I did mean the Nikon but really the point is the same for all of them. More light = more stars.
The startrails should be apparent. One thing to note is that the process should change considerably depending on what you're photographing and where.
Regardless of what you do long exposure NR is not only bad, it will flat out spoil the image. You can't stack since it creates an equal exposure for processing purposes. That means any star trails will look like dashes. In any case the "Dark Frame" is exactly what this is for when using Deep Sky Stacker. It does long exposure noise reduction except gives you the option of when to take the exposure (during the shoot is not ideal).
So what are you going for?
- Shooting pictures of stars? Crank up the ISO, take lots of short pictures, don't let the stars trail, align the images and stack the result to bring out the detail and reduce noise in the dark pictures you're taking.
- Shooting startrails in the city? Go really low ISO, take exposures long enough till you can't tolerate the background light pollution, give a few seconds gap and start the next exposure, stack the result with a "maximum brightness" type algorithm to ensure that the startrails come out but the background brightness doesn't increase.
- Shooting startrails in the bush? Play with a low to medium ISO, take exposures long enough till you can't tolerate the noise or sensor bleeding, again give a few seconds cooldown time between exposures, stack again with maximum brightness type algorithm to ensure the startrails come out, adjust levels afterwards since the noise in this case will appear to disappear by raising the brightness of the blacks.