Did ya all miss that part about using rear curtain flash?
If he was using TTL, that shouldn't matter at all - as far as exposure goes.Did ya all miss that part about using rear curtain flash?
If you had turned the flash off - this picture would likely be exposed fine - from what I see.Did anyone else notice that OP used ISO 3200 with 1/6 shutter speed?? That should give you the answer.
I realize That this is bad setting for this picture, but would be more in line for shooting this one, for correct background light?
If he was using TTL, that shouldn't matter at all - as far as exposure goes.Did ya all miss that part about using rear curtain flash?
edit - even manual, I don't see why it would matter...
I've shot second curtain sync & TTL many times and didn't get results like this...
If he was using TTL, that shouldn't matter at all - as far as exposure goes.Did ya all miss that part about using rear curtain flash?
edit - even manual, I don't see why it would matter...
I've shot second curtain sync & TTL many times and didn't get results like this...
TTL will respond only to the light out put of the flash and being returned by the scene as being adequate. It has no idea if I did a "double exposure' i.e rear curtain flash. In other words TTL does not regulate the flash based on what is on the memory card.
Likewise any other method of controlling flash output responds to the light received returning from the scene and not what has already been recorded on the memory card. Thus the camera/computer looks to have been confused by all the light wash out areas and stuff when trying to produce a photo like the sample one where all of the scene has been treated with "long" exposure and flash as well. Actually it faithfully produced what was recorded we just declare that it was confused.
I can easily produce the same thing with a film camera, rear curtain flash and an old auto flash unit where I can vary the output. The only difference would be that the film would have a much better chance at rendering graduation of tone in over exposed areas while digital tends to just go blank.
I had the flash set to Slow Sync.
Why do people get technical over images like this? Nothing saves this picture. Period. The exposure could have been perfection and still would not save this. It's not even a good snapshot. If I lived to be a million years old I would never post an image like this and ask for help. It's a Before, Jenny Craig, image, while the OP bumps his thread.
There I said it. Shoot me.
Assuming the camera was set to rear curtain flash at all... That's why we need to know what he used and how he shot it. At least on canons you cannot do a rear curtain flash with the pop up. Likewise in many Auto modes it won't do it. So even if it was set to rear curtain and the mode changed or the flash unit removed there's a good chance this was just a normal flash exposure.
Unless Nikons are very different than Canons. This doesn't look like a rear curtain flash exposure...
Assuming the camera was set to rear curtain flash at all... That's why we need to know what he used and how he shot it. At least on canons you cannot do a rear curtain flash with the pop up. Likewise in many Auto modes it won't do it. So even if it was set to rear curtain and the mode changed or the flash unit removed there's a good chance this was just a normal flash exposure.
Unless Nikons are very different than Canons. This doesn't look like a rear curtain flash exposure...
nikons do allow rear curtain with the pop up flash. At least my D40 does.
And you clearly don't know what you are talking about. Not trying to rude, but if there is nothing moving in the frame, than normal and rear curtain flash will give the EXACT same results, given the same exposure settings
It looks to me, like what happened is that the camera metered to expose on the woman. Most likely because he had it set to spot or center weighted metering. Getting proper exposure on her gave him an overexposed background. And since it's white, it blew out. Was that really that hard to diagnose?
To the OP: Change your camera to matrix metering mode and you should be all set. Nikon's meters are pretty good, and if set properly for the situation, are usually very close to perfect exposure.