+ to EI 1000, not ISO 1000.
 
Is this the sort of thing you are after ?

26 years out of date Tri-x over agitated in Rodinal, if you over agitate with Rodinal it gives you some good grain
img158best-L.jpg
 
Wow, thanks, everyone!
I've considered developing in Dektol. Will do that for sure soon.
And thanks for correcting my ISO/EI blunder.

My main question still stands, though: about how much longer should I leave stuff in the developer if I'm pushing?
 
Is this the sort of thing you are after ?

26 years out of date Tri-x over agitated in Rodinal, if you over agitate with Rodinal it gives you some good grain
img158best-L.jpg

Yeah, this is awesome. Is over-agitation a general grain-inducing technique?
 
Yeah, this is awesome. Is over-agitation a general grain-inducing technique?
Maybe not that general,(it works with 25 years old TriX), usually is used to increase contrast (which works with very old TriX also well), but developing in higher temperature (24-25 C) will increase the grain on regular bases and developers with low quantity of sodium sulfite will help to (thus paper developers). You just might try everything at once.
 

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