WHAT ESSENTIAL GEAR DO I NEED?

madisonofriel

TPF Noob!
Joined
Jun 11, 2014
Messages
121
Reaction score
12
Location
Georgia
Can others edit my Photos
Photos NOT OK to edit
I am starting to get serious about making photography a business for me, so I wanted to start collecting the ESSENTIAL gear I need to get started. Right now I have a Nikon D3000 With the kit lenses that came with it (the 17-55mm and 50-200mm) I am thinking of the next lens I want to buy somthing like this: Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX Nikkor Lens 2183 B&H Photo
Because right now I'm doing a lot of outdoor portraits.
and I have no idea if I need a some other flash and if so what kind, so the next step for flash would be...?

So if you could give me a list of essential gear to start gathering, it would really be helpful! please keep in mind im only 16 and money is tight lol. I just want to know what to look for. I plan on doing mostly outdoor portraits and things like that until I get studio stuff ect.

I also just invested in what I think is a pretty good tripod. Manfrotto 293 Carbon Fiber Tripod with 494RC2 MK293C4-A0RC2 B&H

THANK YOU SO MUCH PEOPLE OF THE PHOTO FOURUM!!!
 
16 and looking at working in photography. You are to be commended. Make it happen.

Photographer list of essentials:

  • thick skin - people will always have an opinion
  • negotiating skills - people will always want everything for free
  • deep pockets - you will never have enough gear
  • experience - enjoy learning every day. take the advice you agree with and ignore the rest.
  • motivation - dont give up because you made a mistake

You might need a camera.
 
I would skip that 35mm prime and buy the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. It has more range, and is decent. Flash? The D3000 cannot 'leverage' a high-enmd commander flash, so buy two cheaper Yongnuos I guess. If one breaks, you will have a spare.

I think a 4x7 foot reflector panel is more valuable than many things outdoors; not one of those dinky little things, but a BIG reflector, a rectangle so it can easily be propped up and not roll.
 
Get the 35mm f/1.8 prime and really get to know it.
Learn to shoot in the shade, make the light work for you.
 
I would skip that 35mm prime and buy the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. It has more range, and is decent. Flash? The D3000 cannot 'leverage' a high-enmd commander flash, so buy two cheaper Yongnuos I guess. If one breaks, you will have a spare.

I think a 4x7 foot reflector panel is more valuable than many things outdoors; not one of those dinky little things, but a BIG reflector, a rectangle so it can easily be propped up and not roll.


Agreed.

That and Lightroom if you don't already have it.
 
Not really gear, but if you're serious about starting a business:

A business plan, including a marketing strategy;
Insurance (for the equipment and for you);
Any permits or licenses required in your area;
Contracts and releases ready to be filled out and signed.
 
Okay, many thoughts...

1. If you're going to be shooting mostly outdoors, then it helps to get a 5-in-1 reflector. First, the reflector can bounce around light and reduce some of the extremes. Second, a 5-in-1 will also have a scrim that will soften the light and produce a better portrait. And with that reflector, you'll need an assistant OR a good stand and clamp and a sandbag/water jug b/c the big reflector is a sail that catches wind.

2. I love the Nikon 35mm f1.8. Great little lens, light, reliable. But unless you're going to shoot boudoir or some very stylized portraits, you probably don't need to go to f1.8 (that would put eyes, eyebrows, nose and maybe the ears in focus and the rest would start to blur). Also, you get chromatic aberration with this lens when shooting into light at f1.8 or f2.0. Doesn't mean it's a bad lens--it's a terrific bargain. And, I understand that having two kit lens, you want something that will give you a wide open aperture. But if you buy it, do so with full knowledge. For shooting outdoor portraits, unless you're shooting in very dark space, I don't think this is a particularly valuable lens.

3. I think the idea of getting two Young Nuo speed lights is a good one. Use 'em as optical slaves.

4. I'd also consider buying a cheap stand and soft box/umbrella combo. I say "cheap" b/c you don't know how to use one and if you're going to be shooting outdoors (and thus on the road) your equipment will take a beating. So if you invested $200 on that setup, you'd probably still end up having to replace it in a year b/c it got rained on, dropped in a creek, stepped on, stolen, had coffee spilled on it in the car, got ripped when you were rushing to put stuff away as a storm approached, or got blown by a stiff wind in to the rocks.

5. Start to develop a list of "go to" locations that are perfect for a bunch of portraits. Engagement portrait. Graduating senior. Christening. Family reunion. Musical group. Athlete. Performer/actor/singer. Have a bunch of locations you've identified where it's not going to get you a ticket to set up for a 30 minute shoot. Having one stop for everything just won't work for a serious portrait shooter.

