Well, good luck with the wedding. Please make sure that the rear lens element of each lens is clean and smudge free before shooting. The front elements ought to be clean as well, but it is the smaller, rear elements, the one inside the camera, that has a positively huge impact on the photos; a smudge on the rear element can seriously disrupt the light rays coming out of the lens on their way to the sensor.
As far as an ISO tip: outdoors in bright light, keep the ISO lowish, like say 200 or 250. There is no need to use higher ISO settings if there are sunny backgrounds. Indoors, your ISO levels will need to be higher, especially with the amateur-level lenses you have--those lenses do not gather a whole lot of light like the pro-grade lenses, so you'll quite often need to compensate by elevating the ISO to 640,800,or 1000 indoors in average light, OR to 1,600 or 2,000 or 2,500 or even 3,200 in dim,dark,crummy indoor lighting, without flash.
Indoors, if you DO use flash, you can usually shoot flash at ISO levels of 320,400,500,640 or so, and get decent results. The SB 600 is not super-powerful, but it's a moderately powerful flash, so using it at ISO 400,500,or 640 will give you faster flash recycle times than if you were using it at lower ISO values like 200. Also, using the flash with the ISO set to slightly higher ISO levels like 400,500,640, or even 800 ISO makes the need for flash less-critical, and allows you to shoot more flash shots per charge of batteries AND means that the flash output is actually smaller than with lower ISO levels, so there's less need to blind people with high-power flash blasts when the camera is set to say, ISO 640 with flash indoors.
Shutter speed tips: Outdoors in bright sun, the "correct" exposure is the ISO of the camera or film, with the lens set at f/16, and the shutter set to a speed that is equal to the film speed or ISO in use. With a Nikon that has a base-level ISO of 200, that means the camera is set to ISO 200, the lens to f/16, and the shutter is at 1/200 second. That means with a D3000, your bright sunlight flash shots are all going to be tending toward almost over-exposed unless they are shot at f/16, at 1/200 second, at ISO 200. That small f/stop of f/16 will ensure that almost everything from near to far is in-focus, and dust on your sensor will look like little black fleas.
Your engagement shots in bright light are over-exposed, and desperately need some fill-in lighting. Many point and shoot digitals with higher flash synch speeds can and will shoot better-looking photos in dappled backlight than a D3000. Seriously. My buddy Steve's old little Fuji 3800 P&S does a remarkably good job with fill-flash in dappled sunlight and backlighting. Better than your samples, largely due to mechanical/technical limitations the D3000 has and which the inter-lens shuttered Fuji 3800 does not suffer from.
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