Which Neutral Density filter?

rexbobcat

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I'm taking a 2-week photography course down in Junction, Texas, and I'm going to be renting a few things before I go.

I was thinking about renting an ND filter, because I don't feel like spending upwards of $70 on something I'm not even sure I will use that much.

Which is better?

The full ND filter that has an absolute density, or the variable density filter? I haven't read much about the ones where you can change the density like with a Circular Polarizer.
 
I use ND's all the time, I use the Cokin system. All my filters fit all my lens by using the same filter holder and I only have to buy the filter ring to lens thread size. In shooting landscapes I use the graduated to blend where sky and ground meet. At times I would use say a solid ND 0.3 and a graduated ND 0.3. Much easier than it sounds.
 
But what about quality. Is there a difference?
 
But what about quality. Is there a difference?
Singh-Ray Filters: Vari-ND Variable Neutral Density Filter One of the better quality filter makers is Singh-Ray, so I don't think it's going to be an issue if you go with that.

the variable will cost a ton, if you are renting this might not be a problem, where as the set density is prob no more than $150 for a a quality brand new the singhray is about $400. the variable is alot of fun to use but it only Varies from about 2-6 stops, i am not sure what kind of shooting you will be doing but this might be a limiting factor. It is also wider in the sense that the lens mount on the variable is thick so on wide angle lenses or lenses that have a problem with vignetting it will vignette further.

Variable ND filters are pretty nifty and a quality one will have you wondering why you bothered buying 2 or 3 separate ND filters, but than again it will never reach the stopping power of a 10 stop nd filter. Stacking a 10stop with a variable is amazing for long exposures.

there is a HUGE diffrence in quality if you get a sub $200 variable filter, where as a $150 set density filter is prime stuff and will not get in the way. The singhray is one of the better ones and you wont be wanting to go to individual filters after you use it, quality is top notch on it.
 
But what about quality. Is there a difference?
Singh-Ray Filters: Vari-ND Variable Neutral Density Filter One of the better quality filter makers is Singh-Ray, so I don't think it's going to be an issue if you go with that.

the variable will cost a ton, if you are renting this might not be a problem, where as the set density is prob no more than $150 for a a quality brand new the singhray is about $400. the variable is alot of fun to use but it only Varies from about 2-6 stops, i am not sure what kind of shooting you will be doing but this might be a limiting factor. It is also wider in the sense that the lens mount on the variable is thick so on wide angle lenses or lenses that have a problem with vignetting it will vignette further.

Variable ND filters are pretty nifty and a quality one will have you wondering why you bothered buying 2 or 3 separate ND filters, but than again it will never reach the stopping power of a 10 stop nd filter. Stacking a 10stop with a variable is amazing for long exposures.
It's 2-8 stops, and a 10 stop is just that: 10 stops, which limits you using anything less than that, unless you buy a combination of ND filters, which still runs you $400 for a set of quality filters.
 
I would refrain from buying a filter unless you consistently find yourself in need of one.
 
Singh-Ray Filters: Vari-ND Variable Neutral Density Filter One of the better quality filter makers is Singh-Ray, so I don't think it's going to be an issue if you go with that.

the variable will cost a ton, if you are renting this might not be a problem, where as the set density is prob no more than $150 for a a quality brand new the singhray is about $400. the variable is alot of fun to use but it only Varies from about 2-6 stops, i am not sure what kind of shooting you will be doing but this might be a limiting factor. It is also wider in the sense that the lens mount on the variable is thick so on wide angle lenses or lenses that have a problem with vignetting it will vignette further.

Variable ND filters are pretty nifty and a quality one will have you wondering why you bothered buying 2 or 3 separate ND filters, but than again it will never reach the stopping power of a 10 stop nd filter. Stacking a 10stop with a variable is amazing for long exposures.
It's 2-8 stops, and a 10 stop is just that: 10 stops, which limits you using anything less than that, unless you buy a combination of ND filters, which still runs you $400 for a set of quality filters.

i didnt realize the singhray was 2-8, the reason i didnt go with a variable when i was shopping for filters was not only the price but most of them seemed to end at 6 stops. If the singhray goes to 8 stops than it might be on my list of things to buy.
 
