Snow & Sunlight Practice

At least some of the issue with the exposure is the angle you're facing the sun. There's lens flare upper right and I can tell the way the shadows are going... if you're facing that much toward the sun, try standing where you can get the sun behind a tree trunk, sometimes that works. Or wait til the sun is at a different angle, or move around to get it from a different angle.

The long shadows on the snow are interesting but could have worked better in the composition if they were in the frame more and not so cut off.
Thanks for the composition hints.

I was probably trying to do too much at once. I wanted to get all the snow effects--the overall brightness of it, the snow everywhere, and the shadows, too. So my framing was a compromise.

I could have moved about 25-30 feet west, which probably would've solved the problem with the angle of the sun, but then I wouldn't have gotten the barn door in.

I may try just the shadows on the snow tomorrow... if it really is sunny and if the local wildlife continues to leave it undisturbed.
 
On the filter front.

Do you think they really put as much effort making sure the filter glass is as optically perfect as a good lens? If the answer is no, then the only time you could conceivably justify using one is in really extreme conditions such as desert/beach sand or salt water, otherwise you're just robbing IQ.

 
On the filter front.

Do you think they really put as much effort making sure the filter glass is as optically perfect as a good lens?
If they claim they do, I assume they do until proven otherwise.

Mind you: I'm not talking about $25 filters. ProMaster HGX filters cost more in the range of $70 to over $100 for sizes in the range of, say, 49mm to 72mm. As I've mentioned before: These things are remarkably clear when clean--no matter at which angle you examine them or the light.


Now that is a real eye-opener. So much for the "protection" angle.

Though his procedure as a little >< broken when he tests lenses and filters the way he did. As you are probably aware from having tried to drive something home or hammer something loose: If the hammer isn't able to deliver its striking force to the object, if some of that force is absorbed by something elastic, it's not nearly as effective. He's testing filters resting on a piece of steel. He's testing lenses resting on a stack of plastic, metal framing/casing, gearing mechanisms, etc.

That's just a nit, though. I think he made his point.

Thanks for posting that.
 
In your next test, try just holding the filter in front of the lens so that it is half on and half off so you can see in the same picture if there is any difference.

The color fringing that you’re seeing is it CA?


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In your next test, try just holding the filter in front of the lens so that it is half on and half off so you can see in the same picture if there is any difference.
I've been able to take multiple photos under the same conditions, using multiple apertures, shutter speeds and ISO settings, with and without the filter. I'm satisfied that at least the filters I'm using introduce no degradation in IQ.

The color fringing that you’re seeing is it CA?
Yes. It is a known issue with the lens I used under about 24mm or so.

As a result of that I've since bumped the priority of a good landscape lens. I'm thinking probably the Canon Lens EF-s 10-18mm IS STM. (I expect to stay with APS-C sensors.)
 

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