6. Although you said you're going to shoot outdoors, you're going to find that there are just too many instances where someone wants to pose and...it's raining...or storming....or a MUA is involved. Or multiple clothes/wardrobe changes. So if you seriously go into portrait-land for work, you're going to end up doing a lot of work indoors. And that means you'll need some backdrops. Keep your eyes open for theatrical scenery/backdrops (like a ripped stage curtain or cloth) that is discounted. Or colored sheets at the Salvation Army store. And some clamps. Or make a stand out of a lot of PVC. And a good seat (for instance, I used a drummer's seat for the longest time for my portraits work). And old chair with chipped paint and "character" is often times a useful seating and prop tool for portraits. And start to acquire useful props for portraits (since amateur models don't know what to do with their hands...and a prop gives them something to hold.....and a prop can set the tone for a photo). Here are some example of cheap but useful props: a champagne flute, a good artificial rose, a bible, a pair of reading glasses, a pair of sunglasses, a cigar, an expensive pen like a Mont Blanc (that doesn't write), a cloth apron, a long-neck beer bottle or a glass coke bottle, a silver/pewter ornate hand mirror, a baseball or football, a putter or golf ball. Obviously, not all props work with each person. But depending upon the nature of the shoot, the location, and their background one of these props is often a nice touch to a portrait or even a good aid (for instance, I often use a pair of sunglasses for women as an impromptu hair band when shooting outdoors with sudden gusts of wind).
 
Shoot with what you have get experience and then you will know what you need, you have only had few replies with conflicting advice, don't take advice on what you need from other photographers
 
Last edited:
I would skip that 35mm prime and buy the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. It has more range, and is decent. Flash? The D3000 cannot 'leverage' a high-enmd commander flash, so buy two cheaper Yongnuos I guess. If one breaks, you will have a spare.

I think a 4x7 foot reflector panel is more valuable than many things outdoors; not one of those dinky little things, but a BIG reflector, a rectangle so it can easily be propped up and not roll.

Yeah the fact that it is only 35mm is alittle diapointing and not what I want, but its the best i can do right now I cant afford $500 unfortunately
 
Okay, many thoughts...

1. If you're going to be shooting mostly outdoors, then it helps to get a 5-in-1 reflector. First, the reflector can bounce around light and reduce some of the extremes. Second, a 5-in-1 will also have a scrim that will soften the light and produce a better portrait. And with that reflector, you'll need an assistant OR a good stand and clamp and a sandbag/water jug b/c the big reflector is a sail that catches wind.

2. I love the Nikon 35mm f1.8. Great little lens, light, reliable. But unless you're going to shoot boudoir or some very stylized portraits, you probably don't need to go to f1.8 (that would put eyes, eyebrows, nose and maybe the ears in focus and the rest would start to blur). Also, you get chromatic aberration with this lens when shooting into light at f1.8 or f2.0. Doesn't mean it's a bad lens--it's a terrific bargain. And, I understand that having two kit lens, you want something that will give you a wide open aperture. But if you buy it, do so with full knowledge. For shooting outdoor portraits, unless you're shooting in very dark space, I don't think this is a particularly valuable lens.

3. I think the idea of getting two Young Nuo speed lights is a good one. Use 'em as optical slaves.

4. I'd also consider buying a cheap stand and soft box/umbrella combo. I say "cheap" b/c you don't know how to use one and if you're going to be shooting outdoors (and thus on the road) your equipment will take a beating. So if you invested $200 on that setup, you'd probably still end up having to replace it in a year b/c it got rained on, dropped in a creek, stepped on, stolen, had coffee spilled on it in the car, got ripped when you were rushing to put stuff away as a storm approached, or got blown by a stiff wind in to the rocks.

5. Start to develop a list of "go to" locations that are perfect for a bunch of portraits. Engagement portrait. Graduating senior. Christening. Family reunion. Musical group. Athlete. Performer/actor/singer. Have a bunch of locations you've identified where it's not going to get you a ticket to set up for a 30 minute shoot. Having one stop for everything just won't work for a serious portrait shooter.

