Set ups?

[molested_cow]

I am new to macro, just for the AF-S 105mm recently. Immediately I ran into a bunch of challenges that I need to learn to over come.
I take outdoor shots, in the natural environment of my subjects, usually frogs, bugs, lizards, hermit crabs etc. Basically, whatever I can find. Sometimes flowers too.
Here are some things I find difficult to over come.

1. Bugs move around, can't get short enough shutter speed with the aperture(DOF) that I want to work at.
2. Even when the bug isn't moving (eg.spider on a web), the wind causes to swing meaning I can't get a still shot.
3. It's really hard to not spook these creatures trying to get close enough. All but frogs and the dead.

Basically, what I lack is adequate light source, especially when it's sunset that these creatures come out.

So do you guys all shoot outdoors? How do you create enough lighting for still shots of moving subjects, especially with aperture settings like F25? How do you not spook your subjects yet being able to set up a tripod or something to capture the shot?

Any photo of your set up by chance?

Thanks!

 

[sm4him]

FLASH!!

I'm pretty new to macro as well...okay, I'm VERY new to it. But what I've learned so far that has vastly improved my results:

1. USE flash. Diffused flash if possible. I plan to buy a flash bracket to get the flash off the camera for macro and a softbox, but in the meantime, I just made my own diffuser and it's working pretty well. It will help not just with the lighting at sunset issue, but with the motion issue.
2. Good luck with that. Seriously, I live in the valley at the foothill of the Smoky Mountains. There is almost ALWAYS wind to deal with here. You just learn to time your shots. Go ahead and get your settings and your focus right on a couple of test shots, then WAIT...when the wind dies down, and the flower/critter gets still for a second, SNAP.
3. Maybe there are some "bug whisperers" out there who know how to get the critters to sit still for them, but here's what I do: I start shooting further back than I'd really like and then slowly move up on the critter. That way, if I do spook them, I may have at least gotten something usable even if it's further away than I'd like. But--and this is in my purely unscientific, unresearched opinion--I also think that sometimes I'm able to get closer to the insect this way, because by the time I've gotten up as close as I wanted they've gotten used to that big black object being there.

I don't use a tripod on insect macro by the way--first of all, because I only had a cheapo one and I lost even that. But also because by the time you get a tripod set up the insect is going to move somewhere else. I just brace as best I can and try not to breathe!

That's MY advice. It's worth almost half what you paid for it.

 

[molested_cow]

When I use the tripod, I use the mirror up mode to avoid any vibration, since the shutter speed gets quite slow sometimes.

I have LED light(the type that you wear on the forehead, which is excellent cus I can just tie it to the lens), but it has only one intensity setting and often creates harsh lighting. Furthermore, the camera doesn't seem to know how to color balance white LED lights.

 

[Dracaena]

Yeah, a good flash with a diffuser. And f 25 is gonna lead to decreased image quality, if you want a bigger DOF don't go for f 25, but stack images.

 

[molested_cow]

If I can afford to stack images, I wouldn't be worrying about getting blurred shots.

 

[sm4him]

I have yet to do any focus stacking, although I'm going to give it a go, as soon as I get a tripod.

But, you CAN achieve reasonable results handheld, with flash. And patience. LOTS of patience.
For example:


assassinbugwithladybug_0233 by sm4him, on Flickr

Not saying that's a great shot, but it's one of MY best so far, and I've only been using a macro lens for a few weeks now.

 

[jriepe]

My lighting system for macro is a flash bracket with two arms that places one SB600 on each side of the lens. I use the pull down diffuser built into the flash plus a small dome diffuser that is made to fit over the flash units. These flash units are triggered by the camera's built in flash in commander mode. I shoot at f/16 & f/18 99% of the time with a shutter speed of 1/200sec. I live in the Chicago area "the windy city" and calm days are extremely rare. When shooting this way press the shutter button immediately without hesitation when precise focus is attained because most times that precise focus will only be for a split second. By the way Sharon nice shot that you posted.

Jerry

 

[Buckster]

And f 25 is gonna lead to decreased image quality, if you want a bigger DOF don't go for f 25, but stack images.

That's not necessarily true. It depends on the lens. My Sigma 180mm macro lens is at its very sharpest at f/22. I tested it extensively when I got it to determine that. I thus choose to shoot macros with it pretty much exclusively at f/22 because that's how I can get the VERY BEST IQ from it.

Here's how I deal with lighting macros when bug hunting in the field at f/22:

 

[TheFantasticG]

1. Bugs move around, can't get short enough shutter speed with the aperture(DOF) that I want to work at.

Without flash, no wind, and a non-moving subject that is always going to be the case.

2. Even when the bug isn't moving (eg.spider on a web), the wind causes to swing meaning I can't get a still shot.

You will learn to loathe the wind like many of us do.

3. It's really hard to not spook these creatures trying to get close enough. All but frogs and the dead.

You have to up your ninja game.

