Auto Bracketing - Nikon D80

phiya

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I was wondering if anyone could walk me through how to increase the number of steps on my Nikon D80 in Auto Bracketing mode. I understand how to change the amount each step varies with the one dial. The other dial seems to change either "on" "off" and then there are 3 options. One says 3F, one says --2F and one says +2F. Each of those options appear to have 3 different steps. I'd like to figure out how to go from -2f to +2f in 1f steps, so 5 total exposures without having to touch the camera in between exposures to adjust settings. Any help?
 
can a d80 do more than 3?
i know some cameras are limited to 3 shots in bracketing mode.

i would suggest the manual.
 
As Sr Biscuit suggest in manual mode you can exceed the limit.
Another way to increase the limit is to use smart wired remote trigger
for my case I used NKremote with a eeepc laptop I can shoot at much as 9aeb shots

I can't recall the name of a new device being sold that let's you do this now in a portable unit that looks no bigger than a cellphone if I find the device in my emails I will send you a private msg the device retails for $300

Ahh I found the device
https://www.promotesystems.com/products/Promote-Control.html
Now consult with the manufacturer about how many shots it let's you take

and this is what I use
http://www.breezesys.com/NKRemote/index.htm
 
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the promote system looks interesting but since i can do 9 exposure with aeb it so seems like a lot of money to spend. However, if my camera would only allow me to bracket 3 exposures, my mind might change quickly:lol: , your method with the computer would just add more equipment to my work load, do you find carrying around the computer with everything else a limitation ?.
 
the promote system looks interesting but since i can do 9 exposure with aeb it so seems like a lot of money to spend. However, if my camera would only allow me to bracket 3 exposures, my mind might change quickly:lol: , your method with the computer would just add more equipment to my work load, do you find carrying around the computer with everything else a limitation ?.

Ann the eeepc is so darn small and lightweight it's like carrying a book
it doesn't even have a cdrom/dvd drive bay it's perfect for travel and for what I need to create 360 panos and taking more shot's for hdr when needed. Most of my shot's have been 3 shot's

I have a photographers backpack where everything fits inside with room to spare so I carry everything around and with everything it's still lightweight it features air bags so nothing rubs against your back I guess it depends on the person's equipment what they want to carry around.

The nkremote software is awesome not just for hdr but for timelapse, astro photography it's trully amazing.

asus_eee_pc_4g_surf.jpg

Image coutesy of newegg.com copyrighted free use image for personal illustration.
 
thanks for the tip
 
Yeah I busted out my manual last night to see what I could find out. D80 is only capable of 3 exposures in AEB mode... I could do it manually but I'd be more comfortable touching the camera without really moving it once I get a better tripod. Those products are cool, but I think I'm going to hold off since my future plans are to upgrade my body and keep the D80 as a backup.
 
The D80 can only do 3, so I used to do 3 and then manually change the exp and do 3 more, just have to have steady hands
 
For taking bracketed shots manually would I just select "aperture priority mode" and then manually set the Fstop value for each shot?
 
YOU DON"T WANT TO CHANGE THE FSTOP with this technique. YOu need to be in aperture mode but you change the shutter speed, not the fstop
 
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Am I crazy? I thought the bracketing changed your Fstop value... typically -1, 0, +1 of the value set? To bracket manually you change the shutter speed? Please elaborate/explain if you can.
 
if your in aperture priority mode, the shutter speed changes and only that.

you have to maintain the same DOF

if your in shutter priority mode the aperture will change

there is also using manual metering, which you fix the fstop and change the shutter speed.

basically you cannot generate a meaningful HDR image from a group of images with a different depth of field
 
I'm new at understanding all of this, and even though I knew the fstop affected the DOF I never really thought about it like that. Is there a good rule of thumb on shutter speed to change approximately 1 fstop of light?
 
think about shutter speeds as stops.

it will depend on the lighting conditions.

i.e. f8 at 125, you want to do a -stop f8 at 250 , + a stop f8 at 60

shutter speeds work in the opposite direction of fstops. think an old fashion seesaw, the wider the fstop the faster the shutter speed has to be. the slower the shutter the fstop has to stop down,
 
So basically you're saying at F8 every time you either double or cut in half your shutter speed you are going -stop or +stop (-stop for faster speeds [higher number] and +stop for slower speeds). Does this work the same way at say F4?
 

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