Soccer

[lizheaemma]

Wanted to see what my new body could do.
Artificial turf reflects light and.... I'm not sure how I feel about it.
Definitely has some challenges.

Need to set up my camera better for me..
Lots of fun!
Liking my D750
C&C welcomed and appreciated, but I understand that I posted far to many images to make that practical!
Exposures are all over, I was playing around a lot with settings... I should fix them.


1.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0646 by Ali, on Flickr

2.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0631 by Ali, on Flickr

3.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0603 by Ali, on Flickr

4.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0542 by Ali, on Flickr

5.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0494 by Ali, on Flickr

6.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0467 by Ali, on Flickr

7.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0465 by Ali, on Flickr

8.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0394 by Ali, on Flickr

9.
HSsoccer 9May15 ap 0580 by Ali, on Flickr

 

[Milky]

2. is my favorite on this lot.

 

[BrickHouse]

Glad you're liking your D750! You may want to work on timing a little more. These are very close but I think what could make them a little better is trying to fire your shot closer to the point of impact so that it's not just floating people or floating balls. I think it helps convey more sense of the action to have the ball closer to the foot or head, etc.

 

[beagle100]

Wanted to see what my new body could do.
Artificial turf reflects light and.... I'm not sure how I feel about it.
Definitely has some challenges.

Need to set up my camera better for me..
Lots of fun!
Liking my D750
C&C welcomed and appreciated, but I understand that I posted far to many images to make that practical!
Exposures are all over, I was playing around a lot with settings... I should fix them.


1.ckr

yes, exposure and settings are all over the place!

For soccer and other field sports I generally use evaluative metering and with least 1/2500 shutter speed. Also like the other poster mentioned you need to crop tighter with the ball closer to the players and action

e,g,
(on a Canon 60D)

 

[Big Mike]

Artificial turf reflects light and.... I'm not sure how I feel about it.

Yes, the turf is reflecting the bright overcast sky. It might look better on a clear day, but it might also take on a bit of the blue sky color and shooting in direct sunlight wouldn't be great either.

You might try a polarizing filter. It would rob some light, which would mean using a higher ISO or slower shutter speed, but it may take some of the glare off of the field.

Setting your exposure in a situation like this, is probably a lot easier that you're making it. They key is to realize that the lighting is probably very consistent anywhere on the field.
So once you get your exposure set where you want it, you shouldn't have to change it....you would want to lock it.
That is basically what manual mode is, a way to keep your exposure settings locked.

Whether in manual or any auto/priority mode, the camera reads the light that is reflected off of the scene, not the light that is falling (incident light). The problem with this, is that the reflected light will change based on what happens to be in front of the lens and what metering mode you are on. This is why you will end up with exposures that are all over the map. If your shot has more or less, sky...more or less reflection off the field, more or less player or background etc......the metering may change, which will change your exposure (in any auto mode).

So what I would do in a situation like this, is to take a few test shots in manual mode and see what gives me the best exposure for the players. You could use a grey card etc.

Once you have those settings in manual mode, your 'correct' exposure is basically locked in...all you have to do is focus and shoot. You may have to make adjustments, but they should be minor. Overall, this should keep your shots much more consistent, which looks and feels better but also makes processing/editing them much faster.

 

[Gary A.]

Watch your horizons and your timing. Too much distance in most your images between ball and player. That is all a matter of timing ... more practice = better timing.

 

[lizheaemma]

Glad you're liking your D750! You may want to work on timing a little more. These are very close but I think what could make them a little better is trying to fire your shot closer to the point of impact so that it's not just floating people or floating balls. I think it helps convey more sense of the action to have the ball closer to the foot or head, etc.

Definitely need to shoot more soccer, I generally shoot hockey and football and the moment is definitely different. Good feedback, I will definitely take that into account next time I shoot soccer.

Wanted to see what my new body could do.
Artificial turf reflects light and.... I'm not sure how I feel about it.
Definitely has some challenges.


1.ckr

yes, exposure and settings are all over the place!

For soccer and other field sports I generally use evaluative metering and with least 1/2500 shutter speed. Also like the other poster mentioned you need to crop tighter with the ball closer to the players and action.

I generally don't get the opportunity to push my shutter speed that high, football is always in the evenings and hockey indoors! I will push that more. Way more!

I admit I was playing, new camera syndrome, though close to my D610 it had some new bells and whistles. I wasn't counting on any of the shots for the paper as I already had my sports pics, so I messing with settings... Seeing how far I could push things.

Artificial turf reflects light and.... I'm not sure how I feel about it.

Yes, the turf is reflecting the bright overcast sky. It might look better on a clear day, but it might also take on a bit of the blue sky color and shooting in direct sunlight wouldn't be great either.

You might try a polarizing filter. It would rob some light, which would mean using a higher ISO or slower shutter speed, but it may take some of the glare off of the field.

Setting your exposure in a situation like this, is probably a lot easier that you're making it. They key is to realize that the lighting is probably very consistent anywhere on the field.
So once you get your exposure set where you want it, you shouldn't have to change it....you would want to lock it.
That is basically what manual mode is, a way to keep your exposure settings locked.

Whether in manual or any auto/priority mode, the camera reads the light that is reflected off of the scene, not the light that is falling (incident light). The problem with this, is that the reflected light will change based on what happens to be in front of the lens and what metering mode you are on. This is why you will end up with exposures that are all over the map. If your shot has more or less, sky...more or less reflection off the field, more or less player or background etc......the metering may change, which will change your exposure (in any auto mode).

So what I would do in a situation like this, is to take a few test shots in manual mode and see what gives me the best exposure for the players. You could use a grey card etc.

Once you have those settings in manual mode, your 'correct' exposure is basically locked in...all you have to do is focus and shoot. You may have to make adjustments, but they should be minor. Overall, this should keep your shots much more consistent, which looks and feels better but also makes processing/editing them much faster.

Nice to see that you are still around, I remember you from here over ten years ago! I want to get more active!

I had the Cir-pol on, but wasn't really loving the results, so I took it back off again!

I normally set my exposure and leave it, but... I was playing around, and I had shifting cloud cover, one minute it would be sunny and the next it was overcast!

I never shoot in auto.

All good points! All taken!