Starting up with Film! (Nikon F3)

[iKokomo]

I decided to try and fix my dad's old Nikon F3! I have done a ton with digital, and have a small photography business but I wanted to take the next step and try film! The way it was done for so many years. I was wondering if I could get some tips on how to get started!

I use my friends 50mm f/1.4 lens (too old to meter properly with the F3) and an old 80-20mm f/4 lens that does meter properly

I have Fuji iso400 and Kodak iso200 film and for special projects Ilford iso50 black and white film.
I get it developed at Walgreens (only place in town) and not really looking much into developing my own (cause at 1 roll a month or every other month is not as practical)

I also have an old SB12/8 flash and the MD-4 motor drive.

Eventually I may get a film scanner and currently looking for a cheaper light meter so I don't have to pull out my phones metering app all the time.

So any tips or tricks to help get me started?

Thanks for all of your help!!

 

[timor]

Shooting color film is not much different from shooting it with digital system. Shooting b&w and let someone else develop it misses the point of shooting b&w film. (IMO). If you want b&w images in this way you plan, you should have a look at ilford XP2 film. This way your local Walgreens lab will have no problems.

 

[bhop]

I don't understand your problem with the meter.. the meter is in the body, not the lenses. My F3 meter is pretty dead on under most lighting conditions.

That said, as timor mentioned, film and digital shooting isn't much different. You just can't chimp after your shots is all. Also, with digital, you'd expose more for your highlights so you don't blow them, but with film it's the opposite. You want to try to get more shadow detail since film's lattitude will hold highlights better.

 

[Mully]

Do your own processing and learn the "whole" process. Keep notes because it is easy to forget what you have done.

 

[vintagesnaps]

I'm not sure why the meter isn't working with the borrowed lens but a used handheld meter might be an option if needed.

I agree, color film seems easy enough to get developed, scanned, and/or prints made. I think there are options with B&W film - I learned B&W film development and had been using a shared darkroom at a local university, and with time constraints I usually got the film developed and then did my own prints. That program was discontinued so for now I'm sending film out to be developed and scanned. I've sometimes scanned my own prints that I did in the darkroom, it just depends on how you want to use your images.

The B&W film like Ilford XP2 could be an option, the possible disadvantage being that it uses color C41 process so if you ever want to be able to do your own prints you'd probably be better off using traditional B&W film. I don't usually under or over expose, I try to get a proper exposure and bracket if I want to be sure I have good quality B&W negatives.

If you find you're shooting a lot of B&W and ever have an opportunity to take a course and learn how to process your own film, maybe thru a local community center, it might be worthwhile. You might think about starting out with the color film and try it out because as mentioned that might be more similar to shooting digitally.

 

[Derrel]

If the 50mm f/1.4 is "too old to meter properly", but it will mount, then you need to use what is called "stopped down metering". Press the tiny silver button (about the size and coloration of a sewing pin's head) on the right side of the lensmount area, and flip the Ai-coupling follower's tab on the body UPWARD, so it locks in position in the UP position. (this is as you are FACING the camera and can read NIKON on the pentaprism,left-to-right). Then, after the AI coupling tab is locked in the up position, mount the 50mm lens. To meter in Manual mode, you must press the depth of field button inward, and then match the diodes to the f/stop the lens is set to.

If the lens is set to f/8, and the 50mm f/1.4 lens is left wide-open, the metered exposure in Manual mode will be FIVE full f/stops in error...so...

One must remember to flip the Ai coupling tab down, and in to its normal "Ai" or Automatic Indexing position when using the 80-200mm f/4...I am guessing that lens MIGHT be a Nikkor, such as the 80200 f/4 Ai-S...or it might be a 3rd party lens that has AI capability.

I shot the F3HP for two decades straight...it's a pretty good camera. if the meter works with an Ai lens, it should work when metering in stopped-down mode...as long as you know what to do, and consistently do what is needed!

 

[djacobox372]

With a dremel tool and some courage it's pretty simple to turn a non-ai lens into an ai lens. This will allow it to meter properly:

 

[iKokomo]

Not my lens haha or I would! When I get home (at college now) I will be able to use my dads 50mm f/1.2 lens!

 

[ktan7]

If you are looking to buy a light meter, try buying the sekonic L350. Buy a good one and not a cheap one. Think long term.

 

[Kiron Kid]

With a dremel tool and some courage it's pretty simple to turn a non-ai lens into an ai lens. This will allow it to meter properly:

View attachment 42701

Nice. Thanks for the pic. You just emulate an AI mount? How long a job?

Thanks