Newbie

It appears the focus point is the jump way in the back of the photo. While the OP was looking at the space above the rails in this jump, the camera focused further out. The horse moved into the shot but the camera didn't refocus. Could be focus was set to Center. Takes a while to get used to different focus settings.
 
Not be mean by why did you choose to use those 2 images as an example? Surely you had other images that were in focus?
 
I am going to a motocross race tomorrow and i am practicing the aperture and shutter priority modes, i dont have too much good results i would say...
 
For motocross, shutter priority. Depending on focal length, you'll need to adjust your shutter speed. Faster speed for longer lens. Follow the subject with the camera, don't hold the camera on a point and wait for something to move into the frame.

Very high shutter speed will freeze the motion, but using a little slower speed will give you motion blur. If you practice, you can pan with the subject as you shoot, and keep the subject relatively sharp while getting motion blur in the background. But you must be in shutter priority to have control over how much motion blur you end up with, or to eliminate it altogether.
 
For motocross, shutter priority. Depending on focal length, you'll need to adjust your shutter speed. Faster speed for longer lens. Follow the subject with the camera, don't hold the camera on a point and wait for something to move into the frame.

Very high shutter speed will freeze the motion, but using a little slower speed will give you motion blur. If you practice, you can pan with the subject as you shoot, and keep the subject relatively sharp while getting motion blur in the background. But you must be in shutter priority to have control over how much motion blur you end up with, or to eliminate it altogether.
For motocross, shutter priority. Depending on focal length, you'll need to adjust your shutter speed. Faster speed for longer lens. Follow the subject with the camera, don't hold the camera on a point and wait for something to move into the frame.

Very high shutter speed will freeze the motion, but using a little slower speed will give you motion blur. If you practice, you can pan with the subject as you shoot, and keep the subject relatively sharp while getting motion blur in the background. But you must be in shutter priority to have control over how much motion blur you end up with, or to eliminate it altogether.

i am trying to get photos with shutter priority but i get very dark photos...i am searching to see whats wrong.
 
Raise your ISO. If the shutter is TOO fast, then the camera can't select an aperture with enough light. You will probably see something in the viewfinder about low exposure, maybe the word "Lo" or something similar. To keep a fast shutter with insufficient light, you'll need a higher ISO.

If this is outdoors in sunlight, then 1/1000 second should be easy to get with even moderate ISO settings, but if it's indoors, or at night, then the light will be significantly lower, even though it doesn't look that way to your eye. You may need ISO to be 800 or 1600. Of course, higher ISO may bring the penalty of noise in the image, a "grainy" look. It's all a compromise, and depends on the camera's capability.
 
Hi everyone,

I am interested in learning how to make better photos. Please suggest me a book and an internet course that you think it may help me to achieve that.

Thank you in advance.



Not to be rude but, the topic has been covered in multiple threads virtually every day. I would have thought anyone signing on to the forum would have at least looked at the forum first. Had you looked, you would have seen these threads. You might want to spend some time looking.

If you had looked - and seen, you would have known that your question is so broad as to be asking, "How do I become a better person?" Wherever you are at in a process, you apply a plan. Buying a book isn't a plan.
Not to be rude, but the guy is new. Obviously he hasn't looked or he would not have made the post.
 
Hi everyone,

I am interested in learning how to make better photos. Please suggest me a book and an internet course that you think it may help me to achieve that.

Thank you in advance.



Not to be rude but, the topic has been covered in multiple threads virtually every day. I would have thought anyone signing on to the forum would have at least looked at the forum first. Had you looked, you would have seen these threads. You might want to spend some time looking.

If you had looked - and seen, you would have known that your question is so broad as to be asking, "How do I become a better person?" Wherever you are at in a process, you apply a plan. Buying a book isn't a plan.
Not to be rude, but the guy is new. Obviously he hasn't looked or he would not have made the post.


well maybe thats is why i name my post "Newbie" and maybe that is why I am posting in the begginers forum, not to be rude of course...lol
 
a faster lens would help a ton. it helps you isolate the background and hopefully really freeze the action.
tracking the subject as it moves works. Or else prefocus on an equidistant point.
 
I would look into buying a faster lens. I recently bought a 17-55mm f/2.8. It runs about $800 and is super easy to use, even for someone like me, who is relatively new too! Compared to what I've previously used, the focus is amazing and pretty fast.

Photography is mainly a hobby for me, but I did start a business for about 3 months. :1247: I agree with the comments about using the Manual mode, but I would first start with AV and TV and move your way up to Manual. I still haven't even mastered ISO settings yet *shyly awaits criticism*

What type of camera are you using? Good luck in taking more photographs, and don't be shy to showcase your work on here as you improve!
 
A 17-55mm probably won't be long enough for the type of photo's the op wants to take. Generally for these type of sports and action shot a fast telephoto is used.

Op - for this type of shot you'll want a fast shutter speed, large aperture (but small enough so your depth of field is not too thin). I normally use auto ISO for sports. The other thing you'll need to think about is what metering mode to use (I normally go for centre weighted average for this) and you'll want a continuous focusing mode as well. You'll also need to try out a few different variations of focus tracking and multiple AF points or wither you use a single AF point and track the subject yourself.

Top tip for these shots is shoot a little wider than you think and crop your image later in post. This gives you a bit more leeway with framing and composition.

Action photography can be a steep learning curve but it's worth learning.
 
There are number of courses and books available on internet. you can learn lots of things from the internet and books. I think you can spend some time on photography forums you get lots of knowledge about photography.
 
Raise your ISO. If the shutter is TOO fast, then the camera can't select an aperture with enough light. You will probably see something in the viewfinder about low exposure, maybe the word "Lo" or something similar. To keep a fast shutter with insufficient light, you'll need a higher ISO.

If this is outdoors in sunlight, then 1/1000 second should be easy to get with even moderate ISO settings, but if it's indoors, or at night, then the light will be significantly lower, even though it doesn't look that way to your eye. You may need ISO to be 800 or 1600. Of course, higher ISO may bring the penalty of noise in the image, a "grainy" look. It's all a compromise, and depends on the camera's capability.

Hi, I used shutter priority (set to 1000 ) and i set ISO in 1600 but photos were dark...
 
1/1000 may be too fast, then. Are you seeing the word "Lo" in the viewfinder in the metering information? Also, make sure your exposure compensation is set to 0.0. Exposure compensation lets you set your camera to underexpose or overexpose on purpose.
 

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