What's the key to a good portrait?

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Next year, in college, I'm hoping to get an intern spot with a local photography group. They specialize in portraits (like school shots, sports, family, modeling, etc.). What is the key to a good portrait shot? After my year or two, or maybe 4, what kind of equipment would I need to look at getting. Rolling with a Nikon D60, Nikkor 18-55 and 55-200mm (need a better lens yes?) and a SB-600.
 
No Key, it is everything in one. Good Photographer that has good lenses, with good lighting, good back ground, good composition, good subject, in focus. So no Key just all the basics combined to make a good shot!
 
I'm a former portrait shooter who made a full-time living from shooting studio portraits in the early 1990's, so I will give you a couple of pointers about what makes a good portrait. First off, and this might rankle some amateur feathers here, but ditch the DX camera and buy a FF digital SLR, or at least ADD a FF body to your kit; DX is over twice as small as FX, and the way lenses behave on DX is disadvantageous to you as a portrait shooter both indoors and outdoors. To shoot a 6 foot tall person on FX, with an 85mm lens, you can stand 20 feet away. With a DX camera, you need to be 34 feet way for the same field of view. And at 34 feet, the DOF is hugely increased. Indoors, in small studios, DX means ultra-short focal lengths to get the width you need to encompass groups, and that means HUGE depth of field, and almost no background control. So, look into getting an FX Nikon body. Seriously. It will make your work look more-professional, and make your life much easier.

Second. The key to a good portrait shot besides equipment, is rapport with the subject and confidence-building between you and your subject. Confidence on your part translates to confidence on their part. You need to learn how to look confident, and sound confident, and learn how to simply and clearly tell your subjects how to pose using verbal instructions.

Most volume shooters and fast-paced shooters use pack and head studio strobe systems. Monolights need a boatload of electrical outlets for a six-light shoot,and frankly, most monolights are very one-dimensional,without enough flexibility in terms of heads offered, or the ability to focus or flood the beam spread, have no Fresnel spot accessories, etc. As a new shooter starting out, unless you have a trust fund, stick with Speedotron pack and head systems using mostly 102 light units and 805 or 2400-series power packs bought used. Soooooooooo many people go broke in photography that buying used Speedotron lighting allows you to assemble a complete, entire studio with five 102 light heads and 2- 202VF (Variable Focusing) heads, three power packs, eight light stands, one heavy boom stand, 4 each of 7 and 11.5 inch reflectors, and one-22 inch beauty dish with grid, 3 or 4 barndoor sets, honeycomb grid sets for the 7 and 11.5 inch reflectors--all of this can be bought used for the cost of ONE higher-end Profoto pack and one light head. I'm not kidding on the prices either.

I know other people like other brands of lighting gear, and many will suggest Alien Bees, but I think you'll get more respect,and more done with less hassle by buying Speedotron Black Line equipment on the USED market,and specifically from e-Bay or craigslist.

Lens wise, an FX format camera makes a 70-200 a very useful lens; on DX, the FOV crop makes a 70-200 much less-useful indoors. The 105 DC and 85mm 1.4 AF-D Nikkors are superb portrait lenses; on DX, indoors, they become instantly LESS-useful, by far.

There really is no one,single key to getting good portraits--there are many things you must do correctly, but owning or having access to the right equipment will make things easier than having to continually "fight" your camera,lenses,and lights.
 
What's the key to a good portrait?
Light.

You can have all the best equipment that money can buy, but if you don't have (or don't know how to make) good lighting, then you won't be able to create good portraits.
It's not a matter of which camera, or which lens...or even which lighting equipment. It's about understanding light and how it illuminates your subject. It's about knowing the relationship between light and shadow.

Of course, there are many other factors, equipment being one of them. But without the know-how, you money is wasted on all that great gear.
 
I'm a former portrait shooter who made a full-time living from shooting studio portraits in the early 1990's, so I will give you a couple of pointers about what makes a good portrait. First off, and this might rankle some amateur feathers here, but ditch the DX camera and buy a FF digital SLR, or at least ADD a FF body to your kit; DX is over twice as small as FX, and the way lenses behave on DX is disadvantageous to you as a portrait shooter both indoors and outdoors. To shoot a 6 foot tall person on FX, with an 85mm lens, you can stand 20 feet away. With a DX camera, you need to be 34 feet way for the same field of view. And at 34 feet, the DOF is hugely increased. Indoors, in small studios, DX means ultra-short focal lengths to get the width you need to encompass groups, and that means HUGE depth of field, and almost no background control. So, look into getting an FX Nikon body. Seriously. It will make your work look more-professional, and make your life much easier.

