Panning FAQ

[BananaRepublic]

This may be a classic case of man nothing reading the instruction manual but can shutter speed be adjusted by half stops in SP mode, I don't know if thats the correct term I should use here. I have a Nikon d5100 and I find that when I want to pan I not get shutter speeds in between say 1/40 and 1/55. is there a way of getting theses. I'll admit that I not good enough to pan in manual with huge success.

Thanks,

Adice needed on workflow and catalogue issues Photography Forum

 

[petrochemist]

1/40 to 1/55 is less than 1/2 stop, I think it would be 1/3 stop (1 stop is a doubling/halfing of exposure time). It would take pretty unusual circumstances for finer control to be useful.
I suspect the d5100 is similar to my cameras in that there is a menu setting to decide if you want aperture/shutter speed control in full stops, 1/2 stops or 1/3 stops.

 

[BananaRepublic]

I will look for the menu. Sometimes whatever is moving is not going fast enough to match the speeds mentioned,

 

[petrochemist]

I've used speeds above 1/200s for some shots & down to 1/20s on others. Depending on subject matter & focal length, you need bigger changes in your shutter speed not smaller ones. Sometimes this will need variation in the cameras ISO to bring the speed within the exposure range that's available with your lenses apertures, in extreme cases you might want to add an ND filter..

 

[BananaRepublic]

I've used speeds above 1/200s for some shots & down to 1/20s on others. Depending on subject matter & focal length, you need bigger changes in your shutter speed not smaller ones. Sometimes this will need variation in the cameras ISO to bring the speed within the exposure range that's available with your lenses apertures, in extreme cases you might want to add an ND filter..

Thanks for the info I shall try out your suggestions.

 

[wfooshee]

You're talking about how to get the shutter speed you want and it's not happening.

Um, the easiest way to get the speed you want is to shoot shutter-priority or manual. If you're shooting aperture-priority or program (or even worse, on of the scene modes) you can't possibly expect to have any control of shutter speed.

 

[Braineack]

what are you panning that 1/50 to 1/55 is going to make a difference?

 

[BananaRepublic]

what are you panning that 1/50 to 1/55 is going to make a difference?

Sometimes with auto cross 1/35 is too slow and 1/60 is to fast. Maybe I just need to improve my technique but I don't find this with other things.

 

[Braineack]

post examples.

 

[petrochemist]

what are you panning that 1/50 to 1/55 is going to make a difference?

Sometimes with auto cross 1/35 is too slow and 1/60 is to fast. Maybe I just need to improve my technique but I don't find this with other things.

Panning needs a lot of practice & involves quite a few failures, so sometimes 1/60s would seem too slow, while on the very next bike 1/35s is fine...

Even after years of pratice I still take plenty of shots that are both too fast to get the degree of movement I want & yet too slow to come out sharp. Generally with racing cars on a track I start about 1/125 and then work my way to longer shutter speeds. I rarely get any keepers at 1/25 but I think it has happened, I've only tried slower speeds with pedestrians as targets.

 

[BananaRepublic]

post examples.

I will but I do need advice on another separate yet relevant issue,
Adice needed on workflow and catalogue issues Photography Forum

 

[Braineack]

its not relevant at all.

 

[BananaRepublic]

its not relevant at all.

Well it is as you asked for photos and I would post them but since I am having a bit of an issue with my library I want to get that right which would intern allow me to post new images.

You could have just said if what I was proposing was the correct thing to do.

 

[BananaRepublic]

I was asked to post some examples of what I was panning. At the time I felt that default shutter speeds in the bracket I wanted weren't right when the things being shot are not consistence in there speeds, mph, and I wanted to know how to achieve more variable control over your shutter, without going full manual. Some shots like the first are down to timing but the others I thought are an a better example.
View attachment 107357 View attachment 107358 View attachment 107359 View attachment 107360 View attachment 107361

 

[Braineack]

I think your shutter is too slow for this type of shot. You're at a relatively shot focal length, so you're moving your camera significantly to match the speed as the bike comes around in front of you.

I would have started these at around ~1/250sec and worked my way down. Depending on the speed and distance, you don't need a super slow shutter to get a blurred background. Going in hog wild at 1/40 is going to lead to a full trash bin.

Then, I'd consider an ND in this situation as some shots at 1/40sec and f/22. That's going to cut down on sharpness on an already tough shot to achieve sharpness on. And it's also leading to a distracting background since it's so close to the subject and still within the DOF. Just appears to be too bright to be shooting such a long shutter without anything cutting down the light better.


With better processing and a more intersting crop, panning5 could still be really cool despite it not being sharp.


here's a random example of a shot I did at 1/180sec.


#611 Panning by The Braineack, on Flickr

plently of BG blur and this was only 150mm. You don't NEED 1/40sec or 1/45 or 1/51 or 1/52