6. Although you said you're going to shoot outdoors, you're going to find that there are just too many instances where someone wants to pose and...it's raining...or storming....or a MUA is involved. Or multiple clothes/wardrobe changes. So if you seriously go into portrait-land for work, you're going to end up doing a lot of work indoors. And that means you'll need some backdrops. Keep your eyes open for theatrical scenery/backdrops (like a ripped stage curtain or cloth) that is discounted. Or colored sheets at the Salvation Army store. And some clamps. Or make a stand out of a lot of PVC. And a good seat (for instance, I used a drummer's seat for the longest time for my portraits work). And old chair with chipped paint and "character" is often times a useful seating and prop tool for portraits. And start to acquire useful props for portraits (since amateur models don't know what to do with their hands...and a prop gives them something to hold.....and a prop can set the tone for a photo). Here are some example of cheap but useful props: a champagne flute, a good artificial rose, a bible, a pair of reading glasses, a pair of sunglasses, a cigar, an expensive pen like a Mont Blanc (that doesn't write), a cloth apron, a long-neck beer bottle or a glass coke bottle, a silver/pewter ornate hand mirror, a baseball or football, a putter or golf ball. Obviously, not all props work with each person. But depending upon the nature of the shoot, the location, and their background one of these props is often a nice touch to a portrait or even a good aid (for instance, I often use a pair of sunglasses for women as an impromptu hair band when shooting outdoors with sudden gusts of wind).

So what lens do you recommend? I was looking at this one cause its so cheap. But I can spend a little more maybe $300? I'd love a 50mm or 85mm, but they are like $500.
And yes I already have the 5 in 1. I have the big one too :) It has really been good.
 
I would skip that 35mm prime and buy the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8. It has more range, and is decent. Flash? The D3000 cannot 'leverage' a high-enmd commander flash, so buy two cheaper Yongnuos I guess. If one breaks, you will have a spare.

I think a 4x7 foot reflector panel is more valuable than many things outdoors; not one of those dinky little things, but a BIG reflector, a rectangle so it can easily be propped up and not roll.


Agreed.

That and Lightroom if you don't already have it.

Yes I LOVE lightroom :)
 
I don't know you, you could be an amazing photographer but just based off the gear you have (right or wrong) I'd guess you've only touched the tip of the iceberg in as far as education and experience. Am I wrong? My advice to you, and to so many who approach me is to

FORGET ABOUT MAKING IT A BUSINESS
(at least until such time that all the above aforementioned elements are in place)


and enjoy the hobby, learn all you can, amass what equipment you like and learn more. Seems everyone wants to skip all of that, get an entry level camera and start charging. ****! (can I say that?)
 
I don't know you, you could be an amazing photographer but just based off the gear you have (right or wrong) I'd guess you've only touched the tip of the iceberg in as far as education and experience. Am I wrong? My advice to you, and to so many who approach me is to

FORGET ABOUT MAKING IT A BUSINESS
(at least until such time that all the above aforementioned elements are in place)


and enjoy the hobby, learn all you can, amass what equipment you like and learn more. Seems everyone wants to skip all of that, get an entry level camera and start charging. ****! (can I say that?)

This may come across as harsh but he's absolutely right.

I'm in the process of turning this into a business and it a PITA. I don't have to work, this something I want to do for fun and gives me some place to be. If I had to do this for a living I would be terrified! I've spent countless $1,000's of dollars and close to 3 months on the legal work, LLC/Tax ID, Business bank account, Logo/branding, rental space, rental space insurance, equipment insurance, Certificate of occupancy from the city,...I still can't even turn the lights on to my showroom because the city is still reviewing my application. The electrical/water companies want touch a thing until they get the ok from the city. In the meantime, I still have to pay rent and insurance. Then you have to keep up with taxes and you have gear cost. You're also going to want to set up an account with a professional commercial printing shop, a consumer printer like walmart and walgreens printing isn't going to cut it. Commercial shops that cater to professional photographers offers discount printing and use quality materials etc but they want even talk to you without a Tax ID number. The same thing with your local camera shop, you can set up an account with them using your Tax ID and not pay taxes on your gear.

Anyhow, as stated above, you may want to enjoy it a little longer as a hobby before turning into a business.
 
So what lens do you recommend? I was looking at this one cause its so cheap. But I can spend a little more maybe $300? I'd love a 50mm or 85mm, but they are like $500.

How much are you planning to spend for the 35mm?

IMO the 50mm is fairly affordable:

50mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR FX

19 new from $216.95, 20 used from$175.00, 5 refurbished from $183.00
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I would get the main number one lens Nikon or Canon


Get a 70-200MM f/2.8 !

Or equivalent it will serve you the most good there is a reason this lens is i believe the most popular zoom lens.





 

Most reactions

Back
Top