Self Portrait - Learning Lighting

[smoke665]

I picked up a Sekonic L-308S-U light meter to get a more accurate exposure, as well as play around with key/fill ratios

Isn't this easier then guessing? It's like trying to read a book in a dark room and then turning on a light. I don't think its unusual for a meter to be off slightly, mine is just a tad under. Some of the more expensive models have a calibration feature, but I don't think the 308 does. I just automatically compensate in my head. I also use the 3 shot bracket method (over, on, under) to dial in the exposure, as it can also be a matter of preference.

In following your thread I can see the improvements as you learn and adjust. Very interesting to follow.

 

[adamhiram]

Isn't this easier then guessing?

I feel silly for waiting 5 years to finally pick one up! 30 minutes to setup gear, and 2 minutes to dial in 3 flashes. I'm still on the fence whether this is slightly overexposed, or if it's just different than how I would normally edit, but I think I'm happy with the final product. I also tend to like quite a bit of contrast in my editing, although I'm not sure that is quite as appropriate in this type of shot. I would definitely be curious to hear what others think, and where to go from here to keep improving. Thanks for the ongoing feedback!

 

[smoke665]

I feel silly for waiting 5 years to finally pick one up! 30 minutes to setup gear, and 2 minutes to dial in 3 flashes. I'

I know that feeling. Dialing in one flash by eye is doable, but add multiple units and it becomes a nightmare.

I've really enjoyed reading about your journey. Viewing you images and details has given me some ideas on lighting I also want to try. As to editing post my personal observation is that knowing what constitutes the basics of a solid exposure is needed before you can make a determination on the edit choices. Otherwise like the lightmeter, it's just a guess.

 

[Derrel]

Flash meter, FTW! I like the second of the three shots shown here, as to the exposure and flash to fill ratio. Keep on with this, you're having fun and learning!

 

[adamhiram]

I've really enjoyed reading about your journey. Viewing you images and details has given me some ideas on lighting I also want to try.

Thank you, and I definitely appreciate the feedback! Your Christmas Angel shoot was one of the things that inspired me to go beyond a single light and learn more about portrait photography, and if memory serves me right, we've had a lot of similar questions about catch lights and gray card/whitebalance issues.

 

[mrca]

Adam, I commented on another of your posts and you are working hard at progressing. Good job. I recommended a meter in another post and you didn't ask the usual questions, dome in or our, point at the lights or the camera. Here's something you won't here many places. In studio, pointing the dome in at a particular light will work since you can turn off the fill for example. Outside, how do you turn off the sun to get a reading of the strobe? You can't. Pointing the dome at the individual lights to measure the ratio is the SOURCE METHOD. However, out doors as indoors when you have the main and fill on for the shot, the fill overlaps and adds to the area illuminated by the main. The ADDITIVE METHOD takes that into consideration. You can use the same method inside and outside. First take a reading from the fill side dome out pointed to the camera. Then take a reading from the area on the main side where both lights overlap with dome pointed to the camera and both lights on. Adjust the main to get the desired ratio/difference. You set your camera to the additive reading from the main side. Find the ratio you like and start there in the future. The classic 3:1 ratio taken by the source method is 1 2/3 additive so ou might just start with 2 stops and adjust. I like being able to shoot at particular apertures so if I want to shoot at say f/11 with a 3:1 ratio, , I set my fill 2 stops under then just power the main to f/11 and I have the aperture I desire. Now, outside, you meter the ambient on the shadow side with the main strobe off, then power up the strobe and take readings from the additive area to give you that ratio you like. Also, if you want to use the strobe as fill, say 1 stop under, look for the percentage strobe contribution to ambient reading that Sekonic's give. A stop is half or double the amount of light, so that means the main gives one stop, ie 2 units of light and the fill 1 unit, half as much. That is 1 unit of fill from the strobe of 3 total units or 1/3. Look for about 30% flash contribution. As for accents and hair lights measure pointing at the light. Hope that helps.