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Diffusion in front of the lens is not the same as re-arranging pixels, after the fact. Many diffusers spill highlights over and into neighboring mid-tone and shadow areas, and as a result, change the image that the sensor actually records. Again...NOT the same thing as dicking around in post-production and re-arreanging pixels. But, you probably realize that already. There are many younger shooters who have never used ANY diffusion filters or screens of any kind, and they will tell you "you can do it in software." Yeah. Uh-huh. Sorry, but "close" or "sorta' like, but not really the same" is not an option if you know what you want.

If all you have is ViewNX and Gimp, you'd probably really enjoy having something simple, yet very efficient and easily applicable, like Lightroom 5. The cost is minimal, and yet the benefits of it are high. Speed, ease of use, and the number of Lightroom pre-sets that are available would make the purchase VERY worth the money, and the time needed to learn how to use LR. I am gonna' guess that you're not yet in need of "pixel-level" editing and merging of multiple images, extensive layer work, and so on, and are more focused on getting things right, in-camera, to a greater degree than many newcomers, so, again, I think Lightroom would be a great application software for you to get.

Derrel, when I say I suffer from OCD... I'm not joking, have had Obsessive Compulsive Disorder since before they had a name for it. The point of my telling you this is that I research everything and anything that catches my attention, editing software is no exception and LR is in fact the software I'm compelled to buy. I'm having a bit of a fit with the transition from analog to digital photography, at times I think I'd have been better off buying a 5X7 field camera.
 
Derrel, when I say I suffer from OCD... I'm not joking, have had Obsessive Compulsive Disorder since before they had a name for it. The point of my telling you this is that I research everything and anything that catches my attention, editing software is no exception and LR is in fact the software I'm compelled to buy. I'm having a bit of a fit with the transition from analog to digital photography, at times I think I'd have been better off buying a 5X7 field camera.
I bought a 5x7 field camera about a month after I bought my most recent version of photoshop. Who says you can't go down both paths?
 
Newtricks, First off, welcome to TPF!! I think there's plenty of common ground between conventional, silver-based, analog photography and modern, digital imaging. The major difference between analog photography was illustrated well in a wonderful essay written several years ago by the noted Leica author, Irwin Puts, in his previous web site. He's updated the site, which is now at http://www.imx.nl/photo/

Anyway, Irwin's contention was that analogue work focused on creating a permanent image, one fixed in an emulsion, with an actual, tangible, viewable form. A negative, or a transparency, let's just say. Something actual, tangible, viewable by the human eye in its most basic, stored form. Digital imaging on the other hand, is merely pixels, arranged so that only a computer or other electronic device, can create an image...an image which has no one, single form, but which can be altered easily, readily, in hundreds of thousands of ways.

To a lot of younger people, the idea that anybody might want to actually try and create a fixed, finite artistic vision is a strange concept. They cannot imagine being without 24/7 cell phone service either, or not having access to 500 cable TV channels either. They cannot imagine a world in which there IS NO broadband internet. They cannot imagine actually leaving the house to go see LIVE music, or an actual LIVE theatre performance. They will tell you that .MP3 files and DVD videos and movies are fine,fine substitutes. Same thing. Same music. Same. Same, Same, same. Perhaps--even better, even more-perfect, even more-uniform!

If you are indeed OCD, and fastidious (I know a few heavily OCD folks, great friends, actually!), I would not let the digital software issues bother you. Just keep doing what you've always done in actually making the images, and then just do some basic image adjustments. The curves tool, and black point adjustment are really simple, basics, and can and do go a long ways toward making good images. I've used View NX and Capture, versions 1.0 through 4.2...ugh...
 
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I'm just once again pointing out that there is a HUGE difference between light and images that are manipulated through a LENS, with its own imaging characteristics, its own lens drawing characteristics, its own bokeh signature, and its own flare/ghosting, and spherical aberration profile, etc.,etc.
Most of the defects in a lens are "linear," in the sense that they are additive or multiplicative types of effects. OR they are technically nonlinear, but in a pretty predictable way, getting stronger with linear distance from the center of the lens image (I guess you could call that "quadratic")

There are a few exceptions. One example being strong mustache distortion (which gets stronger, then weaker, then stronger), but these are indeed exceptions, not the rule. Coma, SA, CA, vignetting, etc. most characterizing defects of a lens pretty much increase predictably and linearly with radius.

Any such effects that have linearly scaling magnitudes like that are trivial to replicate with software. Will your boring old run of the mill photoshop filter make it look EXACTLY the same as XYZ specific lens? No. But it will look like the average effect across various lenses, some of which have barrel distortion, some of which have pincushion distortion, and so forth. AND if you really wanted to mimic a particular lens, you could very well do so by simply scaling the strength of the Gaussian blur algorithm with distance from the center of the image, in the same way that that particular lens scales its defects with distance from the center. For most modern lenses, these scaling factors are known and published (for use in lens correction profiles), and an enterprising programmer could apply the already-measured values to a custom diffusion replication filter with almost no errors.

And even mustache distortion could be incorporated if you cared enough. Few shots of a grid, run it through the right software, figure out the strength*radius curve, and then just apply that to the strength of the Gaussian blur, and you're done.

The point is that there's nothing particularly magical about applying an even, algorithmically predictable effect like diffusion BEFORE a lens versus AFTER a lens, as long as you have the lens on hand to measure and correct for, which we do.





Polarizing filters, by contrast, are ENTIRELY different, because the effect depends on NON-predictably, NON-linear aspects of the specific environment of a specific photo. And thus cannot ever be replicated by software based on a non-polarized photo alone. Nor can something like a true tilt shift effect, because again, it interacts with non-predictable aspects of the WORLD outside the lens (object distances) in a way that would require extra information for software to replicate.

Diffusion does NOT rely on any information about the scene. It is only physics and the lens/diffusion materials themselves, which can be mimicked and then applied equally to any scene shot with that equipment. The two types of effects (diffusion versus other stuff like polarizing) are fundamentally, logically different types of things. One is solvable. One is not.
 
Who says you can't go down both paths?

Oh we can... and if my wife wouldn't shoot me, I'd have an Ebony SV57, an 800mm nikkor AF-S lens...

Be well,

Anthony
 
Buckster, I've looked at this product and it seems to be a good option and the price seems fare. How easy is it to install, I've got butchers hands, my little finger rest on the bottom of the battery grip on the D7000, ham fisted one could say. One question... is the Optibrite treatment worth the additional $60?
I've installed them on a couple of my DSLR's over the years, and didn't find it to be difficult at all. I think most anyone can do it, unless they have the shakes really bad or something like that.
 

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