action shots?

TriciaTexas · Jan 14, 2013

I'm new to photography and am devouring all that I can via the internet with the hopes of taking a continuing ed class later this year. I have a Canon T3i with 18-55 kit lens as well as a 50mm 1.4. I've been tinkering around learning by trial and error. But-my work (non-photography) got wind of my new hobby and has asked me to take (non-professional,obviously) pictures of our event THIS WEEKEND. I'm suddenly up against a deadline of needing knowledge and was hoping here would be a good place to turn.

I'll be taking pictures of people running (it's a race) outside between the hours of 8am-12pm in Florida. As well as the runners celebrating post-race. I'm most nervous about the action shots. Could someone get me started on basic settings for early morning to afternoon light and action? Then I can tinker around from there. Thanks!

It's possible I can plop down a bit more $$ for a new lens (~$600) but would prefer not to do that until I get a better feel for what kind of photography interests me. Thanks!

manicmike · Jan 14, 2013

Throw the camera in Shutter priority or whatever Canon's equivalent is and set it at 1/1000. That should give you a decent starting point for not knowing a whole lot. If the pics are dark, up the ISO.

480sparky · Jan 14, 2013

Me..... I'd set the camera to Aperture Priority (I think Canon uses AV for that). Set the ISO to the highest level you're willing to accept, and the aperture to the smallest that will get you enough DOF to nail focus. Now, whatever the lighting conditions will be, the camera will set the highest shutter speed possible. Whether it's 1/250, 1/500, 1/60, 1/2,000.......

cgipson1 · Jan 14, 2013

^What Sparky said... this is good!

gw2424 · Jan 14, 2013

You could rent a lens...You don't need much; a 55-250 would do. Stop it down to 7.1, ISO 200 and shoot in Av.

gw2424 · Jan 14, 2013

55-250 for $120 delivered on Friday.

Canon EF s 55 250mm F 4 0 5 6 Is Lens 0013803079371 | eBay

Rick50 · Jan 14, 2013

Seems we all have an opinion here. I agree with Mike except I would try 1/500 and set the ISO on Auto. If you are getting blur from the running then try 1/1000. I would also use the 50mm lens and get in close.

nycphotography · Jan 14, 2013

If you can hit the focus / autofocus on the moving targets, the std formula for sports is:

aperture priority mode
wide open aperture (f2.8 to f5.6, as available w/ your lenses)
enough ISO to keep the shutter speed up (but Florida at noon you should do fine at ISO 400)

If you're afraid you may miss the focus, you'll want to stop down some (say f/8 to f/11) which may require a little higher ISO.

Take the camera out and practice in this mode using other moving targets. dogs at the park, joggers, whatever, and see how you do.

vintagesnaps · Jan 14, 2013

I've done sports photography for marketing purposes for a local team, and it seems like it could be a challenge having your workplace expecting you to shoot sports/action if you're fairly new to photography, but at least they seem to know it's a new hobby so hopefully you can enjoy the event and get some nice shots.

Anyway, I agree you'd want to use a fairly fast shutter speed, 1/250 minimum and at least 1/500 or 1/1000 would be better to freeze action. I'd probably use a smaller aperture if you're getting group shots of several runners so they'd all be in focus (a larger aperture could work for more close up shots). As mentioned the ISO would need to be adjusted as needed so your camera will be set at a fast enough shutter speed. I usually use manual settings so I use the meter to tell me where to set the shutter speed and aperture.

I'd suggest you go early and take some test shots so you can get your camera set for the existing light. Maybe you can find out ahead of time where you'd be able to stand and take photos, so you can get some test shots from that vantage point and be ready to go when the race starts.

I think a lot of shooting sports involves timing. I've done a lot of hockey (and some youth basketball) and one technique that works for me is to get set and focused on a particular point such as the net, then wait for the action to come to me (into my viewfinder). Then I can adjust my focus as needed before I releaase the shutter. Of course for a race you wouldn't have the play stopping and starting so maybe depending how long the race is you can find more than one vantage point where you can find a stationary object to focus on to be ready when the runners get to that spot.

For a race a couple of ideas might be to get where the runners will start and then later move to a spot near the finish line; or see if they want photos of other events happening there (maybe a sign with the company's name, crowd shots, dignitaries, etc.). When I was doing photos of signage I tried to double check my framing and make sure lettering appeared straight and not cut off, and I found they liked crowd shots of people having fun at their event.

Hope you have fun with it!

TCampbell · Jan 14, 2013

VERY IMPORTANT: Change the focus mode to "AI Servo" (check your manual if you don't know how to do that.)

The default behavior of your camera uses "One Shot" focus mode. That means when you half-press the shutter, the camera will focus, meter, and be prepared to shoot. It wont actually take the shot until you fully press the shutter. BUT... once it locks focus it's done. The focusing system switches off and the camera believes it's ready to shoot. The PROBLEM is that the subject hasn't stopped moving... so the focus distance keeps changing and they are no longer at the distance where the camera initially locked focus.

If you change to "AI Servo" mode, the camera will continuously check focus (it wont stop until you actually take the shot). It even uses "predictive" focus. For example it notices that the subject keeps getting closer over time. It determines that your subject has a direction and speed and this actually helps the camera predict where the subject will be each moment. The focusing mode is designed for sports, action, or any type of shooting where you expect the subject will not remain still.

When you're done, don't forget to change the focus BACK to "One Shot" mode. Leaving it in AI Servo mode will cause the camera to keep re-focusing and if the subject isn't actually moving, the camera might test focus by moving it and moving it back... and you can get a blurry shot.

There is no single "all purpose" mode. There is a mode called "AI Focus" which "tests" the subject to determine if it's moving or not... and if it determines the subject isn't moving it'll behave as if it's in "One Shot" mode and if it is moving it'll behave like it's in "AI Servo" mode, but the problem with that mode is that it takes the camera a moment to decide which mode it's in... and that in itself causes a delay.

Use "One Shot" mode for non-moving subjects.
Use "AI Servo" mode for moving subjects.
I don't recommend you use "AI Focus" mode because of the delay while the camera evaluates.

Also... the 18-55mm kit lens doesn't have the fast USM focusing motor. For fast moving subjects it might not keep up with the rate that your subjects are moving -- it really depends on just how fast things are changing. The 50mm f/1.4 does have a faster USM focusing motor and should be able to keep up with the action.

For subjects moving toward you (or away from you) often a shutter speed of just 1/250th will be fast enough to capture a sharp shot and not notice the motion blur. For subjects moving sideways relative to the camera (e.g. left to right but the distance remains roughly the same) faster speeds are usually required... usually 1/500th will be fast enough.

If these are outdoor shots in full sun you'll have no problem. At ISO 100 and f/5.6 you'll probably find you can use shutter speeds of 1/800th. If you bump up to ISO 200 you could change to f/8 to increase the depth of field. If it's a light overcast day then I'd probably go up to ISO 400. On a medium overcast I'd go up to 800.