around & about shooting raw

Thanks Larry. So I am to assume when its dusk, and I need flash or it's way too dark to get the kids playing that even in manual and shutter priority I am not capable of going over 200 and they are bound to end up blurry &/or if I don't use flash they will be much to dark.. got film them earlier in the day I guess!

As for these pics, shutter speed wasn't a problem but they were too noisy which according to these smart folks is because I underexposed which is either because it was too late in the day & I didn't adjust my settings or because I have no clue how to read the exposure.

Generally speaking, a flash will freeze action so you need not worry about that. If your photos are blurry with flash, you may have missed focus in the dim light since many auto-focus systems fail without good light and contrast.... or you had camera movement..

As to the second question.. It would depend on how your are "reading exposure".. Most photogs today don't really shoot "manually", they simply look at the exposure in the viewfinder and align the needle to the mark by turning the dial... Here again, if you want a certain shutter speed, say 1/500, in M, you set that first as a known... you then watch the meter until your adjustment of Aperture aligns to the proper exposure mark.. In Manual, the camera may not recognise your +.3 EC as that is a function of one of the automatic settings... you would need to align the exposure needle to +.3 when you are manually setting aperture..
 
Okay what I don't understand then is why does one need a fast shutter speed if flash will freeze motion for you?

I do about 50/50 between manual and auto focus. I don't know if it's me shaking or if it's missed focus, I just know there is blur and it happens most often when the kids are playing and it's around dusk time. So it must be something about this environment that causes me to blur my photos.

These ones being underexposed to me was shocking. They were VERY underexposed straight out of camera. I thought I bumped it up last night but now after hearing that comment I completely agree that they are still underexposed. I'm often scared about over exposing due to that being such a heavily used critique around here, so now I've gone and done the opposite.

Here is the original:

LionsOriginal (1 of 1) by lifebyme, on Flickr



Here is my edit to fix exposure after the critiques:

LionsExposed (1 of 1) by lifebyme, on Flickr

I often forget that my photos look darker on others monitors and print much darker than they appear. I feel like I push the brightness envelope but I think it's due to my monitor not being calibrated. I was surprised the first time I printed one out at how much darker it was, or rather underexposed, than compared to my on screen view.
 
Thanks Larry. So I am to assume when its dusk, and I need flash or it's way too dark to get the kids playing that even in manual and shutter priority I am not capable of going over 200 and they are bound to end up blurry &/or if I don't use flash they will be much to dark.. got film them earlier in the day I guess!

As for these pics, shutter speed wasn't a problem but they were too noisy which according to these smart folks is because I underexposed which is either because it was too late in the day & I didn't adjust my settings or because I have no clue how to read the exposure.

Generally speaking, a flash will freeze action so you need not worry about that. If your photos are blurry with flash, you may have missed focus in the dim light since many auto-focus systems fail without good light and contrast.... or you had camera movement..

As to the second question.. It would depend on how your are "reading exposure".. Most photogs today don't really shoot "manually", they simply look at the exposure in the viewfinder and align the needle to the mark by turning the dial... Here again, if you want a certain shutter speed, say 1/500, in M, you set that first as a known... you then watch the meter until your adjustment of Aperture aligns to the proper exposure mark.. In Manual, the camera may not recognise your +.3 EC as that is a function of one of the automatic settings... you would need to align the exposure needle to +.3 when you are manually setting aperture..

Beyond Ridiculous.
 
Okay what I don't understand then is why does one need a fast shutter speed if flash will freeze motion for you?

I do about 50/50 between manual and auto focus. I don't know if it's me shaking or if it's missed focus, I just know there is blur and it happens most often when the kids are playing and it's around dusk time. So it must be something about this environment that causes me to blur my photos.

These ones being underexposed to me was shocking. They were VERY underexposed straight out of camera. I thought I bumped it up last night but now after hearing that comment I completely agree that they are still underexposed. I'm often scared about over exposing due to that being such a heavily used critique around here, so now I've gone and done the opposite.

