Third Party Batteries

sambrody44

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What's your opinion of them?
 
I bought 4 from Amazon for my 30D. I figured that they were so much cheaper than the OEM that it was worth it even if only a couple worked. They all work just as well as the original and they were very cheap.
 
The trouble with asking a question like that is thay everyone who's ever had a problem with TP batteries will immediately take the chance to tell you all about it whereas those who have used them without problem may not bother to say so, so the answers you appear to get may be skewed.

That said, I've got one for my camera - I've had it a couple of years and it operate exactly the same as the original I use alongside it. The only real difference is that it was about a tenth of the cost!

I've had a similar experience with a mobile phone battery.

Generally, camera manufacturers don't make the batteries themselves but buy them in from the same factories that supply the TP ones and whack on an enormous mark up to take advantage of the people who must have a 'big name brand'.

If the camera manufacturer battery is just a few percent more then you may as well stick with that if it gives you peace of mind, but where the difference is significant why not try a TP bettery - you usually don't have that much to lose.
 
I've been using batteries from www.sterlingtek.com for a few years now. They were very cheap and they have more capacity than the Canon batteries. I wouldn't have a problem recommending them to anyone.
 
I had issues with my Nikon D200+ battery grip and 3rd party batteries. The 3rd part batteries did not communicate properly their actual remaining strength and if I let them go till completely drained, the shutter can pop and get stuck in the up position. Turning off the camera for a few seconds, and back on shows a 100% full battery... but it dies a few seconds later.

Changing batteries solves this issue.

I've since kinda decided to stick to the "real thing" and have no issues. I use the 3rd part batteries now more as emergency power than anything else. They do last just as long as the originals, but have the quirk I explained above. Since I know of this issue, its no biggie.
 
I had issues with my Nikon D200+ battery grip and 3rd party batteries. The 3rd part batteries did not communicate properly their actual remaining strength and if I let them go till completely drained, the shutter can pop and get stuck in the up position. Turning off the camera for a few seconds, and back on shows a 100% full battery... but it dies a few seconds later.

Changing batteries solves this issue.

I've since kinda decided to stick to the "real thing" and have no issues. I use the 3rd part batteries now more as emergency power than anything else. They do last just as long as the originals, but have the quirk I explained above. Since I know of this issue, its no biggie.

The circuitry that equipment uses to determine the charge state of lithium batteries requires that they be drained from time to time in order to recalibrate the determining mechanism.

If you start to alternate a new battery with an old one that cannot carry its original capacity you can confuse this mechanism.

It is not, however, a 'quirk' of either the original or replacement batteries (but rather the way these 'sensors' work) and is just as likely to occur if you use an old (many times drained) Nikon battery alongside a brand new one.

It is, however, something to bear ine mind if you do decide to get a new backup battery after using the original for some time.

It's not quite clear how sticking with Nikon batteries would change anything. I kinda suspect it's just a coincidence and that you've either stopped using your old battery(ies) of just happen to have used the batteries in such a sequence that the problem hasn't recurred.


See Here for some more information of discharge determination for Lithium cells.
 
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I can charge these in my Canon Charger right?
 
I've been using batteries from www.sterlingtek.com for a few years now. They were very cheap and they have more capacity than the Canon batteries. I wouldn't have a problem recommending them to anyone.


+1

I have used Sterlingtek's batteries for years in my Canon 20D and have had zero issues. Folks that I have suggested sterlingtek to have also had great luck. I have not heard of a single issue with them yet.
 
I can charge these in my Canon Charger right?

I also use ones from sterlingtek.com - have four of them. Two of them is always in grip. No probs with any of them.

They charge in my Canon chargers - no problems.
 
I've been using batteries from www.sterlingtek.com for a few years now. They were very cheap and they have more capacity than the Canon batteries. I wouldn't have a problem recommending them to anyone.

+++1:thumbup:

4 of my 8 BP511's are sterlingtek and they last longer than the OEM Canon batteries.
 
I can charge these in my Canon Charger right?

Yes, and I don't even know where my batteries came from, somewhere in China. They have a longer life and other than a slight color difference, they work just like the originals and are as good or better than the OEM Canon batteries.

Let me add this. It's a battery, not some high tech piece of equipment. A plastic case and a battery pack.

I have about six of the knock offs and two of the real Canon batteries. Only change I made was numbering them, so when one starts getting weak, I know which one it is, without guessing. :)
 
It is not, however, a 'quirk' of either the original or replacement batteries (but rather the way these 'sensors' work) and is just as likely to occur if you use an old (many times drained) Nikon battery alongside a brand new one.

It is, however, something to bear ine mind if you do decide to get a new backup battery after using the original for some time.

It's not quite clear how sticking with Nikon batteries would change anything. I kinda suspect it's just a coincidence and that you've either stopped using your old battery(ies) of just happen to have used the batteries in such a sequence that the problem hasn't recurred.


See Here for some more information of discharge determination for Lithium cells.

I was aware of this link, read it before... however, after purchasing additional Nikon batteries, all 3 of them properly report their battery life back to the camera for display on my LCD with acceptable accuracy, however the 2 aftermarket ones do nothing but display a fixed level of 100% at all times. They do this after complete drain and recharge all the time or after partial usage... never changes. They display nothing but a 100% full charge from freshly charged till dead empty.

Funny thing, the way that the battery grip is that it will use the left battery first, then when drained, switch automatically over to the battery on the right. If the first battery is a Nikon and the second an aftermarket one, I go from one battery to the other seamlessly. However, if the aftermarket battery is on the left, the camera works until it exhausts the #1 battery and never switches over the battery #2 (because it thinks the first battery is fine).

Really, I just think that I got 2 low quality batteries that do not report themselves at all to the camera, but besides that work well (last long and what not).

My point is that not all aftermarket batteries are infallable. Just that it is best to use known aftermarket ones that are known to work properly with your unit.
 
Few years ago, I talked to a person who manufacturer cell phone batteries in China and sell them in North America. He told me that they do not make the actual cell itself. The buy them in Japan, package it and make it for different brands/models. So the actual chemical (cell) itself are all from Japan but the final products, the batteries, are made in China.

I believe there are not many Li-ion battery cell maker in the world. So the chemical inside may not vary too much. But the QC or spec of the battery may varies.

So far, I have pretty good luck with after market batteries (Cameras, cell phones ...) Of course we heard about horrible stories on overheat rechargeable batteries, but that includes batteries from the OEM as well.
 

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