Anyone have a rifle scope?

[zeroskillz]

This thread is still around? Oh good lord, looky where the conversations one. Veggie crap gives me the farts. That's about all I have to say about that.

Anyhow, I think I may have to pull out my EBR and give this a try just for fun.

Alrighty, here you go:

(Nikon D90, f3.5, 18mm, 1/8, iso800, not that any of that is particularly relevant)

My scopes minimum distance to get the crosshairs and 'target' in focus on the same plane is 50 yards, and my house isn't hat big, so that's why the wall isn't in focus. The rifle was rested in the table (bipod and some books to get it pointed at something), and getting the camera into the 'sweet' spot really wasn't that difficult. It would be real hard to do it without having the rfle rested on something.

good luck!
-Ted

 

[dEARlEADER]

This thread is still around? Oh good lord, looky where the conversations one. Veggie crap gives me the farts. That's about all I have to say about that.

Anyhow, I think I may have to pull out my EBR and give this a try just for fun.

Alrighty, here you go:

(Nikon D90, f3.5, 18mm, 1/8, iso800, not that any of that is particularly relevant)

My scopes minimum distance to get the crosshairs and 'target' in focus on the same plane is 50 yards, and my house isn't hat big, so that's why the wall isn't in focus. The rifle was rested in the table (bipod and some books to get it pointed at something), and getting the camera into the 'sweet' spot really wasn't that difficult. It would be real hard to do it without having the rfle rested on something.

good luck!
-Ted

Excellent!! This is pretty much the result I am looking for.... thanks for taking the time.

 

[KD5NRH]

Excellent!! This is pretty much the result I am looking for.... thanks for taking the time.

Just had a thought; get a piece of tubing or some such, and some scope rings that can be mounted to it. Add a 1/4x20 stud at the back end, and figure out some spacers to center the scope eyepiece in the lens, and you should be able to rig an easily carried and aimed mount for a good P&S, while you keep your SLR ready for 'normal' shots.

 

[terri36 7]

Please stay on topic or this thread will disappear. That would be a shame, because there is good information here, whether it will be used by many people or not. But I don't have the time to root through it again.

Thank you for your cooperation.

 

[chrisburke]

Please stay on topic or this thread will disappear. That would be a shame, because there is good information here, whether it will be used by many people or not. But I don't have the time to root through it again.

Thank you for your cooperation.

thanks ref, good job keepin us inline.. i think many of us were waiting for one of you to chime in

 

[table1349]

Please stay on topic or this thread will disappear. That would be a shame, because there is good information here, whether it will be used by many people or not. But I don't have the time to root through it again.

Thank you for your cooperation.

Thank you.

 

[RacePhoto]

I think it depends on the scope. Cheap ones aren't that great but a good scope has superb optical qualities! Up around $200 and over (you can pay $2,000 for a nice scope!) and you're talking as good or better than most 35mm camera lenses! :thumbup:

I have a Nikon ProStaff and a Leupold VX-III ($200 and $900 respectively) that I like a lot!

Wow, I didn't realize that instead of buying my Canon IS/USM lenses for $1000 to $3000, I should just be picking up a $200 scope that's as good or better. :er:

I know what you are trying to say, but the average scope is NOT as good as an average camera lens.

For the purposes of the project, the visual through the scope doesn't need to be crisp and clear, unless someone is fudging it with a crosshair layer. The actual scope image adds to the effect as far as I'm concerned.

I still think that photoshop or elements would do a fine job of creating this effect, just make a second image resized slightly larger, add a crosshair and merge it over the original shot.

Or possibly take two shots, one sharp and one soft focus, put the sharp one as the scope view and the soft one as the background. You would have complete control over the lighting in both.

Similar to dropping a nice Moon into a scenic shot, where it would be impossible to expose both correctly and have that nice big orange hunters Moon in the sky, at the same time.

