Adjusting Light Intensity on Speedlites without variable power

[Mike_E]

Years ago, a rather dickish photographer asked me if my studio strobes had one-tenth f/stop power control. I said "Yeah...I grab the light stand and I move the light back or forward and inch and a half."

That's a good one.

I really wasn't trying to be that way I was simply pointing out that if he's (?) going to spend money he'd be better off going ahead and spend his money on something he'd be happier with.

I'm out.

 

[Derrel]

Years ago, a rather dickish photographer asked me if my studio strobes had one-tenth f/stop power control. I said "Yeah...I grab the light stand and I move the light back or forward and inch and a half."

That's a good one.

I really wasn't trying to be that way I was simply pointing out that if he's (?) going to spend money he'd be better off going ahead and spend his money on something he'd be happier with.

I'm out.

Oh, I know you were not "trying to be that way" Mike...that's not your style, whatsoever. Totally understood. My point was simply that a LOT of people are hung up on this idea of precise, small-increment control, as in down to the tenth of an f/stop...when in the "real world", things like moving the light back or forward a little bit are quite often all the "adjustment" needed. On speedlights, we used to have only full-stop incremental control...today people often expect third-stop control with the digital interfaces so common on new, high-tech lights.

 

[amolitor]

A really COOL thing is that with a view camera (or anything that can be racked way out, see also Mamyia C series), when working close up, to compensate for bellows extension factor you can move the lights forward in proportion to the bellows extension, and it all works out correctly.

 

[andrewkurcan]

What Darrel said.

You can get neutral density filters that will do the same thing but by the time you pay for those you'll be well on your way to a new one that adjusts.

99% of the time spending the money to get what you want in the first place will save you about twice whatever it costs.

Sucks, but it's true.

I don't necessarily agree with this. You can also buy ND gel - it's pretty cheap. Alternatively make some lighting scrims with metal screen - one layer is called a "single scrim", two layers set 45 degrees off of each other is called a "double scrim". There is also diffusion gel that you can drop in front of the strobe head that will help in your situation. I came into photo via television/film lighting - while an expensive flexible light source is amazing - cheap ones work, you are truly only limited by your ingenuity.

The last time I checked they were about $15 a sheet. Two sheets, 1/4 and 1/2, would run you around $30 plus shipping, or gas in my case, and that's about half of a new Yongnuo.

Just sayin

Yea... but unless you're trying to ND an old stage scoop, a sheet will last you a looooong time. You cut the gel for the head .

 

[andrewkurcan]

True but coming from a recovering DIY nut it really is cheaper, better and easier over the long run to just go ahead and save up for the right equipment.

Sure you can improvise -I brought up ND gels too, remember?- and in a pinch sometimes it's all you can do but spending on the gels (even free ones) and the tape and the this and the that and then keeping up with all of it along with keeping up with the amount you have on hand to make sure you can do a shot... in the end after answering the OP's immediate question don't you feel that we should also point out the Best Workable solution?

Telling someone that they need to just go spend money isn't always the answer and sometimes their spending any extra just isn't doable (been there, done that) but pointing out something as affordable as a third party flash is, in this case I think, called for.

Sorry to sound argumentative here, I do understand how much you can learn from cobbling things together for yourself but to go on about more complex options to someone who has just begun their experience is being cart-first.

Ok. I understand that viewpoint, and for some it can/does work. And i preface this with an early background in film lighting.... I don't view gels and modifiers as cobbling it together - it's standard lighting practice... when you go on location; be it for film, television, or a photo shoot, you bring color correction gels, diffusion, silks, scrims, and other modifiers - even with variable power units on hand. You do this even today, mainly because the effects of an ND filter are different than powering down the unit. Just as diffusion is different than moving the light back. The effects are noticeable and unique.


I love strobist culture, and use speedlights extensively in my personal and commercial work - but the answer is not always to go out an buy more gear. Sometimes it's use what you have, and learn how to make it flexible. Then again - I'd kill for a profoto kit AND all the gel that's made

 

[Mike_E]

Sooooooooo....new guy to off-camera flash/strobes/monolights...whatever you might call it.

Here's my setup:
Canon Rebel T3
Two 33" White Shoot-through Umbrellas or Brollyboxes
Canon Speedlite 155a
Sunpak Digiflash 3000

Flashes on 7 foot stands.

My issue is that I can't turn down the power (1/2, 1/4, 1/8...) on the flashes because they aren't equipped to do so. The 155a has a auto/man/auto switch, but doesn't adjust power significantly. The Sunpak only has On/Off, therefore I cannot adjust power. It does have a zoom, but I'm not looking to diffuse light. I'm looking to reduce power. So what are my options for reducing the power so that I have control? My friend suggested an ND filter, but I would either have to use an ND Variable filter or have a bag full, then compensate for underexposure. Are there gels/diffusers that I can use to reduce power?

Thanks!!

Again, there many ways to skin this cat BUT if the OP can swing it a couple of less than 25 year old flashes would be the simplest answer rather than trying to learn and successfuly use an extra five or fifteen pieces of gear; and if you put any stock in Occam's Razor ("Entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily.") What is Occam's Razor? the simple answer is also the best.

Especially since he's already expressed that he's not particularly interested in using and keeping up with them ('having a bag full').