Roar Before The 24 2018

Discussion in 'Photojournalism & Sports Gallery' started by CaboWabo, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. Derrel

    Derrel Mr. Rain Cloud

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    Leave MORE space in front of the car....not centered, but with more room for the car to "move into". This type of placement of a race car within the frame is often critical to the success of many racing images.

    Honestly...I would slooooooow the shutter wayyy down on most of these panning shots, to sublimate the ugly backgrounds so often seen at racetracks. Speeds depend on distance, direct of the car across the frame, and size of the car within the frame.


     
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  2. rosh4u

    rosh4u No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Nice shots. Good Going :)
     
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  3. ac12

    ac12 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Put the autofocus point on the car, and leave plenty of room around the car.
    If you have cars going L>R and L<R, shifting the AF point for each direction will be a PiA, so just use the center AF point.
    I find it too hard to crop fast moving action in the camera.
    So I shoot sports with space around the subject, then crop the image later.
     
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  4. CaboWabo

    CaboWabo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Thanks everyone for the help , I will try all off this at the race itself at the end of the month
     
  5. Braineack

    Braineack Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    You need to get down to 1/40sec
     
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  6. CaboWabo

    CaboWabo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Thanks Braineack , Now do I keep everything else the same to start out with
    F13
    iso 320 or raise or lower that too

    I am trying to find a good starting point

    I was thinking
    F22
    iso 200
    1/40
     
  7. Destin

    Destin Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    You don’t want to be shooting sports at f/22.

    Put the camera in shutter priority (Tv on canon I think?) and set your shutter speed to where you want it. Put your iso down to the minimum native setting 100-200 usually depending on your camera, and let the camera sort out the aperture. If it gives you an aperture that’s really small like f/22 you may consider using an ND filter to get back down to the f/11 range.
     
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  8. Braineack

    Braineack Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    you gotta work your way down, starting at say 1/125 will be good. you will have a keeper rate of about 1%, but when you nail one it's worth it.

    here's some inspiration to depress you; buddy of mine has the BEST panning work I've ever seen:

    ImidgeryByKMidgett

    seriously stunning work.


    here's the last time I went out, doesnt hold a candle: Sahlen's Six Hours of The Glen
     
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  9. CaboWabo

    CaboWabo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Thanks for the help Destin I will listen and not shoot at F22
    And Braineack than thank you that is not depressing at all , in fact it makes me wanna work harder to get to where he is and yours is just as good imo

    And thanks again for all your guys help
     
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  10. CaboWabo

    CaboWabo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    How should my auto focus be set for racing , right now its set at AF-C and at auto area

    And how should the metering be set right its set at right now its set at Matrix

    The camera is a D90 with a NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4-5.6G lens

    Thanks to all that are helping me without all the help I think I would have just giving up
     
  11. Braineack

    Braineack Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    go manual mode, meter every now and again.

    with your camera, i would use single point giving the other options of dynamic or auto area.

    usually i figure out where im going to track the car -- i tend to use a focus spot towards the edge and track along a headlight of the car (helps with framing), then as the car is moving along i try to match the speed, using BBF, then trigger a shot or two when it's where I want it. dont spray and pray.
     
  12. ac12

    ac12 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    AF-C is good.

    I generally use center point AF with D9.
    Auto area modes like 3D can be tricky. RTFM. Some will follow the subject, others will do "closest subject." You also need to practice with area modes, as they may behave different than you think.

    Matrix metering is generally fine. BUT, you need to look at the scene. If you have a BRIGHT or DARK background, it can fool the meter into under exposing or over exposing the scene. Then you need to look at using either center weight, spot or manual. If the lighting is not changing, like clouds hiding the sun, you can set to manual and leave it. Think of the "Sunny 16 rule."
     

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