I started out with a digital SLR system, and tried a modern film SLR and hated it. It was everything my digital was, but with the added hassle of processing film. It was a Nikon N75. Over the summer I was trying to score some old lenses for my digital body and "accidentally" won a fully manual SLR with a decent 50mm lens for $21. I figured I should try it to make sure it worked. Now I shoot more film than digital, and have two manual camera bodies (Ricoh KR-5 Super II, Pentax K1000) along with a few lenses and a broken rangefinder (don't ask).
I would say get a manual film SLR for $20-$40 (there are plenty) and the equipment to process your own black and white (~$40 to negatives, then you can either print or get it scanned). Buy something that will be compatible with digital down the road (Pentax is the hands-down winner for lens compatibility, some other manufacturers are pretty close), learn to use it (shoot some color too), then buy a digital body for your lenses. Not only will you know how to use a camera, you'll appreciate what it does. Last time I said this it didn't go over well, but I still think nothing teaches you to work a camera like one that forces you to learn how to do everything yourself. There's no room to be lazy with a K1000- no auto modes, no autofocus. You either lean how to use it or don't take pictures.
As for what I would recommend, I really do think Pentax has the best lens compatibility hands down. Ricoh SLRs used K-mount (Pentax) lenses, and are unbelievably inexpensive. I would look for a KR-5 in good condition- it won't cost much. If you get the digital fever, any Pentax digital body will take the lenses.