Using flash as "fill" only

Blind Bruce · Mar 9, 2016

I like to use my D7200 indoors with available light. Sometimes, I would like "some" additional light to fill in unwanted shadows etc. Whenever I try this, the flash overrides the desired effect and washes out details by overexposing the shot.
Is there a way to setup this camera so the fill is more subdued?

astroNikon · Mar 9, 2016

Can you provide an example with complete EXIF data.
what mode you were using, etc. and how you want the photo exposed.
I'm sure we can all help.

Blind Bruce · Mar 9, 2016

Shooting a model train locomotive with overhead fluorescent with daylight tubes. Using the kit lens, camera set to "M", 1/200, F36, ISO 6400. Good exposure overall but could use some highlights. Not sure what EXIF is.
I want a great DOF as the loco is at a 45 degree angle.

pixmedic · Mar 9, 2016

you can probably drop the aperture a bit and still get sufficient DOF without needing ISO 6400.
are you using a hot shoe flash or the on board pop-up flash?
you can try using a bounce card and bouncing off the ceiling for some minor fill, and adjust the flash power until you get what you want. I prefer a rogue flashbender. it doubles as a snoot as well, but you can find all manner of cheap bounce options online.

Designer · Mar 9, 2016

Blind Bruce said:
Shooting a model train locomotive with overhead fluorescent with daylight tubes. Using the kit lens, camera set to "M", 1/200, F36, ISO 6400. Good exposure overall but could use some highlights. Not sure what EXIF is.
I want a great DOF as the loco is at a 45 degree angle.

What flash? (Already asked)

Does it have iTTL?

If you use "P" mode, and if you have the ISO set to "auto", and if the flash has iTTL, then all you need to do is modify your flash to soften the hot spots. If you are using the built-in flash, tape a sheet of white paper in front of the flash to diffuse the light. Or you can "bounce" the light toward some large white card or paper off to one side by taping a business card at an angle relative to the flash, and angled toward the reflector.

EXIF is the metadata that is attached to each digital file, and will probably remain attached if you upload your photo directly from your computer. Then we can read the EXIF to whatever photo you post. The metadata contains all the settings that were used in making the photo, whether manually or automatically. You can find free EXIF readers to download at various places on the internet.

astroNikon · Mar 9, 2016

Without changing your camera body settings
you want the flash in Manual
and then you set the output 1/128 (really low output) , 1/64, 1/32 up to 1/1 (full output) to "fill" in as much light as you want.
of course it then gets tricky as you may want only some light in some places thus you get into modifiers (say a diffuser), blockers (ie, such as blocking part of the light with a white sheet of paper to diffuse it more), bounce off the ceiling, wall, etc. thus the reason there are all shapes and sizes of modifiers out there.

If your camera settings are totally Manually set
If you add the flash at 1/1 the scene will be totally overexposed. At 1/128 you'll be "adding" light to the exposure. You'll find a happy medium of what you are looking for as you add/remove light, or change aperture, etc.

Is the train moving or stationary ?
As that eases it as you can put the camera on a tripod, and test exposures very quickly to get what you want.

Blind Bruce · Mar 9, 2016

It is the pop up flash. What is iTTL? I only see TTL on the camera. Also, how do I adjust the flash output? I think that is what I should have asked originally. I will look into EXIF but it sounds pretty formidable.

astroNikon · Mar 9, 2016

popup flash info

..
..
page 144 and 115 in your manual

Designer · Mar 9, 2016

Blind Bruce said:
It is the pop up flash. What is iTTL? I only see TTL on the camera. Also, how do I adjust the flash output? I think that is what I should have asked originally. I will look into EXIF but it sounds pretty formidable.

iTTL is Nikon's terminology for "intelligent through the lens" flash control.

EXIF is nothing more than being able to read the metadata that is already attached to your files. Your editing software should be able to show you that data for any of your shots that are in the editing software. Look for that. Or you can go shopping for a stand-alone EXIF reader, many of which are free.

weepete · Mar 9, 2016

What's your focal length and approximate distance to subject?

Derrel · Mar 9, 2016

As seen in the video astroNikon linked to above, press and hold the lightning bolt =/- button on the left front of the camera, and then using the front command wheel to set the flash exposure compensation amount to a lower-than--standard 0.0 value. Try Minus 2.0 flash exposure comp as a start. And maybe a Manual shutter setting that's a bit slower than 1/200 second and a lens aperture more like f/22.

There is more than one way to do this; you might actually find that Programmed Automatic with the flash popped up and an ISO of 400 to 800 is actually better than manual speed setting...in Programmed mode with the flash popped up, the rear control wheel will slow or speed the shutter; the flash exposure comp can add or subtract flash, as commanded by you.

In A automatic, you'd set the f/stop, and the camera would set the speed.

By my way of thinking...fluorescent lighting at ISO 6,400 at f/36 at 1/200 second is just way,way,way offbeat...something's really weird: that is a barely-there exposure level....f/36 at 1/200 at ISO 6,400...that's just a totally odd baseline to start out at.

Solarflare · Mar 10, 2016

The idea of fill flash is to have the flash substantly weaker than the ambient light. If you use the flash just like normal, it wont be a fill flash.

And yes, your settings guarantee a very poor quality shot for no good reason. I strongly doubt that you need so much depth of field that f/36 is necessary. This will kill off all sharpness and will block most light to the camera. And ISO 6400 will destroy image quality thoroughly with excessive noise.