Tips For Shooting When You're In The Shade But The Background In Sun

Since I have been only using Sony SLR's(mirror and Translucent), I don't know the capabilities of other brands. Sony software handles the problems y'all are talking about "in camera". There are two modes: the first is 5 levels of available dynamic range optimization, and the second is 6 levels of high dynamic range. These pretty well solve the shade/sunlight problems that are mentioned in this thread. If your Nikon or Canon does not have these features, I cannot add to what others have suggested to fix the problem of high levels of light differentials in a frame. If you use Sony and have these options, try them out if you haven't already.
pretty sure that is the Bracketing feature mentioned earlier.

The optimizer function takes requires just one shutter activation. The HDR function takes, with one touch, three consecutive shutter activations consisting of one normal f stop, 1 to 6 stops darker and 1 to 6 stops lighter. These are processed within the camera to produce a final HDR image. No post processing required.
 
The optimizer function takes requires just one shutter activation. The HDR function takes, with one touch, three consecutive shutter activations consisting of one normal f stop, 1 to 6 stops darker and 1 to 6 stops lighter. These are processed within the camera to produce a final HDR image. No post processing required.

Can you get a raw file or is that only jpg?
 
Reflector and blow out the background.
 
The optimizer function takes requires just one shutter activation. The HDR function takes, with one touch, three consecutive shutter activations consisting of one normal f stop, 1 to 6 stops darker and 1 to 6 stops lighter. These are processed within the camera to produce a final HDR image. No post processing required.

Can you get a raw file or is that only jpg?
from what I've read ... JPEG
you can do RAW+JPG but the Raw files does not contain the processed highlights and shadow recovery that are saved in the JPEG.
 
The above options seem to cover it quite well. If the background doesn't matter it can be blown (use spot metering), otherwise added light works best (either via flash or reflectors) but HDR techniques can be made to work.
One final option that COULD be used but I wouldn't recommend would be to fit a screen behind the subject to darken the background...
This is of course assuming your subject is in shadow (you never actually stated this), If the subject is also in sunlight there no problem at all :)
 
I didn't understand if they were taking a picture of people or not in the tree shade. If people were involved bracketing techniques might not do well as people cannot stand still enough for multiple images, which would need more post processing.
 
I didn't understand if they were taking a picture of people or not in the tree shade. If people were involved bracketing techniques might not do well as people cannot stand still enough for multiple images, which would need more post processing.

The actual setting was on a deck with a narrow band of deep shade provided by the building and involved people. I didn't want a completely black background, nor did I want the "bright" blown out look. Was able to reach a compromise with the use of two speedlights and reflectors.
 

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