Shooting 6x6

[MattCReynolds]

Hey peeps,

I've recently made the switch into shooting 6x6 120 film.
I've been developing for years in 35mm, etc, and I can get great results technically and tonally, etc.

My problem lies with seeing in squares.
The switch was exciting at first, but I'm kind of in a slump. I just keep ending up with these very mechanically composed photographs.
As a note, I'm also shooting through a TLR (Mamiya C330), maybe that influences as well. I've been shooting Holga stuff for years without this problem.

Anyway, what do you guys do to break out in a new format? Am I thinking too much?

Cheers,
- Matt

 

[tirediron]

Hence the reason I shoot with a Mamiya AFD. I cannot think square. I recently passed up a terrific deal on a HUGE collection of Hasselblad gear because of this. If you find the answer, let me know!

 

[c.cloudwalker]

I had no problem learning to shoot square. I actually love it and it actually fit nicely with a lot of my work with and for musicians.

Unfortunately, that means I can't really help you except to say that I don't think the camera itself makes any difference and that, yes, maybe you are thinking too much.

The image is square, stop thinking about it. Just shoot.

But I've known plenty of photogs who, like tirediron, didn't know what to do with the square. And I never understood the problem

 

[Christie Photo]

Am I thinking too much?

You probably are.

The one thing you'll have to decide is the shape of the final print. Good ol' Kodak pretty much decided this for the bulk of retail photography. They make 8x10 paper. Shooting portraits, you can expect you client to ask for an 8x10. So, when shooting 35mm, you had to consider this when making the exposure as some of the image would be cropped from each end of the negative. It follows that, when shooting portraits with a 6x6 format camera, you have to foresee the cropping and remember to allow for this when shooting.

Now.... since you're shooting film, I suspect you'll not be shooting retail portrait photography. That means YOU are the one that has to rid yourself of preconceived shapes and sizes. Just as there is no need to fill a sheet of paper when printing, there is no need to use every bit of the square negative when shooting. Just remember that the shape of your image is just one more component of composition. You can elect to use any shape pallet you wish. You're the artist.

My favorite way to work was to drop a grid into the finder. You can make one yourself using any simple drawing program and printing on transparent material.

I hope this helps.

-Pete

 

[benhasajeep]

I cheat, I throw on a 4.5x6 back or even a 35mm back.

But just what the others are alluding too. Just because the view is square, doesn't mean the end product has to be square. Just like digital photo's the size of the 6x6 frame leads to lots of room for cropping. Just back up some for a wider view / change lens, and take the pic. Will be able to do any shape of end product that you want from that. It may be square but you don't have to think square.

 

[Pgeobc]

Where possible, I fit all my cameras with a grid-type screen. Conveniently, these allow aligning major objects at thirds (well, usually).

 

[Mike_E]

Get a piece of cardboard, cut a square hole in it, paint it black and then walk around looking through it.

This works for 6X6, 5X7, 8X10 or whatever just adjust the cutout to match the format.

 

[djacobox372]

One solution is to take some gaffers tape and mask off the focusing screen to 6x4.5.