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Venue Shoot - How would you go about it?

Glancing at the venue it appears there are some bright clear windows in various places around the room at just about head and shoulder height. They may cause a lighting problem unless you can find an angle that avoids them all.
I'd go with limited soft extra light or maybe just bounce flash to keep the look of the place.
 
Glancing at the venue it appears there are some bright clear windows in various places around the room at just about head and shoulder height. They may cause a lighting problem unless you can find an angle that avoids them all.
I'd go with limited soft extra light or maybe just bounce flash to keep the look of the place.

Yeah...looks like on the one end with the smaller windows that the indoor, ambient light is probably seven or eight f/stops below the windows, where down on the other wall with the big floor-to-ceiling window design, the outdoor light comes inside much more strongly. I would say the ONE thing you definitely need to do is to have a controlling "say" in where the gift opening segment takes place. If you've ever been, you know the bride to be and two of her gal-pals sit down, and then one woman brings the gifts to the bride, while the second helper writes down the item,and who gave it. There are also usually some silly games (toilet paper dress crafting done by pairs of women, etc). You have a good high-ISO FX Nikon, so I;d think about flash on camera using a Sto-Fen type diffuser cap, the flash tilted up to 60 degrees when close, and aimed straight ahead on shots beyond 15 feet,and just shooting this as a regular event. I mean, unless you want to knock yourself out, and make this a big deal.
 
The sort of thing my old Metz 45 is made for! :D If you're flying solo, I'd go with with on-camera (and by 'on-camera' I mean on a bracket, NOT in the hot-shoe), if you have, or can find a tag-along, then I'd give him a speedlight-on-a-stick and keep him 30-40 degrees to the side.
 
I shoot vertically a lot anymore. Looks like with a bracket you need to rotate the camera the wrong way? or is it just that all the ones I'm looking at just happen to show it on the left side of the camera?
 
I shoot vertically a lot anymore. Looks like with a bracket you need to rotate the camera the wrong way? or is it just that all the ones I'm looking at just happen to show it on the left side of the camera?
Depends on the bracket... I can't find a picture of the one I use, but there are a number which allow you to easily change the position of the body from portrait to landscape. This is a cheap & cheerful example.
 
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A stroboframe quick flip bracket and ttl cord looks my budget.
 
I was asked as a favor to shoot a friend's wedding shower in a few weeks at local vineyard. I believe they are having it in the main tasting room which has pretty tall vaulted ceilings and/or the outdoor patio area. Picstures can be seen here: Property Gallery @ Paradise Springs Winery of Clifton, Virginia (VA)

How would you guys go about lighting the tasting room? Looks like it gets pretty good sun exposure, it will be held at noon, but I don't think i'll have a chance to scope it out before the event.

Thanks, bros & bras.
Hey there
I recently did a baby shower, similar venue. I kept my speed light on camera with a diffuser to shoot guest at tables and interacting
I set up a photo booth with 2 shoot thru umbrellas and took some fun pics
Mom was quite happy
Got a modeling/event shoot out of it
 
Window light, the overhead lights and any flash you use will each have a different color temperature.
You can gel your flash unit(s). Gelling either of the other 2 light sources would by problematic.

In advance scout the location and check with the venue to find out if they require you add them as a co-insured and provide them with a COI - Certificate Of Insurance.
 
I'm gonna be the first person to say I wouldn't use flash on or off camera.

I would keep the big glass window to my side or back (Never facing the big window) most of the shoot and bump ISO if I had to.
 
I'm gonna be the first person to say I wouldn't use flash on or off camera.

I would keep the big glass window to my side or back (Never facing the big window) most of the shoot and bump ISO if I had to.
Interesting; out of curiosity, why not? I can see your approach working well near the window, but people are toward the back of the room, or shadowed by someone/something...
 
I'll just keep my focal length between 24-35mm at about F4 to take in as much ambient light as possible plus fill flash. I really meant fill flash and cut flash EV if necessary and let the ISO fix the difference. I don't think it will go higher then 800 judging from the images but then it can be from longer exposure time on tripod. For that kind of indoor setting. I'll avoid using anything above 50mm. Can't you arrive earlier to test it out ?


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Interesting; out of curiosity, why not? I can see your approach working well near the window, but people are toward the back of the room, or shadowed by someone/something...

The only reason why is just simply because I prefer the look of natural light over flash.

No technical reason or mumbo jumbo. Just personal preference I guess.

I know Braineack has fast glass and a camera that can handle higher ISO, so I know the equipment isn't lacking.
 
I'll just have to play it by ear. I just wont have any time to scout it out beforehand, but I will be there early enough to figure it out.

I've been toying with the idea of a flash bracket, so I might go that route anyway. I like using flash.

This is really just a "hey, can you stick around for a bit and take pictures of everyone" sort of thing, but I still want to take it serious and do the best I can for practice.
 
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B&H has a used Stroboframe Quick Flip 350 Bracket for $12 and the Nikon SC-17 TTL Sync Cord for another $14, used. I'm going to grab both those and try it out. Not much of an investment if I'm not pheelin' the bracket.
 
B&H has a used Stroboframe Quick Flip 350 Bracket for $12 and the Nikon SC-17 TTL Sync Cord for another $14, used. I'm going to grab both those and try it out. Not much of an investment if I'm not pheelin' the bracket.
Ummm... are you sure it's the SC-17 cord you need? IIRC that's a couple of generations old, and I'm not certain that it's fully compatible with current digital bodies and/or speedlights.
 

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