underwater work C&C

seakritter · Aug 16, 2012

finefeather said:
Oh wow.. Amazing work or a adorable stuff you share... thanks for sharing.

Thank you for your complement, I'm glad you enjoyed them. I can assure that it is all my work, not sure if that's what you meant by or a adorable stuff I share, but but I did want to be clear on this point.

seakritter · Aug 16, 2012

maikhnimaa said:
Oh yeah no aquarium needed or used, lol "As I Wander"

Exactly, trust me it has cost me a small fortune to do underwater photography. Besides not sure I have ever seen a 10 to 12 foot Manta Ray in a fish bowl.

Rick58 · Aug 16, 2012

Very nice. The Sea turtle and Moray are 1st place runner up's.
Nice job all the way around.

momo3boys · Aug 16, 2012

Amazing! Quick question though. While I do NOT have the equipment I am sure you have have, when I take an underwater pic with the flash all I get is a bunch of "particles' floating in the water in front of the subject. How do you avoid that?

cgipson1 · Aug 16, 2012

seakritter said:
maikhnimaa said:

Oh yeah no aquarium needed or used, lol "As I Wander"

Click to expand...

Exactly, trust me it has cost me a small fortune to do underwater photography. Besides not sure I have ever seen a 10 to 12 foot Manta Ray in a fish bowl.

That would be quite a fish bowl! lol!

seakritter · Aug 16, 2012

momo3boys said:
Amazing! Quick question though. While I do NOT have the equipment I am sure you have have, when I take an underwater pic with the flash all I get is a bunch of "particles' floating in the water in front of the subject. How do you avoid that?

It's called back scatter, and it occurs for different reasons, mostly because the flash source is to close to the lens. Simple point and shoot underwater cameras suffer from this problem. It's one of things that spending more money can help solve, land based point and shoot cameras have come a long way, unfortunately for the underwater photographer Physics doesn't allow this to be solved as easy as a better chip in the camera. Typically the best way to solve back scatter is to move the flash out away from the lens, and having two just as in land based lighting is better then one. Then getting the angle of the flash is important as well, usually aimed 2 to 3 feet in front of the camera for fish with the light hitting the subject at the edge of the cone, that's why you see those long arms attaching the strobes to the camera, also try aiming the strobes slightly outward I use underwater laser pointers to aim with, I use 3, 1 for the camera and 2 for the strobes, some strobes come with them built in now, oh yeah it helps if the fish doesn't move. The other issue is the photographer's own fins, the whole time a diver is down most kick their fins toward the bottom, which sters up sand and silt, changing your kick to more of a modified frog kick works best. Make sure the other divers around you also don't kick downward. I often swim upside down with my back to the current while looking for a subject to shoot, which I don't recommend for the novice diver it requires a lot of practice and extreme buoyancy control. I'm sorry to make this such a long answer, I shortened it up as much as I could. I hope it helps you.