That is what most people say, or inclined to believe based on his reputation and his WORK. He was a "master" of the camera, the negative, and the print. I doubt there would be many to ARGUE "that point". But there would be some.. that would have different opinions. The zone system was an intricate explaination of a system that Ansel Adams used to expose film. I have read it. I don't understand much of it. It is too complicated for me. I like simple. Simple is easy to understand. I want to teach you something VERY SIMPLE, it is so simple, but it requires practice, and discipline, BEFORE you can feel comfortable using this method. it works with any film with the possible exception of "transparency film" becuase this type film requires exact exposure to within 1/2 stop. but once you UNDERSTAND how and why and with practice, this is also included, I have the results to prove it on this web site. My expertise is with one film: Kodak Vericolor Professional Film typs S now I will be truthful with you. I do not know what the word professional is refering to here.. the RESULTS? or the type people that this is designed for ? I once read these words in a book: Pick one film stick with it. LEARN how to USE that film. That sentence seemed very logical since there are just so many different types of films available by many different manufacurers. Vericolor film is in my opinion is the most fantastic film Kodak has ever "developed " (pun intended). This is.. as far as I know.. the ONLY FILM that is made to MATCH the original subject with Exacting colors. I like to think of Veri-color film as a "biblical" film! Jesus always used the words,, "Verily Verily" (truely truely) when He spoke to people.. Jesus is said to be "Very forgiving!" Veri-color film is the exact same way. Vericolor has such a wide lattitude, unsurpassed by any other film to the best of my knowledge, but then again, I haven't purchased any film in a lot of years and I have never ever tried Vericolor III. When using Vericolor film, it is so forgiviing you can be 3 stops over or under exposed and still get FANTASTIC results.! Kodak has phampets showing the difference and it is quite impressive to view. Well now just maybe that is the reason this works..?? But using any film (color) go outside and take a friend. PUT THAT FRIEND on a park bench. in bright sun w/distinct shadows. Take all the light readings you want. of the face, clothes, sky, ground etc. wirte them all down and LOOK. Now step back ten feet and shoot 250 F 8 100 ISO EV 15 Where did I get that number from ? Inside the carton of film. it is called a STARTING point. but they use a different number 125 @ F 11 EV 15 Take a challenge.. go out and shoot a roll of film at some park, in bright sunlight USING YOUR LIGHT METER and the "METHOD' that you are comfortable with, because you need these to be perfect.. for PROOF of what I am trying to explain. NOW.. do the same thing.. agian.. but turn off your light meter. FORGET IT.. now these images ARE NOT GOING TO BE EXPOSED with the same precise method you used before. your uncomfortable using this method. YOU DON'T KNOW YET... what is going to happen! WHY ? only because you havent paid attention and written EVERYTHING down, spent time looking at the photos with the exposure values etc. Because if you did.. YOU WOULD SEE something simillar.. with the DATA! Now do the same excercise but no light meter and take all the photos using the data supplied inside that box, and open f stop when necessary and close f stop when necessary . just by looking.. when you compare those two rolls of film.. I bet.. you will see one roll has negatives of different density and the other roll where you just "guessed" has all the same density all throughout the entire roll.? hm ? ! That is exactly how Kodak knew which numbers to put in side that box of film. NOW.. this takes practice, and OBSERVATON.. before you will become COMFORTABLE USING THIS. A professional newspapper reporter doesn't take the time or have the time to adjust, tinker, fiddle, etc. IF he / she is any good at what they do.. THEY HAVE LEARNED.. through experience.. how to shoot.."from the hip" If you have to tinker, fiddle, focus,adjust, etc.. YOU WILL MISS THAT once in a lifetime shot! but as you are walking down any street.. camera in hand.. looking at the light /shadows on that street, fingers on the aperture ring,.. someting is about to happen you LOOK, quick flick open f-stop 2 stops.. its more than 30 feet away.. flip lens focus ring over to infinity bring it up compose and shoot! you have that shot.! BUT YOU WILL LOOSE that shot if you have to fiddle about etc. now we have auto focus; auto expose; auto out-think... you can't adjust. let the camera do it all.. YOU WILL NEVER GET ANYPLACE IN THIS FIELD. Learn how to open your eyes. and look at "values" try this, you have nothing to loose, but so much to gain, I never take but one exposure when I am out taking "candid' photos and most of them sell. that is my #1 aim.. to make $$ from photography! So I can buy more equipment for my 4 sons. I don't shoot no more. I am disabled and blind. for all practical purposes. But my sons continue to shoot using the same methods I have taught them.. THIS IS ALL THEY KNOW. subject matter quick.. polar bear out on the ice bright sun distinct shadows you got 1/ 2 second to take the pic! oh.. ! oh well.. A kid with no experience.. just some words, his daddy taught him! -=click=- and a small chart in his pocket to look at. he has NO LIGHT METER.. .. -=click=- EVERY SHOT .. consistently exposed.. BECAUSE HE IS DOING THE SAME THING over and over and over again. USING A METER you will be always doing what that meter tells you what to do! Instead, I just walked up 250 @ F 11 -=click=- and move on to the next shot! I only shoot one frame, and move! what would you take the time to meter in this scene? and "why ? I am already half a mile away.. ".. .. Just like the barber said.. ... .. NEXT !" http://majikimaje.com/pbear.jpg but if your walking around with your camea set to what you need to use it at under the light conditions your viewing, then you know which way or what to do with the aperture ring BEFORE you compose that shot to -=click=- just by PRACTICNG THIS .. it won't be long before you feel very comfortable using this method.. THEN YOU CAN START: to learn. how to do the same thing. for cloudy days overcast days and raining days. Light is light & dark is dark. you either open your aperture or close it BASED ON YOUR STARTING POINT. BEFORE you ever get that camera up to your eyes to make the shot. I didin't learn this overnight.. but if you are ever going to LEARN how to SHOOT FROM THE HIP" then this is MUST TO LEARN! IT IS SIMPLE, it is foolproof, but it takes TIME to PRACTICE! & it takes time to LOOK and observe that "light", because it is changing all the time. Our photographs.. are sold in over 40 different countries, around the world, every year. I think I can say with some authority.. LEARN THIS METHOD! People .. .. ... like what they see.. and they pay for it. and take it home! that in itself.. says it ALL.