Macro Lens

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Ive always had an obsession with details. Fine details that is. I use to use a Nikon P500 for close up shots, BUT here recently i was given a D7000. So now my options for Macro has been opened up. My question to everyone is. Whats a decent Macro lens without breaking my bank.

Thank you for the responses in advance.
 
I really love my Tamron 90mm. Costs about 500 euros, I did a lot of testing with this and the Sigma 105 which costs about the same maybe a little less but I found the images and feel of the Tamron was slightly better also when I tested the for portraits the Tamron produced images far more pleasing. I have found it works quite well as a all round lens.

Maybe if you can specify the amount you are willing to spend and if you prefer taking pictures of little bugs that may get scared easily when close, or flowers that you can use a shorter focal length will make it a bit easier to narrow down a lens selection.
 
I really love my Tamron 90mm. Costs about 500 euros, I did a lot of testing with this and the Sigma 105 which costs about the same maybe a little less but I found the images and feel of the Tamron was slightly better also when I tested the for portraits the Tamron produced images far more pleasing. I have found it works quite well as a all round lens.

Maybe if you can specify the amount you are willing to spend and if you prefer taking pictures of little bugs that may get scared easily when close, or flowers that you can use a shorter focal length will make it a bit easier to narrow down a lens selection.

$1 to $500 is about my price range. I really dont have a specific liking to just one set of details. I like to get the fine details or everything. Things the human eye just cant see. Thank you for responding
 
I have the 60mm f/2.8G micro. As long as the subjects are not bothered by the lens being right up close then it works well and is within your budget. Plus would add a set of extension tubes front the start. Another option is to reverse mount a lens with an adapter, a suitable used lens and adapter could cost less than half of the 60mm macro lens.
You need to research how much magnification you want. A normal macro lens goes to 1:1 magnification.
 
I have the 40mm Micro AF-S for fun and quick shooting. And then my 105 Micro Ai for serious more deliberate shooting. Also picking up some Kenko tubes will work as well if you really want to get more into it.
 
I have the 40mm Micro AF-S for fun and quick shooting. And then my 105 Micro Ai for serious more deliberate shooting. Also picking up some Kenko tubes will work as well if you really want to get more into it.

I was looking at Kenko tubes to get started.
 
I have the 40mm Micro AF-S for fun and quick shooting. And then my 105 Micro Ai for serious more deliberate shooting. Also picking up some Kenko tubes will work as well if you really want to get more into it.

I was looking at Kenko tubes to get started.

Well it is a good place to just start, and decide how much further you want to go with it. You can use your Liveview to focus if you are using support, as you should when doing macro anyhow. If you plan on doing serious macro then manual focus is what you will be doing the majority of the time.
 
Tubes and a basic lens are the cheapest/easiest route IMO. Just get good ones (metal) with communication for metering and aperture control. (Kenko are good)

My favorite method is to use a tiny sensor camera adapted to a macro lens (Nikon1 V2/ Sigma 150)... but that isn't at all cheap.
 
Tubes and a basic lens are the cheapest/easiest route IMO. Just get good ones (metal) with communication for metering and aperture control. (Kenko are good)

My favorite method is to use a tiny sensor camera adapted to a macro lens (Nikon1 V2/ Sigma 150)... but that isn't at all cheap.

I have a few lens, 50 prime, 35 prime, 18 to 140, and a kit 55 to 300. Ill be ordering the Kenko tubes next week. I also just rented the Nikon lens mentioned in the earlier posts
 
You will get the greatest magnification with the shortest lens; it will also have the shortest working distance... Maximum magnification *only* occurs at the minimum focus distance.

The 50 is probably the one to use primarily. With a full stack (68mm extension) you will be a bit over 1:1 (+ crop factor).
 
You will get the greatest magnification with the shortest lens; it will also have the shortest working distance... Maximum magnification *only* occurs at the minimum focus distance.

The 50 is probably the one to use primarily. With a full stack (68mm extension) you will be a bit over 1:1 (+ crop factor).

Ive been all over the interwebz and even watched a 2 hour class on YouTube about macro photography. Learning the magnification equations. Quite interesting stuff!
 
Ive been all over the interwebz and even watched a 2 hour class on YouTube about macro photography. Learning the magnification equations. Quite interesting stuff!

Keep in mind that the more you magnify, the more it will cost. And it's not a linear increase, either.

If it costs you $1 to get 1:1, 2:1 will be $2. But 3:1 will not be $3, it will be $4. 4:1 will be $8, 5:1 will be $16.

OK, not precisely, but you get the idea.

Also, the more you magnify, the shallower your DOF will be. There are some tricks that can be utilized to increase DOF (other than 'stopping the lens down'). And not only will you be magnifying the subject, you will be magnifying any camera movement.
 
Extensions tubes will probably be the cheapest way to achieve macro, but still nothing like a dedicated macro lens.

Take a look at the Tokina 100 2.8, that lens is amazing for the price and its within your budget. You're on DX, so the 60 2.8G from Nikon would be an excellent choice too and you could pair it with some Kenko extension tubes and get even further than 1:1!

If you were shooting full frame, I'd recommend the Tokina 100 2.8 because of the working distance. But since you are using this on DX, I think the 60 2.8G would be a much better option. Nikon's 60 2.8G is razor sharp, one of Nikon's sharpest.
 

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