Here is the original:

LionsOriginal (1 of 1) by lifebyme, on Flickr



Here is my edit to fix exposure after the critiques:

LionsExposed (1 of 1) by lifebyme, on Flickr

I often forget that my photos look darker on others monitors and print much darker than they appear. I feel like I push the brightness envelope but I think it's due to my monitor not being calibrated. I was surprised the first time I printed one out at how much darker it was, or rather underexposed, than compared to my on screen view.

The reason is that shutter, ISO, and ap all work together. For instance, when I'm doing a bridal or whatever, I'm normally shooting (because I'm using lights) at 100 ISO, 125 SHUTTER, and 5.6 or above depending on the light.

Now, am I worried that I'm going to get blur if I shoot under that? The people are standing stock still. So no, I'm not worried about them going off and doing cartwheels. I just know that Shutter and ISO and Ap ALLLLLLL work together. One affects the other. If you need a certain ISO, then you will dial in the best AP and shutter for that. If you have someone moving fast and Shutter needs to be in charge, you dial in that. If you are in a dark room you use a higher ISO and then adjust the rest to work well with others. If you are in bigtime light, you switch over to the sunny 16.

Meanwhile, the couple is still stock still. I have to figure out my situation, and the light, and adjust from there.

Shadow, I've seen your talent. Please be careful about who you listen to.
 
Thanks Larry. So I am to assume when its dusk, and I need flash or it's way too dark to get the kids playing that even in manual and shutter priority I am not capable of going over 200 and they are bound to end up blurry &/or if I don't use flash they will be much to dark.. got film them earlier in the day I guess!

As for these pics, shutter speed wasn't a problem but they were too noisy which according to these smart folks is because I underexposed which is either because it was too late in the day & I didn't adjust my settings or because I have no clue how to read the exposure.

Generally speaking, a flash will freeze action so you need not worry about that. If your photos are blurry with flash, you may have missed focus in the dim light since many auto-focus systems fail without good light and contrast.... or you had camera movement..

As to the second question.. It would depend on how your are "reading exposure"..ally", they simply look at the exposure in the viewfinder and align the needle to the mark by turning the dial... Here again, if you want a certain shutter speed, say 1/500, in M, you set that first as a known... you then watch the meter until your adjustment of Aperture aligns to the proper exposure mark.. In Manual, the camera may not recognise your +.3 EC as that is a function of one of the automatic settings... you would need to align the exposure needle to +.3 when you are manually setting aperture..

Beyond Ridiculous.

Ok, this post is so crazy, that I have to respond further.

Generally speaking, a flash will freeze action so you need not worry about that. If your photos are blurry with flash, you may have missed focus in the dim light since many auto-focus systems fail without good light and contrast.... or you had camera movement..
Flash only freezes movement when the manual is set correctly. End of story. If the poster missed his focus, or had "bad light" , or had "camera movement, it is only an excuse. He does NOT know what he/she is doing.

"most photographers don't know how to shoot manual"
What the hell working photographers are that, I'd like to know. This is perhaps the most inform statement I've ever seen IN MY LIFE.

The rest is the poster prattering on about what LITTLE HE/SHE KNOWS about auto settings.
 
Thank you bennielou, I am trying very hard but there is a lot to take in. I wonder if the reason I have trouble with shutter speed is I just didn't realize that with my flash connected to my camera I can not raise it above 200. I think it threw me off. I lost balance.

I've been scared to raise iso because of noise. I raised it to 400 once and my photos were all very noisy.

When it comes to portraits, people not moving, I tend to get pretty sharp/non-noisy pics. So it's spur of the moment, people moving, type pics I am having trouble with.

Then these outdoor pics, I tried to find something to shoot and while an experienced photographer would do wonders with it, for me I was uninspired. I wanted to shoot people. They were there but I get nervous just aiming my camera at strangers. There was a couple eating chinese food on the big grand staircase and beyond them was the river, I wanted to shoot that but stuck with the building instead. I'm mumbling again..

