Using shutter prority

[duehew]

Spend some time on YouTube learning about the exposure triangle and metering. There is a lot of multi-thinking going on when taking a picture, but it will get easier the more you learn and practice. YouTube has been an invaluable tool for me.

I'm guessing you weren't using a tripod. With that slow of a shutter speed, it is going to give you a blurry photo. A general rule when hand-holding is that you don't want to use a shutter speed slower than 1 divided by your focal length. E.g., If you are using a 50mm lens, you don't want to slow it down past 1/50th of a second.

Other differences between the first and second photo were the metering setting and White Balance. Spot metering is pretty finicky, and might not be the best to learn on. But i'm not a pro, so this with a grain of salt. I'd start out using center-weighted or evaluative/matrix metering if I were you.

It also might be beneficial to learn how to set up full manual before you start letting the camera do some of the work. Your ISO probably didn't need to be up that high, as it forced your camera to close the aperture to stop light from getting in. If you lowered that, and had a tripod, you could slow your shutter for even more motion blur in the water if you wanted.

All I know from photography I have gathered from the internet (mainly YouTube). Spend some of your free time there and you will start to master your camera. Good luck

Thank you

 

[duehew]

A decent rule of thumb is to take the focal length of the lens to determine when you need a tripod.

30mm= 1/30 second is slowest hand held shutter speed. Slower? Tripod it.
50mm= 1/50 second.
125mm= 1/125 second.

Yes, longer lenses are harder to hold stable so you need faster shutter speeds to ensure no blur.

Of course, with image stabilization (nikon calls it VR), these guidelines might be too conservative, but it's a point of departure for considering your options.

Thanks for the input, good to know.

 

[duehew]

I am trying to get away from Auto setting and have been using Shutter priority. It seems the ones I take in Auto come out crisp and vivid while the ones in Shutter priority come out subdued. Is there another setting I should use?? Nikon D3200 W/55 mm lens. Very overcast day with white balance set for cloudy and hand held. Looking at nothing specific just roughly framing the shot and taking one in Auto and another in Shutter priority. Any advice helpful. Thanks.

Du

What shutter speed are you setting?

It would seem good to compare your pictures by noting the shutter speed and aperture in each (from the Exif data). If there's a difference, that's where it is, and it would be good to realize which setting does what?

The norm for most people is to use aperture preferred, giving the f/stop the desired value. Shutter speed priority is normally only used for fast sports action.

If you are using Auto ISO with shutter preferred, then in dim light (any time ISO increases), the aperture will be wide open, not the best or most crisp choice.

First picture was Auto and the second was "Exposure - Shutter Priority @ 1/2s.

 

[Braineack]

I am trying to get away from Auto setting and have been using Shutter priority. It seems the ones I take in Auto come out crisp and vivid while the ones in Shutter priority come out subdued. Is there another setting I should use?? Nikon D3200 W/55 mm lens. Very overcast day with white balance set for cloudy and hand held. Looking at nothing specific just roughly framing the shot and taking one in Auto and another in Shutter priority. Any advice helpful. Thanks.

Du

What shutter speed are you setting?

It would seem good to compare your pictures by noting the shutter speed and aperture in each (from the Exif data). If there's a difference, that's where it is, and it would be good to realize which setting does what?

The norm for most people is to use aperture preferred, giving the f/stop the desired value. Shutter speed priority is normally only used for fast sports action.

If you are using Auto ISO with shutter preferred, then in dim light (any time ISO increases), the aperture will be wide open, not the best or most crisp choice.

First picture was Auto and the second was "Exposure - Shutter Priority @ 1/2s.

Why 1/2sec? You desperately need to learn and understand that exposure triangle.

In your first shot you told the camera to make the image dark in order to bring the sky down from white to gray.

In the second shot you told the camera to due whatever it takes to make the bridge gray and ignore the rest of the scene.




using tapatalk.

 

[duehew]

I am trying to get away from Auto setting and have been using Shutter priority. It seems the ones I take in Auto come out crisp and vivid while the ones in Shutter priority come out subdued. Is there another setting I should use?? Nikon D3200 W/55 mm lens. Very overcast day with white balance set for cloudy and hand held. Looking at nothing specific just roughly framing the shot and taking one in Auto and another in Shutter priority. Any advice helpful. Thanks.

Du

What shutter speed are you setting?

It would seem good to compare your pictures by noting the shutter speed and aperture in each (from the Exif data). If there's a difference, that's where it is, and it would be good to realize which setting does what?

The norm for most people is to use aperture preferred, giving the f/stop the desired value. Shutter speed priority is normally only used for fast sports action.

If you are using Auto ISO with shutter preferred, then in dim light (any time ISO increases), the aperture will be wide open, not the best or most crisp choice.

First picture was Auto and the second was "Exposure - Shutter Priority @ 1/2s.

Why 1/2sec? You desperately need to learn and understand that exposure triangle.

In your first shot you told the camera to make the image dark in order to bring the sky down from white to gray.

In the second shot you told the camera to due whatever it takes to make the bridge gray and ignore the rest of the scene.




using tapatalk.

Re-read your reply, especially the first line. I had stated at the very beginning I was here to learn. I do not appreciate being told that I "desperately" need something. I know I need input and that is what I have been getting so far and has been put nicely. If you look I included the camera info with each picture I posted. Up until now I have appreciated all the info received. The first photo was taken on Auto and all I did for the second was to switch to Shutter Priority. AN EXPERIMENT TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE. Thanks to all.

 

[duehew]

I Thank everyone for their knowledgeable input to help me to learn better. You all have given me many things to try and learn. Thank you.

 

[Braineack]

The first photo was taken on Auto and all I did for the second was to switch to Shutter Priority. AN EXPERIMENT TO SEE THE DIFFERENCE. Thanks to all.

The metering mode changed between the two, otherwise they would have looked identical.

The first you used matrix (evaluating the entire scene), and the second shot you used spot (using only the area around the focus point). If you're using auto modes -- even S or A -- what the camera does with the settings is all based around what it meters the scene at.

Had they both been shot using matrix, they would have looked identical -- the camera would have changed whatever setting it could on the exposure triangle (shutter, aperture, iso) to make the scene exposed to the predetermined gray it tries to aim for.

But when you start giving it unrealistic settings to work with (like 1/2 sec shutter speed outdoors) then only so much you can close the aperture and lower the ISO, to bring the exposure within reason. That shutter speed is almost always guaranteed to overexpose when shooting outdoors in the afternoon.

 

[bulldurham]

Proper exposure comes with experience. There is no one program that is a fix all for everyone but shooting using only manual settings will teach you quicker and give you more accurate information as to what works best in a variety of situations. Modern digital cameras are fascinating instruments, but in the long run, they are really no different than a pinhole camera. Time, Light and the Speed of the receptor whether it be film or a sensor determines the final image: what do I want my audience to see - Aperture; what variables are going to come into play - Shutter; how much information can my receptor source absorb - ISO...