What are you using lately?

KevinR · Apr 8, 2005

Hey all,
Just kind of sitting here bored and was wondering what everybody is using as far as paper/developer combination lately.

I was using Ilford IV MGF FB and sprint developer.

Have been using Oriental Select VC FB and Ilford PQ Universal developer and I really like the Oriental paper. I'm definitely ordering more of that. This may sound weird, but on top of printing really nice, it drys down nice and flat compared to the Ilford.

terri · Apr 8, 2005

All I seem to have in the house is Dektol; just mixed another batch tonight. :mrgreen: I have a bag of Selectol Soft on a shelf waiting for me to figure out when and how I'm going to try it.

My main papers are the Ilford IV FB, and Agfa MC Classic 118. This is a wonderful, versatile paper for me, that Agfa. :thumbup: I used it for years exclusively for hand coloring, and now it works great for bromoil printmaking (as does Dektol - a happy coincidence). The Ilford is my favorite for straight B&W printing.

sbalsama · Apr 8, 2005

I'm using just plain ol' Ilford RC VC Glossy, 5x7 and 8x10 (I love the 8x10, beats me why). Just put an order in for a Bergger sampler pack - 12 8x10 sheets of 3 of their papers including the VCCB I've been hearing about. It'll be my first fiber experience, so I'm excited. I also looked at the Oriental paper, have heard a lot of good things, but they didn't have a sampler

I'll just wait until I try out the Bergger since I've heard equally good things.

Chemical wise, plain ol' Dektol. I haven't been properly explained to about the necessity or the reason for using anything else. I see Selectol mentioned a lot, perhaps someone could help me out here? Thanks!

ksmattfish · Apr 8, 2005

I've been using Arista papers and chems from Freestyle (see the link at the top of the page). They are a little bit cheaper, but seem very similar to the major manufacturers' stuff.

omalley · Apr 8, 2005

Luminos paper and Bromophen. Luminos paper is beautiful. Looks like it's going out of style, unfortunately.

KevinR · Apr 9, 2005

The only reason I'm using the Ilford chemistry is I am getting it at cost and the liquid is so darn easy to mix.

I know that the recommended temp for developer is 68 (20) but is everybody going by this? I seem to be getting really nice blacks after bumping the temp up to around 74-75. I actually discovered this because the developer tray sits on my dryer, and I was drying a load at the time.

And who is toning their prints?

ksmattfish · Apr 9, 2005

KevinR said:
I know that the recommended temp for developer is 68 (20) but is everybody going by this?

And who is toning their prints?

I try to use 68F for processing film, but for prints I'm usually around 78F. I don't worry about being as precise as I do with film; I often just go with room temp.

I use sepia and selenium toner quite a bit; sometime by themselves, and sometimes I use both for a split tone. I have some copper toner I've been meaning to try out.

terri · Apr 9, 2005

I actually toned for the print exchange; for one set of prints, I wanted my blacks a bit richer. Can anyone tell??

I use a highly diluted selenium when all I'm going for is a slight tonal shift like that.

I last used sepia over the fall, I think. Been a couple years since I toned blue, but I love the look on some prints. :thumbup:

I've yet to try the copper, but I like that look, as well. Matt, when you get around to trying it, I hope you post the results here!

havoc · Apr 10, 2005

I've been using Polymax because that is what I used at school. But I my professor was alittle too "old school" about Kodak products. I am seriously considering the Photographers Formulary when I get my permanent darkroom set up.
As for paper i have used Kodak, (hated the lack of contrast I got) Illford (loved it but spendy) and Sterling (much like the Illford paper but cheaper) I want to try the Arista EDU paper though since its so cheap. All are fiber and variable contrast.
As for toner I have used alot of Selenium for assignments, alittle blue toner, (watch that stuff it works real fast) If you overdo it though its cool, you can stick it back in paper developer for a second or two to take the tone out. Have no idea why that works but it shouldn't harm a print that is already fixed. And also Sepia. I love Sepia but that smell is a killer...

KevinR · Apr 11, 2005

It seems that everybody that responded is using variable contrast paper. Why?

I know for me, that it is just what was recommended and I got familiar with it. But reading some other forums, there is alot using the graded papers, and I just reread "The Print" again and most of the talk on paper was graded.

omalley · Apr 11, 2005

Take a look at 'The Variable Contrast Printing Manual' by Stephen Anchell. It explains everything. Basically with VC papers there is no limit to how many different contrast grades you can use in the same print. Half-grades are possible, and essentially it provides more printing control. I didn't think anybody used graded printing papers anymore.

KevinR · Apr 11, 2005

Alot of the guys on the APUG site still are, but I'm guessing these guys are pretty old school.

ps Thanks for the recommendation, I'll have to check it out.

ksmattfish · Apr 11, 2005

KevinR said:
It seems that everybody that responded is using variable contrast paper. Why?

I know for me, that it is just what was recommended and I got familiar with it. But reading some other forums, there is alot using the graded papers, and I just reread "The Print" again and most of the talk on paper was graded.

Most of "The Print" was written before multigrade papers existed. Ansel Adams did update it before his death, but that was still 20 years ago. Multigraded papers have come a long way. I'm a regular at APUG, and I don't get the impression that graded is more popular than multi-graded, but you are probably right that there are old school printers who prefer graded papers, because that's what they are used to.

The reasons I prefer multigraded papers are:

1) They are almost always cheaper (this probably has to do with supply and demand, more people are buying MG papers).

2) With MG papers I only have to keep so much in inventory. I can get by with a couple of boxes. I usually keep about 500 sheets each of 8x10 in RC and FB on hand, and at least 200 sheets of 11x14 FB and 16x20 FB. If I had to stock each grade it would be 5 times that much.

3) Split contrast printing: using different contrast grades on the same print. This is an invaluable technique, and I'm sure Ansel would be using it if he were still around today (or at least having his students/printers use it). Search for "split contrast filtering" and you'll come up with lot's of articles on this.

oriecat · Apr 11, 2005

The only graded paper I have tried is Luminos RCR-Art, which was a grade 2. I really liked it and hope to get some more, it has a lovely texture.

ksmattfish · Apr 11, 2005

oriecat said:
The only graded paper I have tried is Luminos RCR-Art, which was a grade 2. I really liked it and hope to get some more, it has a lovely texture.

It is true that some papers are only available in graded, so if you want to use them...