Second. The key to a good portrait shot besides equipment, is rapport with the subject and confidence-building between you and your subject. Confidence on your part translates to confidence on their part. You need to learn how to look confident, and sound confident, and learn how to simply and clearly tell your subjects how to pose using verbal instructions.

Most volume shooters and fast-paced shooters use pack and head studio strobe systems. Monolights need a boatload of electrical outlets for a six-light shoot,and frankly, most monolights are very one-dimensional,without enough flexibility in terms of heads offered, or the ability to focus or flood the beam spread, have no Fresnel spot accessories, etc. As a new shooter starting out, unless you have a trust fund, stick with Speedotron pack and head systems using mostly 102 light units and 805 or 2400-series power packs bought used. Soooooooooo many people go broke in photography that buying used Speedotron lighting allows you to assemble a complete, entire studio with five 102 light heads and 2- 202VF (Variable Focusing) heads, three power packs, eight light stands, one heavy boom stand, 4 each of 7 and 11.5 inch reflectors, and one-22 inch beauty dish with grid, 3 or 4 barndoor sets, honeycomb grid sets for the 7 and 11.5 inch reflectors--all of this can be bought used for the cost of ONE higher-end Profoto pack and one light head. I'm not kidding on the prices either.

I know other people like other brands of lighting gear, and many will suggest Alien Bees, but I think you'll get more respect,and more done with less hassle by buying Speedotron Black Line equipment on the USED market,and specifically from e-Bay or craigslist.

Lens wise, an FX format camera makes a 70-200 a very useful lens; on DX, the FOV crop makes a 70-200 much less-useful indoors. The 105 DC and 85mm 1.4 AF-D Nikkors are superb portrait lenses; on DX, indoors, they become instantly LESS-useful, by far.

There really is no one,single key to getting good portraits--there are many things you must do correctly, but owning or having access to the right equipment will make things easier than having to continually "fight" your camera,lenses,and lights.

I thank you for that information, but do also take into consideration that I am only 17 and buying a full body camera is WAY out of the question. But once I get a steady job, get my hands on one last thing for my car, get to and through college, get a better job, then I might get a full body camera. Maybe even one with like 50 MP (those'll be out by then...right?).

What's the key to a good portrait?
Light.

You can have all the best equipment that money can buy, but if you don't have (or don't know how to make) good lighting, then you won't be able to create good portraits.
It's not a matter of which camera, or which lens...or even which lighting equipment. It's about understanding light and how it illuminates your subject. It's about knowing the relationship between light and shadow.

Of course, there are many other factors, equipment being one of them. But without the know-how, you money is wasted on all that great gear.

I heard reflectors are a good investment and steady on w/ flash lamps are a good idea as well.
 
I thank you for that information, but do also take into consideration that I am only 17 and buying a full body camera is WAY out of the question.

Just pointing out, film is the same size as FX - and much cheaper. You can get a simple film SLR for around $60 online - professional ones go in the range of $300. You'll also get better colors and better results when using it with a nicer film. And keep in mind - all you really need to get a basic nice portrait is a single flash head, call it $100. So yes, it's possible to do professional quality portraits with nothing more than $100 for the film body + $20 for film + processing + $400 for an 85mm f/1.8 lens + $100 for flash and cord = $620. Not too shabby.
 
Wow a variety of opinions on this...i likes :D

I think what makes a good portrait is imagination. Your imagination and vision will always lead the way. The others are just to fine tune it IMO. Once having final shot in your head before you even take it, you use the various tools available like equipment, logic, knowledge, light manipulation, subject manipulation, rules of thirds,emotions, guidelines, etc to fine tune it.

If you can manifest something from your head and deliver what you visualize and transform it into physical form...man that's just photography at its best.

Offcourse alot of my best work is just plain ol luck too :lol:
 
I thank you for that information, but do also take into consideration that I am only 17 and buying a full body camera is WAY out of the question.

Just pointing out, film is the same size as FX - and much cheaper. You can get a simple film SLR for around $60 online - professional ones go in the range of $300. You'll also get better colors and better results when using it with a nicer film. And keep in mind - all you really need to get a basic nice portrait is a single flash head, call it $100. So yes, it's possible to do professional quality portraits with nothing more than $100 for the film body + $20 for film + processing + $400 for an 85mm f/1.8 lens + $100 for flash and cord = $620. Not too shabby.