Basically, what I lack is adequate light source, especially when it's sunset that these creatures come out.

So do you guys all shoot outdoors?

No. I shoot some studio as well. I catch the bugs, let them sit in my 65F studio for a hour or two, then place them ever so gingerly on a plant I have set up infront of some lights. A dead/damaged bug is no good to me in the studio or outdoors because in my favorite subjects you can tell in the eyes when they are lifeless and if they are dead/damaged they can't replicate!

How do you create enough lighting for still shots of moving subjects, especially with aperture settings like F25?

I don't shoot more than F16, if I can help it. Something like a bug in flight needs lots of light for that and high speed sync ain't going to cut it. You basically have to use OCF with a SB-600 or better to that affect. The smaller SBs don't put out enough light to do that when the subject is more than a few feet away from the lens.

How do you not spook your subjects yet being able to set up a tripod or something to capture the shot?

Ninja skills. Plain and simple. How is your sneaky-sneaky level? If the bugs are getting spooked before you're close enough to take the shot, you need to up your game. You also need to learn about the subject you're shooting. Learn the habits of the bugs and incorporate that into your sneakiness. If you don't, you'll never get in close enough.

Any photo of your set up by chance?

I will later.

Thanks!

See my answers in bold.

 

[TheFantasticG]

I'm working on making a better diffuser for the R1 system.

 

[orionmystery]

Mine:

For full flash, 40D, MP-E65, MT-24EX twin flash and DIY concave diffuser:

MT24EX concave diffuser quick update | Up Close with Nature


new diffuser cropped by Kurt (orionmystery.blogspot.com), on Flickr

Sample:

Dragonfly portrait...IMG_1477 copy by Kurt (orionmystery.blogspot.com), on Flickr

For natural light shot: 40D, Sigma 150mm + Kenko 1.4x teleconverter, with or without tripod:

Tips on shooting with natural light | Up Close with Nature

Sample:


IMG_1229 copy by Kurt (orionmystery.blogspot.com), on Flickr

 

[molested_cow]

Thanks people! I guess I will have to find a way to light up the subject with the right diffusion. I don't have that much to work with now, but I will try some DIY ideas for now.

 

[sm4him]

Thanks people! I guess I will have to find a way to light up the subject with the right diffusion. I don't have that much to work with now, but I will try some DIY ideas for now.

Yeah, I'd LOVE to have the kind of setup that Buckster, FantasticG and orionmystery have, but I don't. Not yet. And on a limited budget that also needs a tripod, it may be a while before I get those kinds of setups.
And you'll definitely get better results with those kinds of setups.

But I posted the image I did to demonstrate that you CAN achieve at least reasonably decent results without spending a fortune.

Here's my "setup," if you can even call it that (*crosses fingers and hopes this works, never having uploaded directly to TPF instead of through Flickr*):

Ignore the crappy IQ; it was taken with my P&S hurriedly, on my way out the door this morning.

All I have is my little Nikon D5100, a Tokina 100mm macro, and a Yongnuo 560 flash. I made the diffuser out of a plastic storage container that I'd lost the lid to and then attached some tissue paper with a rubber band.
I DO also have a light stand and wireless triggers that I can use to take the flash off camera for florals and things that will wait while I set up, but for insects, I really have no choice right now but to leave the flash on camera. A bracket and maybe another flash is next on my list...

But, the above setup is what I did the assassin bug photo with and all of my other insect macros (see my Flickr page if you're interested). I've had this lens for less than a month now, and with nothing more than this simple setup have managed to go from awful to results to at least decent ones (okay...with nothing but this simple setup AND some invaluable assistance from TPF members!).

 

[sm4him]

My lighting system for macro is a flash bracket with two arms that places one SB600 on each side of the lens. I use the pull down diffuser built into the flash plus a small dome diffuser that is made to fit over the flash units. These flash units are triggered by the camera's built in flash in commander mode. I shoot at f/16 & f/18 99% of the time with a shutter speed of 1/200sec. I live in the Chicago area "the windy city" and calm days are extremely rare. When shooting this way press the shutter button immediately without hesitation when precise focus is attained because most times that precise focus will only be for a split second. By the way Sharon nice shot that you posted.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry!
Your setup sounds like what I'm about to get, as soon as I can spring for that bracket and an extra flash! Well, I'm using Yongnuo flashes, but still...

Oh, and to the OP...I use anywhere between f16 to f32, but 90% of the time, I'm OVER f22 on my macro shots, with a Tokina 100mm.

 

[jriepe]

A few months ago or so someone posted a link to a site showing where someone had used a Pringles potato chip container attached to the built in flash. The container was attached also to the lens and extended to the end of the lens. A paper towel was attached over the end of the container for diffusion. When I had my 90mm lens I tried it just for fun and it actually worked quite well. So that is a very inexpensive way to start out. Very simple setup that actually works. Have your flash in manual mode and adjust it according to how much light is needed.

Jerry