Question on Aperture Priority

[PhilCF]

Aperture priority is really useful in theory when all you want to think about it depth of field.

BUT... If handheld, the shutter needs to stay at least the same speed as the focal length. 50mm = 1/50 shutter etc.

So how do you use aperture priority when handheld without the camera surprising you with a really slow shutter and you then coming out with really soft shots?

Thanks in advance !

 

[goooner]

Well you should see what shutter speed the camera chooses, before clicking. If you think it is too slow, then use manual with Auto ISO. I almost always shoot in manual with auto ISO.

 

[weepete]

You use it in situations where you have time to check the shutter speed, use it in situations to get the fastest shutter speed (accepting that it may vary and you might get some blurred shots) or do what a lot of use do and use auto iso as the variable.

 

[petrochemist]

You have to consider the light
Often it's just a case of checking the shutter speed in the viewfinder, Sometimes I use it as a 'I need as much light as possible' mode i.e. set aperture wide open.

BTW the shutter speed rule you where quoting (use no slower than the reciprocal of your focal length) is a guideline that is modified by stabilization & personal technique/steadiness. There are photographers who will normally achieve good images at speeds 2 stops slower than this rule, pretty much all of us can manage that on rare occasions.

 

[stk]

Outside in not so demanding lighting conditions I'll use aperture priority with auto ISO. In my camera, I can then set the minimum shutter speed either manually or let the camera figure it out for me based on the focal length (this can also be adjusted).

Anyway; I doesn't matter witch program you use or whats auto or not. The only thing that matters is that you get the correct exposure and a picture with your preferred level of motion blur, noise and depth of field. And to be sure of that; you'll have to take a glance at the numbers before the shot.

 

[astroNikon]

Aperture priority is really useful in theory when all you want to think about it depth of field.

BUT... If handheld, the shutter needs to stay at least the same speed as the focal length. 50mm = 1/50 shutter etc.

So how do you use aperture priority when handheld without the camera surprising you with a really slow shutter and you then coming out with really soft shots?

Thanks in advance !

The answer varies on the type of photography, and who you ask. LOL

I tend to shoot in Manual a lot. That is because I want to control the Shutter Speed and the Aperture to specific settings. You can also set limits in Aperture/Shutter Priority to keep those in certain limits too. But all while knowing that your ISO will be the varying factor (which I have limits on that too) all while knowing that if the lighting conditions are outside all of those parameters that you'll have to compensate one way or another to get a shot (either by allowing a certain parameter less than ideal or adding light).

Each particular situation can be different. So one specific answer without a very specific scenario can't really be answered well.
something to read ==> Camera Exposure: Aperture, ISO & Shutter Speed

Do you have an example photo for us to talk about how to improve that type of shot ?

 

[Braineack]

So how do you use aperture priority when handheld without the camera surprising you with a really slow shutter and you then coming out with really soft shots?

you can also typically set a min shutter speed, by default most use 1/60. Mine's set to 1/200.

 

[dunfly]

Aperture priority is really useful in theory when all you want to think about it depth of field.

This is the problem right here. Depth of field is never "all you want to think about". I shoot aperture priority 90% of the time unless there is a specific reason I want to use shutter priority (stop or blur action), or need to use manual in situations the camera is not giving me the right exposure readings. I first set the aperture at the stop I want for the scene, check the shutter speed before I click and adjust ISO, if I need to, to get minimum shutter speed I need. That way, I am in complete control of the exposure.

 

[jcdeboever]

I primarily shoot in this mode on my digital camera. I think of the sunny 16 rule and adjust my ISO to the scene. I have shot enough film now so I just think of ISO in digital as gaining adequate shutter speed, 2x the focal length of lens being used, good for hand holding. So shooting fast moving subjects, I increase the ISO to gain the proper shutter speed to freeze the action.

 

[Braineack]

I first set the aperture at the stop I want for the scene, check the shutter speed before I click and adjust ISO, if I need to, to get minimum shutter speed I need. That way, I am in complete control of the exposure.

same here.

aperture first -- for the picture at hand. check SS second. and then determine ISO last based on that (unless auto iso).

 

[john.margetts]

Shutter speed is displayed in the viewfinder for a reason. I always have a quick check on all the info in the viewfinder before pressing the shutter release - shutter speed, ISO, EC, focus confirmation.

 

[AlanKlein]

What camera are you using?

 

[Dave442]

I feel that it helps to be aware of how much light is going to be in the frame and how much light is on the subject - before raising the camera to take a picture. Evaluate the scene based on light available for what you are shooting. This will help guide you to set an ISO ahead of time that should cover your worst case scenario - or the limit on how high of ISO you want to go to. So now you have an idea that you may have to go to say ISO 3200 - but for most of the time you can be at ISO 400 - just when you need to keep the shutter speed from dropping too low you know you can bump up three stops on the ISO.

In actual shooting you are doing as Braineack noted: set aperture, check SS then determine ISO - but for me it helps to have established some limits. I don't want to shoot 300 shots at an event at just a stop below the max ISO of the camera just because 20% of the shots required that setting - but I'm prepared to go there to keep the shutter speed acceptable based on the DOF required. The conditions are going to change so the evaluation process is ongoing - better to be evaluating conditions and what is happing around you rather than constant chimping. Others that use Auto ISO are also establishing limits when they initially set the Auto ISO range. Some cameras also let you set what your minimum shutter speed limit is - so again it is something to set based on anticipated need and then adjusted if required based on current conditions shooting conditions.

 

[Derrel]

Aperture in large part determines the "kind" of picture you want to end up with. Using small apertures like f/22,or f/16, or f/11 is common when shooting close-up shots where you NEED to have fairly deep depth of field,and expert photographers will stop the lens down when that is what is needed. Shooting at large apertures, like f/1.8 or f/2 or f/2.8 means that the DOF will be trending toward "as shallow as is possible" for many lenses, and that means the picture will likely have only one plane with crisp focus, and the other depths/distances will be pretty well de-focused. Apertures in the in-between zones, like f/4.5 to f/7.1 or so are commonly used for many types of shots.

But, really, using Aperture Priority is a lot like driving a 4-speed manual or 5-speed manual transmission...you pretty much KNOW, based on experience, what the numerical selector "does" in terms of the final speed over ground.

 

[Missyismyname]

Aperture in large part determines the "kind" of picture you want to end up with. Using small apertures like f/22,or f/16, or f/11 is common when shooting close-up shots where you NEED to have fairly deep depth of field,and expert photographers will stop the lens down when that is what is needed. Shooting at large apertures, like f/1.8 or f/2 or f/2.8 means that the DOF will be trending toward "as shallow as is possible" for many lenses, and that means the picture will likely have only one plane with crisp focus, and the other depths/distances will be pretty well de-focused. Apertures in the in-between zones, like f/4.5 to f/7.1 or so are commonly used for many types of shots.

But, really, using Aperture Priority is a lot like driving a 4-speed manual or 5-speed manual transmission...you pretty much KNOW, based on experience, what the numerical selector "does" in terms of the final speed over ground.