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35 mm Equivalance ...meaning

There has always been a crop factor of sorts, even before digital came along. A 50mm lens will provide different results on a 35mm, 645, or 8x10 view camera for instance. But if you only shot one of those formats, the other results were of no consequence, also, lenses weren't marketed as "XXmm, equivalent to XXmm in XX format", you knew what was wide, normal, or tele for whatever format you shot. The crap factor was put out there by camera makers to sell more glass by confusing newer photogs into thinking there was a difference between lenses for film vs. digital (aside from the smaller image circle), it's to trick you into thinking you need lenses designed for digital. If you never shot 35mm, the crap factor is useless info, you have no point of reference! Also, I'd challenge ANYONE that thinks the crop factor is "vital info" to be able to tell if a print was captured on film with a 16mm fisheye, or with a 10mm on a crop sensor!
 
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It's important to let people who are just starting out know the difference. We don't want them thinking they're new 50mm f1.8G is an 85mm lens(79mm or whatever). Also that they may think they are getting more "reach" at 300mm on a crop body vs a 35mm frame.

That's EXACTLY what the "crop factor" is meant to do, confuse people!
 
So "Exchange Rate" is meant to confuse people who deal with money issues between countries, "Time Zones" are designed to confound travelers, "Wind Chill" is supposed to make us feel colder while "Heat Indexes" are supposed to make us feel more miserable in the heat............and f/stops were created to confuse all of us.
 
Quick, tell me which one worried about the different FOV they'd get from different formats, and I'll tell you which one is the better photographer

Fixed.

Just because it doesn't effect your decision now, doesn't mean that it never will. Better to be educated on a subject and never need to know it, then be ignorant to it and make an expensive mistake.

It's funny, the uneducated like to use the term "geek" to put down the well informed.
 
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Quick, tell me which one worried about the different FOV they'd get from different formats, and I'll tell you which one is the better photographer

Fixed.

Just because it doesn't effect your decision now, doesn't mean that it never will. Better to be educated on a subject and never need to know it, then be ignorant to it and make an expensive mistake.

It's funny, the uneducated like to use the term "geek" to put down the well informed.

WHO THE F**K ARE YOU TO EDIT MY POST ASSHOLE!!
 
So "Exchange Rate" is meant to confuse people who deal with money issues between countries, "Time Zones" are designed to confound travelers, "Wind Chill" is supposed to make us feel colder while "Heat Indexes" are supposed to make us feel more miserable in the heat............and f/stops were created to confuse all of us.

Well, Exchange Rates and Time Zones DO confuse people all the time. As for the rest, I don't think most people need wind chill OR heat index numbers to know when it's hot or cold. Nor do you need to know "crop factors" when you look through your lens to compose a shot, ESPECIALLY with a zoom. Sure, some of you "educated" folk may see a need, but those of us with common sense (which ironically ISN'T all that common), just look through the viewfinder and press the shutter release!
 
Well, Exchange Rates and Time Zones DO confuse people all the time. As for the rest, I don't think most people need wind chill OR heat index numbers to know when it's hot or cold. Nor do you need to know "crop factors" when you look through your lens to compose a shot, ESPECIALLY with a zoom. Sure, some of you "educated" folk may see a need, but those of us with common sense (which ironically ISN'T all that common), just look through the viewfinder and press the shutter release!

Man, if you get your skivvies in a knot over crop factors, I wouldn't want to engage you in a conversation about exposure values, aspect ratios, white balance or hyperfocal distance.
 
Try to keep it civil people - and also try to get some perspective; its a talk about crop factors not about life and death things
 
Try to keep it civil people - and also try to get some perspective; its a talk about crop factors not about life and death things

So you're OK with someone quoting a post, but changing what that post actually said?? What kind of forum are you running here??
 
but actually is it a right idea to compare a lens using crop factor?

coz a lens with 200 mm zoom will never show the same frame (@200mm) as the lens with 300mm zoom will produce @300 mm
 
So you're OK with someone quoting a post, but changing what that post actually said?? What kind of forum are you running here?? I'm new to this forum and Internerd thingie.

Yes you are. :P

I have a 35-70mm f2.8D lens that I use as my primary walk around lens. It's an older full frame lens so on my D7000, FOV is about 52-105mm. Why the heck do I need to know this? As a person taking pictures and wanting to get better, I want to know/understand the limitations of my equipment to adjust accordingly. What do you mean by adjust accordingly? Well in this case, I won't be bringing my actual 18-105mm lens but probably will take my 10-24mm lens instead.
 
Also, I'd challenge ANYONE that thinks the crop factor is "vital info" to be able to tell if a print was captured on film with a 16mm fisheye, or with a 10mm on a crop sensor!

depth of field is different in 10mm and 16mm. Check here: Depth of Field Table
If you need shallow depth of field, better to go FF.
Of course, you may produce pictures that cannot be recognised, but this is true for any sensor, just by choosing the lowest common denominator.
 
............Also, I'd challenge ANYONE that thinks the crop factor is "vital info" to be able to tell if a print was captured on film with a 16mm fisheye, or with a 10mm on a crop sensor!

Again, if it makes no difference to you, then don't worry about it. Let the rest of us continue to learn and improve our images.

It makes no difference to me what gear someone else used to create an image, so long as they obtained the image they wanted. Yet in order to do that, I would hope they learn as much about their gear as they can. I may want to know some of the specifics about it, and routinely read the exif data if it's available. That can be used to determine the camera, lens setting, and ultimately the FOV.

I don't care what brand of instrument a musician chooses to create his/her music with, but I'm sure it makes a difference to them. I also have no doubt that other musicians discuss such matters.
 
but actually is it a right idea to compare a lens using crop factor?

coz a lens with 200 mm zoom will never show the same frame (@200mm) as the lens with 300mm zoom will produce @300 mm

Yes it can, if the two lenses are used with different size sensors.

Some people find 35 mm equivalent to be useful when selecting a lens and some don't. Why is there an argument?
 
So you're OK with someone quoting a post, but changing what that post actually said?? What kind of forum are you running here?? I'm new to this forum and Internerd thingie.

Yes you are. :P

I have a 35-70mm f2.8D lens that I use as my primary walk around lens. It's an older full frame lens so on my D7000, FOV is about 52-105mm. Why the heck do I need to know this? As a person taking pictures and wanting to get better, I want to know/understand the limitations of my equipment to adjust accordingly. What do you mean by adjust accordingly? Well in this case, I won't be bringing my actual 18-105mm lens but probably will take my 10-24mm lens instead.

(edited for vulgar language)
 
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