Just to go along with the original question, I've shot through sun glasses as polarizers with a P&S, shot through binnoculars and hand held lenses on front of the camera to create effects, you don't need to mount anything, just aim and shoot. :thumbup: Most of all, experiment and have a good time.

You could hold a scope up in front of the camera, mounted on a piece of black pipe and avoid the weight of the rifle.

Good luck with the project.

 

[Bifurcator]

Wow, I didn't realize that instead of buying my Canon IS/USM lenses for $1000 to $3000, I should just be picking up a $200 scope that's as good or better. :er:

LOL, of course they're manufactured for different purposes - I thought that was a given? But the optical quality of and average scope is on par with the optical quality of the average camera lens. A $1,000 scope's optical properties or optical quality if you will, is on par with a $1,000 camera lens - generally speaking.

Anyway, it's kind of a dumb side point I was making in rebut to someone saying that scopes weren't HQ enough to really consider taking a pic through. I was pointing out that indeed they are and some of scopes are even better quality than some camera lenses - which of course remains true. Rifle scopes obviously are not manufactured with the intention of attaching them to your camera body.

 

[table1349]

Something like photoshop might be the way to go. I did this in about 5 minutes from start to finish including getting the reticle and making a transparent gif out of it.

 

[Josh66]

I do have a few rifle scopes...

I just tried this to see if it would be doable.

There is no way in hell you're going to be able to shoot through the scope in the field (and see a deer in the crosshairs) without mounting the camera to the rifle, or the scope to the camera.

I would try to get a shot through the scope (hopefully with some tress or something in it), then get a seperate shot of the deer and merge them in PS.

 

[Corey123]

I'd use a zoom lens, and add the rest in photoshop. You can always use the blur tool on the subject, and have the site as a separate layer.

 

[KD5NRH]

There is no way in hell you're going to be able to shoot through the scope in the field (and see a deer in the crosshairs) without mounting the camera to the rifle, or the scope to the camera.

I wouldn't mount the camera to the rifle; that would be pointing a gun at something you don't intend to shoot. (well, with the gun, anyway)

Check with a gunsmith and see if he's got any junk stocks laying around that would work. Nearly any bolt-action rifle stock should work. It just needs to have the shoulder stock and enough forearm for you to mount a dummy action and hold on for aiming.

A 1" pipe in place of the action would give you a place to mount the scope, and you could drill straight up through the wrist to mount a 1/4x20 bolt for the camera to sit on. For this purpose, the scope doesn't have to be rock-steady against recoil like on an actual rifle, just stable enough that it wont be wobbling around while you're lining up.

Mount the pipe to the stock with screw-type hose clamps, and use a low-power air rifle or .22 scope to simplify matters greatly. The big costs in more expensive scopes are mostly for their ability to handle recoil forces, rather than significantly better optics. Just make sure it has a decent sized (40mm or larger if possible) objective lens (second number in the descriptor, try for a 2x40 or 3x40) to get enough light and put a flip-up cover on the objective to keep dust off.

 

[Bifurcator]

Yeah, same here. Unless I wanted it wider to include the scope mount and maybe parts of the barrel.

I would use a $50 bracket made just for this purpose that can position the camera in X, Y, and Z about 4 to 6 inches (depending on the bracket). I have one for P&S's and a 1000mm f/5 telescope somewhere around here. It would work for scopes too and kinda be like a lens extension - held, pointed along with the camera. But, I already said that I think... Hmm. Slaps self - must.. not.. repeat.. myself.. so often..

 

[KD5NRH]

One of the advantages of using the actual stock is that it would still look like a gun in the out-of-focus part of the shot. The barrel really shouldn't ever be within the FOV of the scope anyway, so you wouldn't want it in the photo.

 

[Dragonfly..shotz]

Hi all, i contacted a friend on an australian photography forum who has this shot in their avatar. With her permission I have linked it below. Thought it was very creative taken through a rifle scope of a sunset. It was taken with a point and shoot. Is this the effect you were after but with an animal? Al mentioned next time she took the shot she would clean the scope lol