What settings give you the blured background

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by crowl31, Dec 18, 2007.

  1. Teresa

    Teresa TPF Noob!

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    okay i will try that sometime and then i will post a pic if came out okay...dont feel good and dont have time right now to play with that


     
  2. Big Mike

    Big Mike I am Big, I am Mike Staff Member Supporting Member

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    What I meant was to zoom lens lens out, and then move yourself to where your subject fits into the frame how you would like them to. If that means that you have to back up another 10 or 20 feet...then that's what you would do.

    Of course, you don't have to zoom all the way. The point is that two main things affect the DOF. #1 is the aperture, a larger aperture (smaller F number) will give you a shallower DOF. #2 is the focal length of the lens, a longer lens will give you a shallower DOF.
     
  3. Teresa

    Teresa TPF Noob!

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    well too bad i dont have any other lenses for my camera
     
  4. JerryPH

    JerryPH No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I am not sure about P&S cameras, but there are 3 things that need to happen to create "bokeh" or this desireable blur behind your subject.

    Yes, the first part was already described... one needs a BIG aperture (numerically SMALLER number) like 1.4, 1.8, or 2.8... though with dSLRs one can get bokeh with apertures as small as F/5.6 or F/6.1.

    The second thing is... you have to know two important distances and a very basic "ratio" rule.

    - The distance from camera to subject
    - The distance from the subject to what is behind it.

    The ratio trick is this:
    If the distance from the lens to the subject is LESS than the distance of the subject to something behind it, it will be blurred.

    If the distance from the lens to the subject is GREATER than the distance from the subject to something behind it, that "thing" behind will be in focus.

    The concept is called DOF or Depth of Field. The bigger the aperture (numerically smaller), the greater the amount of resultant bokeh for any given ratio of distance and the smaller/shallower the DOF is.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. sinnedone

    sinnedone TPF Noob!

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    LOL

    What I meant to say is that it does everything I always wanted a camera to do that my point n shoot cameras couldnt. I dont think Im ever going back to a point n shoot again!:lol:
     
  6. Woopy

    Woopy TPF Noob!

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    very useful advise!
    I just get a SONY H7...
     
  7. Teresa

    Teresa TPF Noob!

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    i will try that here in a few minutes and see if i can't create that look
     
  8. JerryPH

    JerryPH No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Looking forward to seeing your results. :)
     
  9. Big Mike

    Big Mike I am Big, I am Mike Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Amen!
     
  10. petey

    petey TPF Noob!

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    holy crap this works. :thumbup:

    i discovered how to change it by mistake but its there! right on!:lol:
     
  11. Fliphishermon

    Fliphishermon TPF Noob!

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    I’m at the other extreme. I’m trying to get a deep field so I have to use high aperture (f/) numbers (like a 22) which slows the shutter speed (1/60-1/30). (I’m taking night shots.) I want structures close to me and those at a distance to all be in focus. I was also working on a shot where the large Christmas tree in the middle of an 10-story atrium was in focus and I also wanted it’s reflection in a window about 100 feet away from it to be clear. So I used the higher aperture and slower shutter speed. I can accomplish this fairly easily by using my camera’s Av setting.

    If you don’t have an Av setting just remember, 1 f/ stop change = 1 shutter speed.
    For deeper fields, focus your camera like you would normally; then set the f/ stop one higher (greater number) and the shutter 1 stop lower.
    For blurred backgrounds, focus; then set the f/ stop one lower (smaller number) and the shutter speed one stop faster.

    Keep resetting your stops until you get the effect you’re looking for.

    A tripod becomes necessary with anything slower than, for me, 1/125.

    One of the ways to test the deep field is to make sure all of the focus points are hot, which indicates that everything in the picture is in focus.

    My camera also has a Depth of Field preview button but I don’t use it much.
     
  12. JerryPH

    JerryPH No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Highest F/ numbers are not usually needed unless you are looking for a specific effect (unless you want that starbust effect over every point of light). What you want to do is use the numerically lowest (widest aperture) that gives you the DOF you need.
     

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