Using D300 as commander?

[Josh220]

Hey guys,
So after referring to the manual on both my D300 and SB-600, it would appear that the only way I can fire the SB-600 is by using the on-camera flash as the commander. Am I missing something, or is this correct?

What would be the best alternative to using the on-camera flash, and without using any wires? Get a SB-800 or 900 and use the SB-600 as a slave?

Thanks!

 

[Slaphead]

That is indeed correct. You can however set the internal flash so that it has no effect on the image.

As for other methods of wireless flash I'll have to leave that to the others to answer.

 

[SpeedTrap]

The on camera can be set to have no impact on the image as the Slaphead above mentioned. But it is used to meter the scene with a pre-flash so you commander knows how much power to use on the off camera flash.

 

[Defy]

It depends on what you want to do. If you are using the flashes in a studio setting or close proximity the D300 as the commander (go in an set it to commander mode and turn the "Built-in flash" Mode to off i think it displays a -- when it's off) and it will work fine. I have found though if you try to move the sb-600's to far away or hide them in weird places (joe mcnally syle) you need something more than the D300. In that case get he SU-800 if you can find it cheap enough because you never really use the flash on the camera and it has more range than the SB 800/900.

I have 2 600s and don't have any problems using them with the D300 as the commander.

 

[kundalini]

Do you really want a third? Set the in-built to (--). Works flawlessly with 3 SBs.

 

[JerryPH]

Just to clarify, the "--" setting was indeed meant as "do not contribute light to the scene", but the fact is, if you are close with the camera to the subject, the on camera flash does contaminate the shot a good amount.

Apparently, Nikon knows this too, becuase that is why Nikon has an accessory that sits in front of the on camera flash to block front flash but not to the sides.

On the strobist group, there were a couple of people who did very involved tests and proved that indeed there was an effect, but that it is easy to get around the issue (use the Nikon accesory or place a hand in front of the flash, or put up a small piece of tin foil so it doesn't fire to the front just the rear and sides... etc).

Knowing that it is there, though, is the first step in learning to control that situation, and do what is needed to get the final results you desire..

 

[Josh220]

Thanks everyone. I had the on-camera flash set to "M" and 1/20 under commander, but I will give the "--" setting a try.

 

[Garbz]

I find an exposed negative does a good job at removing the subtle remaining contribution too. It's only the IR light with triggers the slaves afterall.

 

[Saltydog]

I thought the Pocket Wizard was the solution?

 

[kundalini]

I thought the Pocket Wizard was the solution?

The title and question is

Using D300 as commander?

Out of the box, we can go wireless.

 

[JerryPH]

kundalini is right, many Nikon cameras can do wireless right out of the box. There are advantages (iTTL metering of remote Nikon flashes) and limitations (shorter distances), but it does work nicely. That said, I use PWs becuase I want flawless reliability over versatility of iTTL, and PWs are good for 1600 feet where CLS is good for 30-40 feet under optimal conditions. Though I use CLS a lot, for the times that I cannot use it, I do not miss not having TTL metering as I have everything set manually and appreciate the consistency from shot to shot... something TTL has an issue with as it tries to adjust each shot for best exposure, not consistency. I also appreciate the 100% reliabilty that the PWs give me.

 

[PhotoXopher]

This is what I got to help eliminate the pre-flash from showing up on my photos:

Nikon SG-31R

 

[JerryPH]

That is the Nikon accessory I was speaking of.

Either this, a small piece of exposed film like Garbz says, or the front element of an old now unused remote control (everyone has at least 2-3 of those in their homes... lol), or a piece of tin foil or your hand... they all do exactly the same thing.

BTW, this doesn't become an issue until you are shooting close to your subjects. By close, I mean 10 feet or less. Past that distance, the preflashes are weaker and have little to no effect on your shot.