I was looking at that vari ND filter before. And saw this from their site


Quote from Signh-Ray site:

"NOTE: Due to the nature of the Vari-ND Filter, its "profile thickness" is significantly greater than most filters (14.2mm for standard mount, 10.5mm for thin mount). The profile thickness of either version may cause vignetting when used with wide-angle lenses, especially on cameras with full-frame sensors. Due to the vast number of combinations of cameras, lenses, and other factors, we can NOT predict under what circumstances vignetting will occur, and to what degree. We suggest simply adjusting your focal length, position, and/or composition to remove the vignetting -- use your digital camera's display for reference.

NOTE 2: The design of the Vari-ND Filter may introduce irregularities when used with very wide angle lenses, especially on full-frame cameras. Adjust your focal length and reduce the filter density setting until the irregularities disappear."



Does anyone has experience of this vari ND filter with the 10mm focal length on a cropped body?
 
I would refrain from buying a filter unless you consistently find yourself in need of one.

That's why I'm renting for two weeks. We're going to be shooting landscapes and whatnot mostly so I just don't want to get there (6 hour drive) and wish that I would have brought something. So I think I'm just going to rent a normal ND filter and a gradient ND filter for about a month. It's $40 combined so I think it's a good deal just to try them out.
 
I own B+W NDs... I own a 3 stop (which they call and ND 0.9 (every "0.3" worth is 1 full stop) as well as a 2 stop. You can stack them. Although you could also stack them with a polarizer since a polarizer usually takes about 2 stops of light. I suppose technically a polarizer is variable depending on the polarity of the inbound light and how you adjust the filter -- but usually 2 stops is the guideline. If you were to buy an ND and you were ONLY going to get one of them, then I'd go with a 3-stop filter... knowing that you can then stack a polarizer on for an extra 2 stops -- or just use a polarizer when you only want 2 stops reduction.

A higher quality ND filter will "evenly" reduce all wavelengths of light. A lower quality ND filter will sometimes tint the light to favor some color. And whenever you're putting glass in front of your glass, there's also the possibility of reflections, ghosting, flare, etc. so having anti-reflective coatings is a nice feature.

However... owning an ND filter (or a few) is a really good idea.

The ND filter changes your "shooting conditions". In bright light, you may find that even on the lowest ISO setting and the smallest aperture, that you still need a fast shutter speed in order to avoid over-exposing. But an ND filter would let you slow the shutter down without over-exposing. OR... maybe you want to open the aperture to a lower f-stop to decrease the DoF and improve background blur. The ND will let you do that too.

You can get really strong NDs (e.g. they make 10-stops and more). If, for example, you used a 10-stop ND filter in full-sun (Sunny-16 rule), then you're ISO 100, 1/125th shutter speed would drop to a full 8 seconds. That's a LOT of motion. OR... if you're shooting a photo of the building across a street and a car whizzes past, given that the total exposure time was 8 seconds, the car won't have been in the image long enough to even show up. Effectively a strong ND filter can make (moving) objects disappear (btw, it's so dark that you cannot see to focus. So you have to focus with the filter removed, then carefully put the filter back on being careful not to disturb the focus.)
 
You can get really strong NDs (e.g. they make 10-stops and more). If, for example, you used a 10-stop ND filter in full-sun (Sunny-16 rule), then you're ISO 100, 1/125th shutter speed would drop to a full 8 seconds. That's a LOT of motion. OR... if you're shooting a photo of the building across a street and a car whizzes past, given that the total exposure time was 8 seconds, the car won't have been in the image long enough to even show up. Effectively a strong ND filter can make (moving) objects disappear (btw, it's so dark that you cannot see to focus. So you have to focus with the filter removed, then carefully put the filter back on being careful not to disturb the focus.)


That is something that I never thought about, but it is exactly the same principle of some light painting techniques.
 

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