If you can get photos of springtails nothing can stop you now!
I think the key difference is that with insects the situation often defines the photo. Composition is important, but many times its not as important as not disturbing the subject; as landing the focus in the right place etc... Those are critical with insects because they are the most difficult aspects and, if they fail, the rest of the photo - any composition - fails automatically.
Now with a snowdrop its a lot easier technically speaking. You've a bigger, easier to see subject that is not moving and won't go away so you can spend 1 min or 100 mins taking photos and it wont' fly/spring/leap/scuttle/slither away.
That said I think for you what its doing is highlighting a few weakpoints in your method that living wildlife subjects might be masking.
1) Composition. Flowers are all about this because they are so tame a subject the compositional standard goes up. Consider your angles, your depth of field; background and subject. Leading lines; rule of thirds; golden circle; etc... these are all things to consider (and many more) as well as how you are setting up your shot. Experiment and try different angles.
2) Exposure. The whites are all important because its the key part of the subject and will be quite dominating. Your shot above looks like the whites might be blown and ,at the very least, are not showing much of their texture nor detail. Shift into manual exposure (the subject isn't running off) and vary the shutterspeed/ISO as needs to try and get an exposure that works best. If you're not already, use the camera histogram to avoid overexposure when you review the photos and adjust for the next shot*
3) Depth of field. DON'T fall into the trap that because its macro you must use a small aperture (big f number) like f16. f2.8 and every aperture is valid for your creative experiments. You might well use a really wide aperture (small f number) and have a very thin depth of field and a very blurry background; or you could go the opposite or any variation you wish. Basically its again allowing yourself to experiment and try out new things and new ideas with regard to composition and what you can do.
*check your camera manual for how to enable the histogram display in photo review. Note that its a simple but very powerful tool that will show you where underexposure values are for the whole photo (bars on the fully left) and overexposure (on the right side) as well as where on the photo the overexposure is located (it will blink white and black on and off).