Threaded Filters vs. Cokin Interchangeable, what do you use?

[adversus]

My old Canon AE-1 I used in high school had a set of Cokin filters, with the threaded holder (well, 2 different sizes) that held up the three filters.

My mom has the Canon + filters now, so I'm thinking of replacing them. I use a couple screw on filters now, but I want to pick up a few more and don't want to spend money on different filter sizes.

My main concern is using them with a lens hood (mainly on my 300mm) if I have harsh cross light I want to mitigate.

 

[sobolik]

There are only three filters that can not be duplicated with software.

(1) Round UV to protect each lens. And deal with UV rays. For those that cry "image degradation" here is a link that should put that to rest for 99% of photographers. Dirty lens article

Use a large round (2) polarizer and step rings to then have one fit every lens. Mine is 82mm. I use my hand as a lens hood. I almost never use a lens hood and I take thousands of photos per year. Maybe one in a thousand has a flare sneak past me.

(3) Square-ish ND filters. I just use solid and not graduated. The lens cannot focus on the edge (see above link) I just hand hold the square-ish filter or stacked filters by the corners and line up the edge with the horizon if need be. I have a holder but I handhold like 5 filters no problem with out it. Like shooting into a sunset I will use all I have plus a polarizer as well.

 

[HikinMike]

There are only three filters that can not be duplicated with software.

(1) Round UV to protect each lens. And deal with UV rays. For those that cry "image degradation" here is a link that should put that to rest for 99% of photographers. Dirty lens article

Use a large round (2) polarizer and step rings to then have one fit every lens. Mine is 82mm. I use my hand as a lens hood. I almost never use a lens hood and I take thousands of photos per year. Maybe one in a thousand has a flare sneak past me.

(3) Square-ish ND filters. I just use solid and not graduated. The lens cannot focus on the edge (see above link) I just hand hold the square-ish filter or stacked filters by the corners and line up the edge with the horizon if need be. I have a holder but I handhold like 5 filters no problem with out it. Like shooting into a sunset I will use all I have plus a polarizer as well.

I agree, you can't duplicate a CP in post, I can replicate a GND and I do it all of the time. I just bracket the images and use layer masks.

 

[oldmacman]

I use Conkin filters but tossed the bracket because I lose too much on the wide angle shots. I also just hold the filter up to the lens.

 

[sobolik]

There are only three filters that can not be duplicated with software.

(1) Round UV to protect each lens. And deal with UV rays. For those that cry "image degradation" here is a link that should put that to rest for 99% of photographers. Dirty lens article

Use a large round (2) polarizer and step rings to then have one fit every lens. Mine is 82mm. I use my hand as a lens hood. I almost never use a lens hood and I take thousands of photos per year. Maybe one in a thousand has a flare sneak past me.

(3) Square-ish ND filters. I just use solid and not graduated. The lens cannot focus on the edge (see above link) I just hand hold the square-ish filter or stacked filters by the corners and line up the edge with the horizon if need be. I have a holder but I handhold like 5 filters no problem with out it. Like shooting into a sunset I will use all I have plus a polarizer as well.

I agree, you can't duplicate a CP in post, I can replicate a GND and I do it all of the time. I just bracket the images and use layer masks.

You cannot (never say never cuz someone will) duplicate ND in a one photo capture. Like a moving animal person etc. The original capture has forevermore locked in the burned out highlights or detail-less dark areas. A static unmoving scene might lend itself to your HDR techniques however. High dynamic range imaging - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[HikinMike]

You cannot (never say never cuz someone will) duplicate ND in a one photo capture. Like a moving animal person etc. The original capture has forevermore locked in the burned out highlights or detail-less dark areas. A static unmoving scene might lend itself to your HDR techniques however. High dynamic range imaging - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I just noticed you used 'ND' and not GND, so yes, you're correct. :blushing: