Whats better Nikon flash or Yongnuo

After reviewing some youtube videos it seems that with the 560-tx you can do some cool stuff and have a lot of control of each light source. Perhaps this is also true to a nikon set up but, forgive my ignornacnce as I really don't know all the ins and outs to flash set ups.

I think I would like to order the 560-tx control along with two 560-lll flashes for now and see how that plays out for me. Is there a yongnuo that does have ttl ? I thought I read that the 560-lll does…maybe it was the yn565exn.
 
The YN565 and YN568 both do TTL, but they not integrate with the YN560 system. So if you got the two 560's with a TX controlling them, and then want to add a YN565 for example, it will not be that easy.

The difference between the YN565 and YN568, the 568 has HSS while the 565 has an external battery port.

I think the 560's are an excellent choice for most uses. If you're doing an event where conditions change quickly and often, the manual 560's may not be the best option. For studio, portrait, controlled environments, the 560 system is really hard to beat.
 
but does not integrate with the YN560 system^^^

does this mean you can't use them together?

would it be better to get two yn565 or two 560-III
 
I revised my previous post.

The 565's do not have a built in receiver so they require external triggers such as the YN-622. So if you wanted to later add a YN565 to the mix you would need two YN-622 Transceivers. One on camera and one on the flash. Then you could put the YN-560-TX on the 622 that is on camera to continue controlling the 560's.
 
Oh I see. thanks so then it would be better for to start off with the 560-lll and the 560 controller.
 
another question regarding the 565 , does this operate like a nikon flash. From what the description is saying on amazon is that you can use this as a slave. So if I use the pop up flash and set it to commander I could then use this flash off camera without any receiver?
 
I went ahead and ordered two 560 III and one 560 -tx

Should be here tomorrow thanks to amazon prime. I am looking forward to seeing the results and differences.

I have also considered another sb-700 and the nikon su-800…it is more expensive but is suppose to be very easy to use and can still use ittl.
 
another question regarding the 565 , does this operate like a nikon flash. From what the description is saying on amazon is that you can use this as a slave. So if I use the pop up flash and set it to commander I could then use this flash off camera without any receiver?


Yes, the YN565EX can be a remote with the Nikon Commander, TTL or manual. It can also be an optical slave for manual flash. And of course hot shoe TTL, bounce, etc. See Review of the Yongnuo YN565EX Speedlight
 
FYI, I used a Su800 with my YN560ex the IR trigger of the 560 is subpar on my unit. Cannot get further than 8 feet away. Not very useful. So I went to RF triggers.
 
FYI, I used a Su800 with my YN560ex the IR trigger of the 560 is subpar on my unit. Cannot get further than 8 feet away. Not very useful. So I went to RF triggers.


Try something other than the SU-800. That's not what it is for. It is doing Commander stuff, which is triggering the manual slave before the shutter was open. You cannot mix Commanders with real manual stuff.

I used the D300 internal flash at 1/128 manual power (that would be equivalent to a hot shoe speedlight about 1/512 power level), and it easily triggers a YN565EX S1 slave at the 75 foot spec. I have to open the front door and take the trigger outside to manage the 75 feet. :)
 
Last edited:
FYI, I used a Su800 with my YN560ex the IR trigger of the 560 is subpar on my unit. Cannot get further than 8 feet away. Not very useful. So I went to RF triggers.

I don't know much but I was pretty sure the su-800 were not suppose to be used like that. More for the nikon creative lighting. But yeah from what I gathered when using the nikon flash off camera the range was poor and the flash did not always fire if the camera was infront of the flash. I have that issue with the sb-700. It's kinda annoying I have to make sure keep the flash within range and I front of the camera.
 
Actually the 560EX .. not the other 560s .. When mounted on-camera, it is a manual only flash. However, as a wireless flash it is capable of TTL with either a Canon or Nikon commander.

The 560EX is sold as SU-800 compatible BUT NOT the other 560s
BUT .... I don't use it with a SU800 anymore due to the very limited IR range it has.
It worked perfectly within 8 feet, beyond that the IR wasn't sensitive enough.

I've moved on since then. I use RF triggers and use the 560ex in strictly manual mode strictly as my BG light. My other flashes are Nikon and I have no problems with IR range.

I'm just offering up my experience with the OP who mentioned the SU800 with the Yongnuo's 560 line, and since the 560ex is part of the 560 line..,

below and above quote taken from ==>Better Family Photos: Yongnuo YN-560EX (EX600) Review
YONGNUO'S FLASH LINEUP
Here's a brief comparison with the other current flashes in Yongnuo's lineup:

  • YN-560 - Manual only flash. Simple interface. Compatible with external power pack.
  • YN-560II - Manual only flash. LCD interface. Compatible with external power pack.
  • YN-560EX (formerly EX600) - When mounted on-camera, it is a manual only flash. However, as a wireless flash it is capable of TTL with either a Canon or Nikon commander.
  • YN-565EX - When mounted on-camera, it is a TTL flash (Nikon or Canon but not both). Like the 560EX, it is capable of TTL as a wireless flash with either a Canon or Nikon commander. Compatible with external power pack.

There are multiple way of triggering a flash off camera.
1 - use tethering/cables
2 - use your onboard flash
3 - use IR as such with the SU-800 which is also a commander
4 - Radio triggers
and of course Yongnuo has their 560 controller unit for specific 560 units
 
Last edited:
If you're going to ever use the flash on camera, then you'll probably want to go with the one that has TTL capabilities.
 
So I got the 560 III today along with the 560 trigger. It was a little bit of a hassle trying to pair them but I finally did it. Once I started messing around it got myself very confused.

so 1/128 is less light power and 1/1 is more light power? I also see +3 and +7 but I do not see that you can go -3 or -7 which seems like that would be a good option. I kept washing out the pictures and finally started to get something usable to full around with. Can someone please explain the difference between 1/1 and 1/28

Also when I shot in M mode on my camera I kept getting images that looked like half was lit and half as dark. So the top part was lit with flash and the bottom part was dead black with a pretty good line of separation. I have no Idea why, I kept firing off and sometimes it would fully be lit while others not…..When I shoot in A mode on the camera this does not happen with the same output from the flash. Can these flash do - comp?

Here is an example of what happened while shooting in M mode on camera

what? by VIPGraphX, on Flickr

any ideas why
 
So I got the 560 III today along with the 560 trigger. It was a little bit of a hassle trying to pair them but I finally did it. Once I started messing around it got myself very confused.

so 1/128 is less light power and 1/1 is more light power? I also see +3 and +7 but I do not see that you can go -3 or -7 which seems like that would be a good option. I kept washing out the pictures and finally started to get something usable to full around with. Can someone please explain the difference between 1/1 and 1/28

Also when I shot in M mode on my camera I kept getting images that looked like half was lit and half as dark. So the top part was lit with flash and the bottom part was dead black with a pretty good line of separation. I have no Idea why, I kept firing off and sometimes it would fully be lit while others not…..When I shoot in A mode on the camera this does not happen with the same output from the flash. Can these flash do - comp?

Here is an example of what happened while shooting in M mode on camera

what? by VIPGraphX, on Flickr

any ideas why

My instant guess is that you were shooting HIGHER than your camera's sync speed. Each body has a set maximum shutter speed for syncing with flashes (often 1/250th). Shoot at a SS faster than that and the shutter will be in the picture (as above) and appear like a black rectangle in the frame. Also, 1/1 is FULL power, and 1/128th is 128th the amount of power. That is to say that you it's much much less light. My guess is that you were just blasting too much light at the subject and that's why your pictures were all washed out.

Cheers!
Jake
 

Most reactions

Back
Top