Retarded Lighting Question But I Really Need Some Help

[Handoogies]

Hey guys,

So I have been shooting with off camera flash (speedlights) for some time now, and a few things are really stumping me; I realize these are moronic questions to seasoned pros but bear with me please:

1) When I shoot a subject with his/her back close to the backdrop, I get all different kinds of unappealing shadows cast on the backdrop from the strobes. I see many studio setups that place the model no more than a few feet in front of the backdrop, so how do you avoid casting bad shadows on the backdrop?

2) Since I use Speedlights with a remote trigger, I have no 'modeling' lights to pre-gauge the lighting effect. Now these modeling lights on pro strobes, do they stay on for the exposure to add any lighting, or do they shut off during the flash? And how accurate is the ambient modeling light to the actual exposure? I see many studio setups quite well lit from the modeling lights, mine are always in dark ambient conditions. Do pros shoot studio shots with a combination of constant studio lights WITH strobes or strobes only (meaning modeling lights lag off during the flash exposure) or is it usually all lit by the strobes?

I am not getting nice balanced flash results lately; they all look artificial and forced. I am wondering if I need more constant lighting to balance the flash.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[bazooka]

1. It's a function of distance to the background and angle of the light. If the distance is fixed, as your situation seems to be, then the only way to remove the shadow completely is change the angle. Simply make sure that each light can "see" the part of the background that is in the frame.

If you want the shadows but don't want them to be so intense, you can either use another light to fill the background, or you can use a softer (larger with respect to the subject) light, although this will affect how your subject looks.

2. I've never used modeling lights so I can't help you much here. I will say that they are unnecessary. Simply pretend that your speedlights are on all the time and you can visualize what effect they have.

If you want specific help with how your images look, post a couple shots and specifically describe what about them you dislike. I would be happy to help, as I know many others would too.

 

[KmH]

Hey guys,

So I have been shooting with off camera flash (speedlights) for some time now, and a few things are really stumping me; I realize these are moronic questions to seasoned pros but bear with me please:

1) When I shoot a subject with his/her back close to the backdrop, I get all different kinds of unappealing shadows cast on the backdrop from the strobes. I see many studio setups that place the model no more than a few feet in front of the backdrop, so how do you avoid casting bad shadows on the backdrop?

You make the light source apparently larger (modify it) by using an umbrella or a softbox. If you are using an umbrella or a softbox, and still getting hard edged shadows, your light source is to far away (making it apparently smaller), or the light modifier is just way to small.

2) Since I use Speedlights with a remote trigger, I have no 'modeling' lights to pre-gauge the lighting effect. Now these modeling lights on pro strobes, do they stay on for the exposure to add any lighting, or do they shut off during the flash? And how accurate is the ambient modeling light to the actual exposure? I see many studio setups quite well lit from the modeling lights, mine are always in dark ambient conditions. Do pros shoot studio shots with a combination of constant studio lights WITH strobes or strobes only (meaning modeling lights lag off during the flash exposure) or is it usually all lit by the strobes?

Modeling lights only provide a fraction of the light the strobe provides. Modeling lights are only used to gage light position, not exposure. the modeling lights are turned off once the light position has been set. Part of the reason for turning of the modeling lights is to let the subjects eye pupils get bigger again before making the image with strobed light.

Constant lights become part of the ambient light in a scene. Consequently their addition to the light in a scene is controlled, like all the other ambient light in the scene, by the shutter speed. The strobed (flash) light in a scene is controlled by the lens aperture. So mixing continuous and strobed light can be problematic.

 

[PatrickJamesYu]

I'm not a pro but here's my input.

The modeling light is not close the flash engaged exposure.
Not at all.
But it will show you where to place your lights, and can give you an idea of where the shadows fall on the face.

Many professional shoots have a floor light or a back light, and I assume that gets rid of the shadows quite heavily
Other than that, have your lights higher up and pointing more down, so the shadow casts lower.

I'm not sure if my studio flashes' modeling light turn off during flash or not, but it appears to not be bright enough for it to be usable.

 

[Handoogies]

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

[cnutco]

What is your setup?

Camera, light source and quantity, location...

 

[Village Idiot]

Here's a great tutorial

I've moved the blog –> zackarias.com/blog » White Seamless Tutorial :: Part 1 :: Gear & Space

Basically, Zack's look can be done with three lights. That's two on the back ground to expose it properly and kill the shadows and one on the subject. More lights or reflectors will let you add mor depth to the photos if you have more gear to work with.

I believe it's three parts. Read all three of them.