Thanks to everyone for the advice/help!
 
Thanks Larry. So I am to assume when its dusk, and I need flash or it's way too dark to get the kids playing that even in manual and shutter priority I am not capable of going over 200 and they are bound to end up blurry &/or if I don't use flash they will be much to dark.. got film them earlier in the day I guess!

As for these pics, shutter speed wasn't a problem but they were too noisy which according to these smart folks is because I underexposed which is either because it was too late in the day & I didn't adjust my settings or because I have no clue how to read the exposure.

Generally speaking, a flash will freeze action so you need not worry about that. If your photos are blurry with flash, you may have missed focus in the dim light since many auto-focus systems fail without good light and contrast.... or you had camera movement..

As to the second question.. It would depend on how your are "reading exposure"..ally", they simply look at the exposure in the viewfinder and align the needle to the mark by turning the dial... Here again, if you want a certain shutter speed, say 1/500, in M, you set that first as a known... you then watch the meter until your adjustment of Aperture aligns to the proper exposure mark.. In Manual, the camera may not recognise your +.3 EC as that is a function of one of the automatic settings... you would need to align the exposure needle to +.3 when you are manually setting aperture..

Beyond Ridiculous.

Ok, this post is so crazy, that I have to respond further.

Generally speaking, a flash will freeze action so you need not worry about that. If your photos are blurry with flash, you may have missed focus in the dim light since many auto-focus systems fail without good light and contrast.... or you had camera movement..
Flash only freezes movement when the manual is set correctly. End of story. If the poster missed his focus, or had "bad light" , or had "camera movement, it is only an excuse. He does NOT know what he/she is doing.

"most photographers don't know how to shoot manual"
What the hell! EVERY working photographers knows how to shoot in manual mode.. This is perhaps the most inform statement I've ever seen IN MY LIFE.

The rest is the poster prattering on about what LITTLE HE/SHE KNOWS about auto settings.
 
Just thought I'd say I find #2 to be an pleasant shot to rest my eyes on. You captured really nice light. You might try to rotate it a degree or two clockwise to get the vertical of the rail post straighter.
 
Just thought I'd say I find #2 to be an pleasant shot to rest my eyes on. You captured really nice light. You might try to rotate it a degree or two clockwise to get the vertical of the rail post straighter.

Okay thank you, do you think it looks underexposed?
 
Yes, I know there is a lot to take in. That is why this is a profession. (if you want to do it right).

Ok, the reason why you couldn't go over 200 on your flash was because of a synch that the camera had built in. You should never be about 125-150 with an outside flash. You camera was telling you, "No, you can't do that!"

Still people are easy. Or at least they are easy now. Moving people are harder, but it's still super doable. When people are running around, you have to have a higher shutter. But 80-125 is usually good. Again, they are all synched to the ISO and the AP. If those things don't mesh, then it's all going to go down bad.

We all get nervous. I've shot over 500 weddings, and even more bridals, engagements, maternity, babies, whatever.............and I still get nervous. That is normal. That means you care. Just learn the other stuff.
 
Thanks, I think my nerves hinder me though. I have too much anxiety. I have a vision of who I want to be in a year from now with photography. I want to at least be able to go as a second shooter to a wedding, even just not being paid but for the experience value. I can't imagine having 500 weddings on a resume, amazing! It's good to know that even pro's still get nervous.

I have one more question though. When I am zoomed to 200 shouldn't my shutter speed also match that at least?
 
If your under exposing just get into the habit of checking your histogram when your setting up a shot. RAW will let you fudge the exposure a stop or two if you mess up in camera. Many of the RAW programs also have a noise reductions slider, so you can play with that to reduce initial noise (there is somethimes more because it isnt run through the in camera jpeg conversion).
 
No your shutter has to do with the light and what you have your ap and ISO set at. They all work together.
 
Okay in this book, and on various sites I've read, that your shutter speed has to be 1/focal length or faster.
 
My advice would to gain real world experience. Play with it.
 

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