How does a Canon A1 with 24mm, 28mm, 52mm, 250mm, 200mm tele, 18mm (macro), 400mm tele-extender, and a nice flash unit as well as an auto winder sound? :D That's my old film set.
 
I would like to offer a totally different school of thought so long as it does not offend you. At any point please feel free to say Craig shut up. If I veer of track feel free to to say Craig shut up. This is only my opinion and should be taken as such. If I offend you in anyway please know that it is not my intention. I am here to offer my thoughts on your post. They may be totally off base. Long story short I like to voice my thoughts on photography. I have made photography my life since the age of 13, so I am experienced.

That being said...

Why at the ripe age of 17 are you interested in shooting retail photography? Personally at that age I set my vision toward the editorial world and have never stopped. That is a whole other topic.

What is the key to a good portrait shot? The answer starts with you. You must control the shoot and understand what you and the client are trying to portray in the final image. This can be done in a matter of seconds or in a matter of hours. Your gear and lighting is a means to an end. Take your time and understand these key elements. As time goes on you will develop a style and that will be your calling card to success.

For example; Annie Liebovitz started working for Rolling Stone at the the age of 17. George Hurrell started in Orange County, CA with a falling apart camera and lens and outdated paper. Craig Blank's portraits of his mother eventually worked into his current shooting style. Passion and creativity is what will make your photos work. Technical details and a good business sense will help turn your dreams into reality

Love & Bass
 
The OP wrote, "After my year or two, or maybe 4"

You're 17 now....don't you think that in two years, or four years, you'll be able to afford a full-frame body? Right now you can buy a used Canon 5D for $900 or so on the actual used market if you stay away from big-name websites where prices are top-dollar. Sell the DX stuff and the slow,inadequate kit lens, and buy a used camera and a couple of appropriate professional-caliber, used lenses.

In four years, I expect that you can buy a FF digital SLR body like a Canon 5D for $500 on the used market, or a D700 Nikon for $1,000. Your original question was "what kind of equipment would I need to look at getting." I told you what you'll need if you want to shoot family and individual portraiture as well as doing modeling portfolio work. It doesn't matter that you are 17 now...you asked what you WILL NEED,and frankly if you're more interested in getting accessories for your car, you'll probably not be able to afford decent equipment for years to come.

If you want to shoot professionally, you'll need decent camera, lenses, and lighting and grip equipment. If you want to do it, you'll need to forgo the $140 Nikes and the killer car stereo system with satellite radio and the 20-inch "dubs" (wheels), and tuned exhaust system. Buy used equipment to get started, and let other people take the huge depreciation hit.
 
The OP wrote, "After my year or two, or maybe 4"

You're 17 now....don't you think that in two years, or four years, you'll be able to afford a full-frame body? Right now you can buy a used Canon 5D for $900 or so on the actual used market if you stay away from big-name websites where prices are top-dollar. Sell the DX stuff and the slow,inadequate kit lens, and buy a used camera and a couple of appropriate professional-caliber, used lenses.

1) I don't have a job...well...I do...but that ended yesterday (I do audio installs...seasonal thing).
2) My bank account is strained enough as is.
3) I enjoy photography to much to sell what I have.
4) I'm not intending on making this a career any time soon.

That's why I said, buying a full frame is out of the question.

If you want to shoot professionally, you'll need decent camera, lenses, and lighting and grip equipment. If you want to do it, you'll need to forgo the $140 Nikes and the killer car stereo system with satellite radio and the 20-inch "dubs" (wheels), and tuned exhaust system. Buy used equipment to get started, and let other people take the huge depreciation hit.

Car audio > Photography at the moment. But seeing as I'm done working on my ride for the time being, I can devote more time and eventually money into the profession/hobby. When I deeply get into it, I'll blow some money on some good parts. You try spending 15-17 grand on an audio system, and see if photography takes up a big part of your life. I have inhaled more exhaust and gas fumes than you can imagine over the past year due to my obsession with car audio. And running 25kw of power in your car can do that. How did I get that money you ask? By racing my restored corvette. I'll spare you the details. But since school has started (as of today) and I've got some stupid bs graducation project to do, buying new toys is a tad bit far fetched at the moment.

Now, what are your opinions on that film camera I listed? Always wanted to try my hand at film photography...even though it's a tad more expensive. I pretty much have everything I need for that right there. Just get a few extra do-dads and loads of film and boom. :D
 

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